www.iFourWinns.com

How long should it take to register a temp reading on the gauge? Took a quick spin around the lake yesterday and it never budged from 100 degrees (lowest reading), it also didn't move the first time out...although we didn't run it long that day either.

I'm more than likely going to have it checked out, but was curious if I ran it on muffs how long it should take to get up to proper temps. The first time I fired it up, I had it run long enough to where warm water was coming out from the exhaust, does this mean anything?

Any other pointers on where to check, I'm thinking gauge or sender...

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-Rob.


Current boat: 2011 Yamaha AR210
Previous boat: 1998 Horizon RX 4.3GL SX

Your thermostat might be stuck open. Could be a cheap fix, if you haven't changed it in the past few years I'd go ahead and change it out.

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2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

If you have an infrared thermometer take a reading on the exhaust manifolds and compare it with your temp guage that should give you a ball park reading when the boat in warm or should be. Also it depends on the lake temperature as to how long it will take to warm your boat up.

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2001 328 Vista "Nauta Dream 2"
AB Inflatable 10AL "Little Dreamer"
2000 248 Vista
1997 225 Sundowner


Mike

Agreed with above...
Mine is typically "at temp" (175F) by the time I reach the no-wake bouys from the ramp, so within about 5 min from start-up. Your boat is more than 10 yrs old... go ahead and replace the T-stat... easy job to do, and likely the issue. Could be corrosion, or blockage keeping it open.... No biggie, and I'd say it's due.

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

it can take 15 min or so to see a normal temp reading on the gauge which is about 160* or so and if you have a sticky thermo what will happen is that the engine will get to at most 120 idling and may get up to 160 but only when on plane and then it will cool down when you slow down...it is often a piece of rust that keeps the stat from closing so if you take a good long run you may flush it out. But if not then replace the stat...

I have not had any trouble with either the gauge or sender and my boat is 22 years old but I've had to change the thermostat at least 3 times over the past 8 seasons...if you have a Volvo you remove the thermo housing turn it over and you'll see the stat...a rubber ring holds it in the housing but you often can't see it because of rust that cakes round it...scrape it out with a small screwdriver and work the ring out...replace the stat and put in a new ring...I re-assemble and put OMC gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket and on the threads of the bolts...makes the next removal easy...

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Thanks for the replies, I'll start with a new thermostat and see where that gets me. This is our fourth year with the boat and I know I haven't replaced it, so now is as good a time as any.

I did a full lap around the lake @ 3800 RPM and the temp never broke 110, but I guess 58 degree water would cool it off pretty fast.

_________________
-Rob.


Current boat: 2011 Yamaha AR210
Previous boat: 1998 Horizon RX 4.3GL SX

The problem was coming from a bad sender, however the thermostat was original, so that is being replaced also.

_________________
-Rob.


Current boat: 2011 Yamaha AR210
Previous boat: 1998 Horizon RX 4.3GL SX