www.iFourWinns.com

Hello all,


Does anyone have a step by step guide to replacing a impeller in a 5.7 GS? The boat is a 00 248 Vista.

Also looking for any tips on Spark Plug replacement. I ordered OEM replacement plugs but have never changed them before. Any gotcha's?



Thanks,

Haven't yet had to do it myself but I'm sure there are plenty here who have. I picked up the shop manuals with my boat so if someone doesn't recall the details such as torques or the like I can look it up later this evening. I have an 08 GXI but I seriously doubt there is going to be too much difference beyond access in the different hulls.

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2008 Four Winns 210 5.7 GI/SX
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 Crew
1966 Fed-Up Wife

I just changed my impeller last week on my 5.0L GXI. Not sure how much differnet yours is, but mine was pretty simple. Four small I think 10MM bolts to remove and the two hoses going to the impeller housing. Remove it and take over to you work bench and make sure you note direction of the fins on the old impeller to ensure proper install of the new one. Also make sure to lube the new impeller and o-ring seal with the lube that should come with it. I found the easiest way to get the new impeller into the housing was to lube it up good and sort of turn it in again making sure fins in correct direction. I also recently put new plugs in mine and this is pretty simple. No tricks to it. Just a straight forward plug swap. Assuming you have changed spark plugs before? If not I can give you a few tips just let me know.

_________________
1998 Baja Boss 252 7.4L MPI Bravo 1 (SOLD)
2007 FW H200SS 5.0GXI (Sold)
2004 Chevy Silverado 2500 Crew 6.0L (tow vehicle)
1991 FW 170 Freedom 4.3L (SOLD)

The standard plugs for that MY that will come in the VP boxes are Champion RS12YC. Later versions of the V8 use a plug with a longer service life, a lot more expensive, the number eludes me at the moment; the details are on a thread somewhere on this forum. I always put some colloidal nickel antiseize on the threads/ taper. Very easy to change the plugs with a 1/2" drive plug socket on the GM derived motors.

re the impellor; not the whole procedure, I recommend you get an official VP manual, but some hints:

No need to remove the hoses unless access is really tight.

The retaining bracket you (and I) have attaches to the block with 2 bolts which I found to be a PITA to get at/ remove/ replace on my Sundowners. I split my brackets in half so I never need to undo/ refit those bolts again! You can't use the later bracket, which doesn't need those bolts removed, without changing the pump; expensive!

Replace the 4 brass screws that fix the pump housing to the backplate with stainless cap heads and washers; M5 or the direct equivalent UNF thread. Make sure they are not too long. Far easier to remove and replace. Keep a few as spares on board in case you need to do an emergency impellor change, when some screws are bound to get lost in the bilge. Use a little antiseize on the threads, as they are dissimilar metal to the pump body ( a precaution only, they shouldn't see any water)

Change the O ring at the same time, use glycerine as a lubricant to the O ring and impellor; usually included in the VP kit.

I find it easiest to fit the impellor in the housing first, the vanes pointing in the right direction( I've heard the will flip over anyway if incorrect, it's just as easy to put them in right). Then jiggle the housing around until it locates on the pump shaft splines ( I also put some glycerine on that)

Graham

Thanks for the responses so far. Never replaced spark plugs before, but I'm determined to learn how to do this stuff myself.



Thanks everyone

I recommend you buy yourself a 3/8" or 1/2" drive plug socket, often included in even the most basic socket sets, rather than using one of those plug spanner things with a T-handle. Much less chance of snapping the ceramic bit. In particular when you're removing a plug, support the extension shaft with your other hand; it prevents "snatch" and breakages, When replacing them, initially use just the socket and extension; it help prevent cross threading, the plugs should screw in virtually all the way without the handle being needed. Then use a torque wrench. Expense to begin with, but I bought mine 33 years ago, so they last a long time! Oh, you'll also need some feeler gauges to make sure the plug gap is correct.

Graham

Graham R

Could you explain what you mean by splitting the bracket? I use a 8mm socket on a nut driver handle to remove the brass screws. No problem.

_________________
Inboard, outboard, onboard never bored
KUT 'N LOOSE
'99 258 VISTA

The Volvo impeller I can't comment on (I'm running an OMC Cobra) but the one I took out of my Cobra last week looked new after 2 seasons in salt water.

As far as the plug change, here are a couple of things to make it easier.
1) get a can of compressed air, and blow out any dirt that may be in the spark plug wells BEFORE removing the plugs.
2) put a light coat of marine grease on the threads of the plugs before installing
3) Thread them in by hand, gently, with just the plug socket and an extension
4) If you don't have a torque wrench, plugs with taper seats are tightened 1/16 of a turn past snug wth the ratchet to seat em, plugs with gaskets, 1/2 turn to seat the gasket.
5) put some dielectric grease in the boot of the spark plug to keep the boot from fusing on the plug, makes next time's job easier.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

re splitting the bracket; both my engines had limited access from the front and both also had VP aftermarket fresh water cooling. On the first, the heat exchanger was vertical on the starboard side of the engine; it made access to those bolts whilst trying to hold the bracket in the right place very difficult. The second ( current one) has a horizontal heat exchanger mounted high up; it also limits access from above/ front. The only way to access those bolts is from the starboard side reaching forward and inwards, the bracket shields them very effectively, especially as I can only get my right arm/ hand in there!

I've never had to change an impellor in panic mode whilst on the water; I wanted to make it as easy as possible should it ever be needed. The bracket is basically split half way down, with a steel bar attached to the bit that is block mounted. That bar, which is the same thickness as the bracket, has two 6mm stainless dowels and two M8 studs, which locate in the other half of the bracket. To remove that half I just need to remove two locknuts, which are easily accesible and can be done with a ring spanner or standard socket, I took off the bracket, mounted the new plate, dowels and studs then cut the original bracket, so the alignment at the pump is just as it was before it was modified.

Graham

A question out of couriosity and sort of off topic. I hear a lot about the possibility of changing the impeller in an emergency on the water. Has anyone here ever had to do that? If so what caused it? I just changed my impeller after 4 years mostly because of the horror stories of what could happen and it looked like new. Granted I boat in lakes and don't even have 50 hours yet but I could not tell the difference between the old and new. Just wondering what could prompt an emergency replacement and how you would now you needed to.

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2005 Four Winns Horizon 200

I imagine the first indication would be a smell of burning rubber or smoke from the exhausts due to lack of water cooling down the exhaust gases. A regular change of impellor should minimise the chance of failure due to wear and tear, but manufacturing defects can still play an effect; e.g. voids in the rubber, failure of the bond between the rubber and the inner metal sleeve. If it's going to happen to me in my boating atea, it's guaranteed to be when I'm in a tidal flow upwards of 5- 6 knots, so I'd need to fix it quick! I keep everything I'd need to change one in a dedicated airtight box, so there'd be no searching around for tools etc.

Graham

Just another tip for you on changing the plugs. Before pulling the wires off give them a few twists back and forth. This helps free them up and pull off without damaging them. Also make sure you pull on the boot and not the wire itself. Pulling on just the wire could damage it.

_________________
1998 Baja Boss 252 7.4L MPI Bravo 1 (SOLD)
2007 FW H200SS 5.0GXI (Sold)
2004 Chevy Silverado 2500 Crew 6.0L (tow vehicle)
1991 FW 170 Freedom 4.3L (SOLD)