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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 2:08 pm 
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Embarrasingly enough for me to say, Ive always had somebody else winterize my boat engine (Ive done all of the maintenance myself though). This will be my first year doing it myself and Im already getting nervous about it so I need some reassurance.

I plan on using the -60F (purple) anti-freeze.

Can somebody give me a step-by-step on how to winterize the 5.7l engine (its a 1991 OMC if that matters but I think they are generally all the same)if I were to do it by backfilling through the hoses on the front of the motor?

I figured I'd drain the block & manifolds, loosen the big water hose on the front of the motor (to let it drain). Then what?

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1997 Four Winns Vista 278
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Kohler 4esz Genset
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 2:13 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 16, 2006 9:49 am
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Winterizing a boat engine (I/O) is pretty generic. Not so specific to brand, displacement etc. Please just try a search, there are dozens of posts that explain how each person does it for their boat. Choose the one that you are most comfortable with. Or just ask firecadet. :roll:

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 8:19 pm 
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You remove all the drain plugs and probe them with a long wood screw or piece of coat hanger wire to make sure it drains..
Disconnect the raw water intake hose at the thermo housing and point it down in the bilge to make sure it drains. If there is a power steering cooler in line with this hose, doing this will often drain the cooler too, but it depends on the angle of the cooler, so it's a good idea to remove the plug in the cooler to make sure it drained. Disconnect the big hose at the water pump end to drain...

Then when everything is drained, reconnect the big hose at the wp end and disconnect it at the thermo end. Then pour some -100 in the hose till it comes out the block drains. Put some marine grease on the threads of the plugs and replace em. Then continue filling till AF appears at the thermo neck. Then reconnect the hose to the thermo neck. Do the same with the manifolds, disconnect the water hoses at the thermo housing, put a funnel in the hose, pour some AF in till it comes out the drain. You can see the AF push the water out. Then grease the plugs, replace and fill em till it spills out the exhaust. Reconnect those hoses. Then take the raw water intake hose and fill it with AF till it runs out the drive water intakes. OMC says in the manual to crank the engine for a second to make sure AF gets into the impeller housing. That's it for the engine. My standard Cobra has 3 plugs in the pivot housing that have to removed (2 are drains, one a vent) to drain a small amount of water. I don't know if your model has these but you can check the diagrams on dougrussel.com to check for sure.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 9:45 am 
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Location: Lake St. Clair, Michigan
LouC wrote:
You remove all the drain plugs and probe them with a long wood screw or piece of coat hanger wire to make sure it drains..
Disconnect the raw water intake hose at the thermo housing and point it down in the bilge to make sure it drains. If there is a power steering cooler in line with this hose, doing this will often drain the cooler too, but it depends on the angle of the cooler, so it's a good idea to remove the plug in the cooler to make sure it drained. Disconnect the big hose at the water pump end to drain...

Then when everything is drained, reconnect the big hose at the wp end and disconnect it at the thermo end. Then pour some -100 in the hose till it comes out the block drains. Put some marine grease on the threads of the plugs and replace em. Then continue filling till AF appears at the thermo neck. Then reconnect the hose to the thermo neck. Do the same with the manifolds, disconnect the water hoses at the thermo housing, put a funnel in the hose, pour some AF in till it comes out the drain. You can see the AF push the water out. Then grease the plugs, replace and fill em till it spills out the exhaust. Reconnect those hoses. Then take the raw water intake hose and fill it with AF till it runs out the drive water intakes. OMC says in the manual to crank the engine for a second to make sure AF gets into the impeller housing. That's it for the engine. My standard Cobra has 3 plugs in the pivot housing that have to removed (2 are drains, one a vent) to drain a small amount of water. I don't know if your model has these but you can check the diagrams on dougrussel.com to check for sure.


Thanks so much for the explanation :D

I feel much more confident now and will print this out to use while I winterize the engine.

I have a 91 King Cobra (cone clutch) so Im not sure if I have the drain plugs but I will definitely double check.

Thanks again!! 8)

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1997 Four Winns Vista 278
T - 4.3l EFI
Kohler 4esz Genset
379 hours as of 8/8/21


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 9:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 28, 2009 7:42 am
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LouC wrote:
You remove all the drain plugs and probe them with a long wood screw or piece of coat hanger wire to make sure it drains..
If there is a power steering cooler in line with this hose, doing this will often drain the cooler too, but it depends on the angle of the cooler, so it's a good idea to remove the plug in the cooler to make sure it drained.


+ 1
I'd guess you probably do have drain plugs (petcocks) on the block (1 on each side), Also the manifolds (normally) have a drain on them too. On my 5.7 there is 2 small (capped) hoses on the back of the exhaust manifolds that make draining them (totally) somewhat easier.

I had my boat very Bow high (good idea) when I drained it. I forgot to drain the power steering cooler so I wound up buying a new one this year (word to the wise....take the time to drain the ps cooler).

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 3:31 pm 
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Location: Lake St. Clair, Michigan
SeaBoo wrote:
+ 1
I'd guess you probably do have drain plugs (petcocks) on the block (1 on each side), Also the manifolds (normally) have a drain on them too. On my 5.7 there is 2 small (capped) hoses on the back of the exhaust manifolds that make draining them (totally) somewhat easier.

I had my boat very Bow high (good idea) when I drained it. I forgot to drain the power steering cooler so I wound up buying a new one this year (word to the wise....take the time to drain the ps cooler).


Ok the block and manifold drain plugs Im aware of...

However, Ive never drained a power steering cooler in any of my boats :shock:

I now plan on doing this:

1.) Start engine up on muffs and run 10-15 minutes until temp reaches 170f or so.

2.) Turn engine off, remove muffs. Drain manifolds & block

3.) Hook up winterizing kit with 5 gallons of -60f Purple marine anti-freeze that I bought from West Marine. Restart engine.

4.) Run all 5 gallons through the engine. Have helper tell me when Im on the last gallon so I can fog the engine and stall it out before it sucks air out of the winterizing kit.

Ive already changed the engine oil yesterday. The drive fluid has water in it so Im waiting for my marine mechanic to come remove the outdrive and replace whatever seal(s) is bad.

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1997 Four Winns Vista 278
T - 4.3l EFI
Kohler 4esz Genset
379 hours as of 8/8/21


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 4:09 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
Please listen to me...do it the easy way....drain...backfill through the hoses...if for some reason your impeller does not pull in the AF it will burn up the impeller and overheat the engine...and no need to time the fogging to be done before you run out of AF...that 5 gallons will get sucked in pretty fast...

About the PS cooler, I do not know where it is on your engine but on many OMCs and Volvos its on the back of the engine, probably hard to get at...I used to take off the raw water intake hose, point it down in the bilge...and then take the drain plug out of the cooler (yes many of have plugs) but the water always drained from the cooler by draining the hose....take a look at
http://www.dougrussell.com
look at the parts diagrams for your engine and see where the cooler is. I do know if it freezes they are not that cheap to replace...


edit...curious...I had to see where it was....here you go...
http://www.dougrussell.com/partscatalog ... 50,951,952


looks like you can just drain hose part # 32.....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 16, 2010 1:40 pm 
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Location: Lake St. Clair, Michigan
Ok so this is what happened....

I had a winterizing kit that I borrowed from Partnership, here on IFourwinns - he uses it on his FW Vista with the 5.7l and has since he bought the boat in 2001. My plan was to try that first to see if I was comfortable with it. Turns out....

I ran the engine on the garden hose & muffs until it was good & hot (15 minutes). I then turned off the engine. I opened the block drains & drained the manifolds. I pulled the big fat hose off the t-stat housing, and pointed it downwards, draining what was left in the water pump into the bilge.

I then proceeded to close all the block drain plugs and plug the manifolds back up. I hooked up the winterizing kit and fired her up!! Bad news: for some reason it wouldnt suck in the antifreeze. So I shut her down.

I then took the manifold hoses off the t-stat housing and backfilled with antifreeze until I heard it come out of the outdrive, outside of the boat. I took the big fat hose off again, and backfilled that with antifreeze. I pulled the power steering cooler line off and drained that (very little came out - is that normal?!).


I do not feel confident at all that I did this properly. Should I not have closed the petcocks and manifold drains before I added anti-freeze? OR did I get all of the water out when I drained them initially?

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1997 Four Winns Vista 278
T - 4.3l EFI
Kohler 4esz Genset
379 hours as of 8/8/21


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 16, 2010 6:01 pm 
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Technologic80 wrote:
Ok so this is what happened....

I had a winterizing kit that I borrowed from Partnership, here on IFourwinns - he uses it on his FW Vista with the 5.7l and has since he bought the boat in 2001. My plan was to try that first to see if I was comfortable with it. Turns out....

Ya DIDN'T listen to me!!

I ran the engine on the garden hose & muffs until it was good & hot (15 minutes).

Mine takes longer than that to warm up...the only way to tell for sure is not the temp gauge, but to feel the top of the thermo housing, if it's cool the thermo ain't open, if it's hot it is, letting hot water out of the block....
This is reason #1 why I don't recommend this method....but you drained the block so that's handled....

I then turned off the engine. I opened the block drains & drained the manifolds. I pulled the big fat hose off the t-stat housing, and pointed it downwards, draining what was left in the water pump into the bilge.

This part was OK....but that big hose drains better, if you pull off the BOTTOM of it,,,,

I then proceeded to close all the block drain plugs and plug the manifolds back up. I hooked up the winterizing kit and fired her up!! Bad news: for some reason it wouldnt suck in the antifreeze. So I shut her down.

the for some reason part is.....an impeller is designed to pull in water. Antifreeze has a greater specific gravity than water, in fact that's how antifreeze hydrometers work....and unless your impeller was in perfect condition, and the muffs fit perfect, the gravity feed method of AF use may not work.
This is reason #2 why I don't like this method...esp bad on Volvos and Bravos because the raw water pump is all the way up on the engine and they can't pull a more dense fluid up all that way...

I then took the manifold hoses off the t-stat housing and backfilled with antifreeze until I heard it come out of the outdrive, outside of the boat.
That's OK

I took the big fat hose off again, and backfilled that with antifreeze.
Did you see AF come out at the neck of the thermo housing...that way you know the engine is full

I pulled the power steering cooler line off and drained that (very little came out - is that normal?!).
Sometimes depending on the angle of the engine, that hose may partly drain out drive water intakes...but I like to fill it with AF till it comes out the intakes after draining to be sure...


I do not feel confident at all that I did this properly. Should I not have closed the petcocks and manifold drains before I added anti-freeze? OR did I get all of the water out when I drained them initially?


I like to leave the pet cocks out and start backfilling the manifolds and block till I see the last of the water pushed out...
But what you can do is open a block drain and let the AF fill a small paper cup. Put this in the freezer and if it stays liquid it's OK., same with the manifolds....

You will have a LOT less trouble if you do it my way...no worries about the impeller not pulling in AF...no worries about the impeller running hot (BTW you need to put in a new one next spring)...and no worries about getting it fogged before the AF runs out.

Those winterizing kits....are really only good....for engines with closed cooling...and even then...not needed...you can still burn an impeller with them as you found out....

I took the one I bought...and turned it in to a flusher for my trailer brakes...and I also use it to winterize my pressure washer (I added a livewell pump to it to pressurize the water or AF that I put in)......

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 16, 2010 7:58 pm 
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Lou, nothing personal but I really didnt want to go removing hoses and stuff off of the engine. The winterizing kit worked for Dave for years on his 5.7, and he recommended it for me.

In the meantime, I read your mind this time :D and put a cup of the anti-freeze in the freezer. I took it out 3-4 hours later and sure enough - it was slush. BUT the -60f anti-freeze I bought said it provides burst protection at -60f and freeze protection to +7f degrees. Im thinking it performed as it was designed?

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1997 Four Winns Vista 278
T - 4.3l EFI
Kohler 4esz Genset
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 16, 2010 9:52 pm 
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Most likely it is...that's how that stuff is supposed to work...slush but not expand...I like overkill...so I use the more expensive -100 stuff that stays liquid way down to -60 or so...that way...even if every last bit of water does not drain...I don't have to worry no matter how cold it gets (gets to zero here sometimes, probably colder where you are...)

Anyway I tried that kit the first year, and what happened was that the engine did pull in the AF without a problem, but even though the temp gauge was telling me 160 the stat wasn't completely open (first time winterizing 8 years ago...hadn't figured out that when the top of the thermo housing gets hot, that it's open). See with raw water cooled engines in salt water its common for the thermostats to stick open a little and then the engine takes a long time to come up to temp if it ever does on the water hose on a cool fall day...
So I did the sample the drains thing and what came out was rusty water. I just drained it and backfilled it...then I realized....this is not hard...why bother doing it the other way..since for that way to really work...you have to pull the engine drains ANYWAY....pulling off the hoses is no big deal...and here's an added tip...put a little wheelbearing grease around the neck of whatever the hose is on...keeps it from getting stuck on there....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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