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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 2:04 pm 
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firecadet613 wrote:
Cap'n Morgan wrote:
Cheapest one you can find, that extracts through the dipstick is all you will ever need. Unless you engage in regular bar room conversations that demand justification that your Moeller is bigger and better than a lesser model. 8)


Did we just find something we agree on? :mrgreen:


Not really, we agreed on two things now.
1.) The Oil Pump
2.) The Detroit Lions suck ! :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 3:05 pm 
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I think I agree about the vacuum pump, but I'll probably never be persuaded that real beer has to be ice cold !

Graham


Last edited by Graham R on Wed Sep 02, 2009 4:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 3:10 pm 
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Cap'n Morgan wrote:
Cheapest one you can find, that extracts through the dipstick is all you will ever need. Unless you engage in regular bar room conversations that demand justification that your Moeller is bigger and better than a lesser model. 8)
I disagree, I had the cheap ones and its like working out at two-a-days in football camp to get the oil out. With the Moeller 3 pumps and your done.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 4:16 pm 
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I don't find the exertion required to use the cheaper Pela particulary demanding. It's not as if the volume of the chamber that needs to be put under sub-atmospheric pressure is huge. I guess rather than using arm power, an electric pump evacuating a vacuum cylinder is the least physical effort option (apart from the effort of signing the cheque when paying someone else to do it !)

Graham


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 4:51 pm 
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When i'm pumping 14 qts per engine it is a work out with a cheap pump.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 6:18 pm 
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Graham R wrote:
I think I agree about the vacuum pump, but I'll probably never be persuaded that real beer has to be ice cold !

Graham


I concur, but you dont want to be drinking Guinness all day out on the river....crappy American(Belgian) beer is the ticket and definately needs to be cold.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 1:03 am 
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Graham - beer must always be icey cold! Cellar temperature does not cut it :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 5:02 am 
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it's a Cardinal Sin to have British hand pulled real ale ice cold ! Fizzy lager beers, that's a different story.

Graham


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 5:17 am 
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14 quarts of oil per boat engine, that's about 13.3 litres, what engines are they? I can well imagine now why you'd want to use the easiest solution! (14 quarts of oil per change, you probably spent more on oil each season than I've spent on fuel this awful Summer!)

Graham


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 6:00 am 
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Graham R wrote:
14 quarts of oil per boat engine, that's about 13.3 litres, what engines are they?

:mrgreen:
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:00 am 
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Twin 340's with coolers, plus 7 qt's in the genset.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 10:57 am 
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Apologies, I misunderstood and though all that oil was in one engine!

Graham


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 8:01 pm 
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ht32bsx115 wrote:
WyliePirate wrote:
How does that pan drain work exactly? Is it left on engine permenently or?


The pan drain plug is removed and the hose is connected permanently. Then you can put the other end of the hose anywhere you want. Mercruiser uses one that can be pulled out the bilge drain so you can gravity-drain your oil too. I don't really like that idea because it requires you to "crawl" under your engine and reach in there to stuff it through the bilge drain. It just lays in the bilge. That's a messy operation all by itself.

I used an ADEL clamp and clamped it directly to my port riser. When I want to change the oil I just connect the Moeller vacuum pump to the hose and pump it about 15 times. Hot or cold the oil is out in a couple of minutes.

It came with a couple of different plastic tubes that you would presumably stuff down the dipstick tube but that's a pretty messy operation too. You usually end up flinging oil around and you have this tube that you have clean off. The way I'm doing it there's no mess at all. The only source of a drip might be the hose you use from the pump to the tube when you disconnect it after you're done. If you let it sit a few min before you remove it most or all the residual oil drains out of the hose enough so that any drip is easily caught with a rag. I just use simple brass fittings to connect it together.

It works REALLY well and since you are connected to the pan drain you get it all out.

The hose comes with a cap that goes over the end but I don't worry about it leaking because the capped end is up so high.


On my 2005, 268 when I pull the bilge plug it has a stainless cable attached to it, other end of the cable is attached to the 1/4" pipe plug in the end of the drain hose connected to the oil pan. Works good.


9BALL

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 10:12 pm 
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On my 2005, 268 when I pull the bilge plug it has a stainless cable attached to it, other end of the cable is attached to the 1/4" pipe plug in the end of the drain hose connected to the oil pan. Works good. 9BALL


I can't do that with mine.

I have a bilge drain that has a check-ball in it. Nothing comes thru it except water......in only one direction............If I forget to put the drain plug in, the check ball prevents the boat from sinking and me and my boat ending up on Youtube!!!! :shock: :shock: :shock:

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 2:31 am 
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Now that is a good idea; I'm surprised it's not standard fit on all boats. Not so much for people forgetting to put the plug in, but in case the plug vibrates loose and falls out.

Graham


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