www.iFourWinns.com

I've searched the threads and read the tales of changing out a strater on the merc 4.3.

I'm wondering if anyone knows first hand whether the 5.8L starter on a 238 vista can be changed in the same manner.

I've been told by some that the motor must be pulled to change it and my usual shop said they can't know without looking at it first... we are going to pick up the SELOC manual today http://www.iboats.com/OMC-Stern-Drives- ... _id.214932 to reaserch but I figured someone might have a quick yes/no answer.

I am going to go thru all connections and grounds with a muli-meter and most likely replace my battery cables just as cheap insurance but it is sounding more and more like a starter/solenoid issue. the boat is 16 years old so even if it is the solenoid I figure if the starter is original it might not be a bad plan to replace it anyhow...

anyone done this with the boat floating??????

_________________
I treat my children well because I want the good diapers when I'm old....

4 kids, 2 dogs, 2 horses, 4 acres, an amazing wife, a boat and no time....

It's easier to beg for forgiveness than to ask for permission.

I put a starter in my '88 OMC 4.3 a few years back...it was not too bad of a job...I removed the rear seats and the battery on that side and was able to get to it without too much trouble...that's a Chevy starter though the 5.8 is a Ford (distributor in front of engine, right?). If I recall right the Ford starters use a solenoid that is remote from the starter motor so it might be real easy to replace the solenoid first. And remember...there are 2 solenoids...one is called an assist solenoid...this is switched on by the ignition switch and then it energizes the starter solenoid itself...if either of theses solenoids are bad or has a bad ground or rusty connections the starter will not crank. So I'd first make sure current is getting to the assist solenid...and then jump the terminals and see if that cranks the engine...if it gets current at the yellow red wire from the switch (smallest of the 3 wires on the assist solenoid)...but the engine does not crank when you turn the key (does the solenoid click?) then I'd jump the 2 big connections (carefully or use a remote starter switch) and if it cranks then it's the assist solenoid...they are about 30 bucks to replace and are actaully the same as the tilt n trim solenoids...
If it still doesn't start then you can jump the big terminals on the starter soleniod itself...if it starts then it's the solenoid...

I got an MES stater for my 4.3 for about 150 from a local marine shop and it took me about 45 min (including removing the seats etc) to install it...

The Ford starter I am not familiar with, but on these jobs it's all a matter of how much room there is around the starter and if there is an engine stringer or part of the deck in the way...

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Thanks Lou....

I read the thread regarding your replacement and I hope mine (if I have to do the starter) goes as smooth.

Thanks for the info, I will check back in after some testing and update this thread.

_________________
I treat my children well because I want the good diapers when I'm old....

4 kids, 2 dogs, 2 horses, 4 acres, an amazing wife, a boat and no time....

It's easier to beg for forgiveness than to ask for permission.

Two bolts. If your shop even remotely thinks the motor may need to be pulled for this simple repair, run away. First, obtain the manual for your model engine and if needed buy a marine starter, not one from the AutoDump. Second, remove the wires from the solenoid and remove the two bolts at the starter base (where it attaches to the flywheel housing). I would then advise bench testing the starter or take to AutoDump and have them test it for you, but don't buy a starter from them. Marine starters cost a lot more than automotive and do the same job and since this is a boat repair you have to drop some cash just to keep things straight. Plus marine starters are sealed to prevent small scale explosions from occurring and blowing your engine hatch off...don't ask me how I know this. If starter tests bad, buy a starter and reverse process to install, go have fun. If starter checks out good...well then the saga begins. Double check all your terminal connections and clean them even if they appear okay.
What is the vintage and model of the engine/drive, i.e. 1995 SX, or Cobra, etc? PM me and I can send the shop manual for a Volvo/OMC 5.8L.

Trent
(Insert witty comment here)

Thank you Trent, I had hoped just what you told me.

We picked up the seloc manual today for it and I intend to learn it in and out.

The motor is a 1994 5.8L OMC cobra with a volvo/penta outdrive.

I think I'm gonna like it here....

_________________
I treat my children well because I want the good diapers when I'm old....

4 kids, 2 dogs, 2 horses, 4 acres, an amazing wife, a boat and no time....

It's easier to beg for forgiveness than to ask for permission.

i have a omc cobra 5.8 and I think I am having sim problems I turn the key to start it, it clicks once that's all it does I tried to cross the top solenoid nothing I tried crossing the solenoid that is on the starter and still nothing and my starter is 2 years old and only started 4 times since installed

Always start with the battery and cables first. If the batt is low or the cables are corroded where the they bolt to the starter or ground on the engine you can have that problem even if the starter and solenoid are perfect.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

ford starters are differnt from chevy, they bolt straight in towards aft not from bottem up like a chevy
4.3,5.0,5.7 chevys are all very simillar and much easier than a ford.

taking it out isnt so hard its holding in the hole properly to get your first bolt started.

2 bolts also just harder in my book;
Ford:


Chevy:


I have replaced one on a 96 Chris craft with twin 5.8s and it was the Port engine so i was working in a space between both engines about 7 inches wide

_________________
"Changes In Latitudes, Changes In Attitudes "

1996 238 Vista dlx "Casper's Toy Too"
2006 5.0GXI w/closed cooling, DP-sm 1.95 drive
Previous boat:
1998 Sundowner 205

For the Ford one, I'd just buy a long bolt, chop the head off ( maybe put a screwdriver slot in it) and use it to hang the starter on via the upper hole, whilst I screwed in the lower bolt hand tight. Then remove the long bolt/ stud and screw in the upper bolt . In fact, using 2 studs might be even easier, if space allows.

Your right Graham. Two studs installed and use nuts would be ideal

_________________
"Changes In Latitudes, Changes In Attitudes "

1996 238 Vista dlx "Casper's Toy Too"
2006 5.0GXI w/closed cooling, DP-sm 1.95 drive
Previous boat:
1998 Sundowner 205