I think you're making the right decision.....the 2 reasons why I let the shop do parts of my resto were:
1) Safety...I did not want to take a chance that my wood/glass work was less than adequately strong, this boat goes in big water in and around Long Island Sound...
2) Safety again...working with 'glass and resin is potentially hazardous. The dust can be bad for your lungs and the resins are toxic to an extent. I will do smaller scale 'glass repairs that don't involve a lot of grinding but a deck is a big area to do, as is a transom....
Here's a tip, when you get the boat back...make sure that the opening for the outdrive is glassed in completely, all the wood sealed, and also the mounting holes, there should not be any raw wood anywhere. When you reinstall the engine mounts, the lag bolts should be bedded in with 3M 4200 to keep out the moisture. If you do the deck too...seal every single screw that goes into it with 4200. That's what I did on mine...and make sure when you reinstall the transom mount that you use a new seal and its in there the right way....I'd probably use 4200 around the bolt holes for sure and maybe even on the seal it self. The rot starts with water intrusion into raw wood...if you keep it out the boat can last forever...and fresh water rots wood much faster than salt. I had a rotted deck from rain water but my transom is still OK...(salt water...)
Lastly if you don't have one invest in a good cover, I had a bow and cockpit cover made back in 03 when I started redoing my interior and it has kept the inside like new since it was all done 3 years ago. When the boat's on the mooring all season the inside stays dry and the deck is never wet....in the off season I have a custom canvas cover that I made supports for to keep the snow from caving it in...again keep out the water....as much as you can...
BTW here is a link to some of the pix of my resto on iboats...the post is #7...
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php ... light=deck