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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 1:19 am 
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Tom H wrote:
I have obtained a copy of Volvo Penta's oficial "laying up" guide from the Volvo stand at the Southampton boat show.

It says on AF in the engine "Leave the liquid in the system, it provides good protection against freezing and corrosion"

It also gives instructions as to how to suck it into the engine.

I ran the engine for about 20 minutes on a continous circulation of 20 litres of 50/50 mix untill good and hot (2/3 way from cold to hot on the guage and steaming liquid coming out of the engine.

Is that enough to protect me for winter or am I getting paranoid and going to lie awake at night listening for the sound of a cracking block?

thanks



If yours is a "closed cooled" engine, you're fine with what you did.

If it's a "Raw" water cooled engine and you started with 50:50 anti-freeze, You'll need to determine how much fresh water was in the block and add that to the 50:50 you started with and figure that you no longer have 50:50 sitting in the block (since you mixed with the 50:50 you started with)

Since the water in the block of a raw cooled engine doesn't completely circulate out it's hard to say what concentration you have unless you get an anti-freeze tester and measure it to be sure.

Below is the freeze-protection capability of both ethylene and propylene glycol mixes.

(I'm going to assume that you're using non-toxic propylene glycol)
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/propy ... d_363.html

Here it is for ethylene glycol too in case you're using it...
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ethyl ... d_146.html


The main point to consider here is that you do not get perfect mixing when you start out with 50:50 and mix it in an engine where the thermostat doesn't open very much at idle (because the engine is not producing a lot of power and hence doesn't produce a large heat load. In addition, the circulating pump doesn't move a lot of water at idle. So it's at least plausible that you might not get perfect mixing and then have possibly some areas in the engine that are 30:70 or less....

If you look at the chart above for Propylene glycol, a 30:70 mix will "slush" at only 7*F and 30% ethylene at 2*F

If you live someplace that sees temps well below zero....like say, -20F, both the propylene and ethylene glycols will be frozen at the 40% level.


You might be at 40% (or less! :shock: )if you started with a block full of clear water and THEN used a 50:50 mix to circulate.......


The answer? with a RAW water cooled engine, If you insist on using anti-freeze to "winterize" your block and manifolds, drain them FIRST!


Cheers,


Rick

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1987 Four Winns Liberator 211, formerly OMC 460 King Kobra powered, replaced in 2006 by a 1997 Mercruiser 454/Bravo III


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 7:11 am 
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IF you want to be on the safe side...drain a little of what's in the block into a paper cup and put it in the freezer...if it stays liquid you're OK if not drain it again and fill the block and heads through the big hose on the thermo housing (pull off the bottom end to drain...then re-connect the bottom end...and pull off the top end and fill it from there...till AF comes out the thermo housing...)
I don't like the suck it up the drive as I have said because of the problems with the thermo not opening...with closed cooling it can work fine...with raw water cooling you can have a big problem...it's a little more work to remove the drain plugs and probe em to make sure it really drains...but well worth it...because you know the water's all out...and then you can fill it with -100 to reduce corrosion over the winter...

Keep in mind.....to winterize against freezing you drain
to winterize against corrosion...you use antifreeze (only if it has corrosion inhibitors and is for engine sysetems...AFTER ALL THE WATER IS OUT....)

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2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 12:20 pm 
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Seahorse

Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2009 12:36 pm
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Thanks guys

We dont get as cold as you guys, we very rarely go below -10C (15F) here and I intend to use the boat sometimes in the winter (we do get days at +16C(61f) in the "winter" so I am happy, I'll get it good and hot after each use and run AF through again. Hey maybe even fit a closed system.

oil filter is a b****rd to get to isn't it? :x

Tom

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1999 225 Sundowner


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 5:30 pm 
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Location: Chester, UK
Tom,

Re the oil filter; yes, a real pain to get to on a 1999 Sundowner, but not of you fit a remote oil filter kit; I did, highly recommended!

Graham


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 7:42 pm 
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Location: Adelaide South Australia
LouC wrote:
to winterize against corrosion...you use antifreeze (only if it has corrosion inhibitors and is for engine sysetems...AFTER ALL THE WATER IS OUT....)

Winterizing doesn't apply here in Australia, but I have a question, is it better corrosion wise to drain the manifold and the block or leave whatever water in there?? The boat is used every two to four weeks.
thanks in advance

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 3:36 am 
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If it's salt water, you're better off flushing it out with fresh water, or using something like Neutrasalt. Salt water is pretty corrosive, even when the oxygen in the water is used up.

Graham


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 1:54 am 
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Graham the boat is used in fresh water only, just weighing up the pros and cons of draining the block and the manifold

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 11:57 am 
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When the water in there is "fresh" fresh water, there dissolved oxygen and you tend to get the normal rust coloured corrosion prouct. As the oxygen gets depleted, the corrosion process slows down and the product changes to give a more black type material (magnetite, Fe3O4), much as occurs in domestic heating system radiators. The overall build up of solids in the engine should be less if it's drained each time, but if it's used every couple of weeks, I can't see it making much difference, it'd get flushed out on a regular basis.

Graham


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:18 am 
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Tom H wrote:
Thanks guys

We dont get as cold as you guys, we very rarely go below -10C (15F) here and I intend to use the boat sometimes in the winter (we do get days at +16C(61f) in the "winter" so I am happy, I'll get it good and hot after each use and run AF through again. Hey maybe even fit a closed system.

oil filter is a b****rd to get to isn't it? :x

Tom

As far as running the AF through it...as was noted in some previous posts....on a raw water cooled engine that can result in an engine with a very diluted AF/water mix because if the thermostat does not open fully it will not let the water out...unless you drain the block first...and to me if you're going to drain it anyway...why use AF that way...also...somtimes on an engine with a Volvo or Merc Bravo system...because the AF is denser than water...the engine mounted impeller (if a little weak) may not pull in the Af and then the engine can overheat and burn up the impeller...all of which will make your day of winterizing not fun...I say just drain and be done with it....

The oil filter...yep is a pain...in my boat I have to remove the rear bench seat....push the battery on that side all the way back...and then put a cushion down on the deck next to the engine so I can lie next to the engine to get at the filter...I'd consider fitting a remote mount but you want to use a marine system not one for an auto application....

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4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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