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So what do ya do?
Use that kit from West Marine 5%  5%  [ 2 ]
Makeshift kit (explain) 10%  10%  [ 4 ]
Just drain the engine and call it a day 15%  15%  [ 6 ]
Drain the engine and follow with anti-freeze 15%  15%  [ 6 ]
Drain the engine and fill with anti-freeze NOT using a kit 37%  37%  [ 15 ]
I use a bilge heater 2%  2%  [ 1 ]
I dont know! My marina or mechanic takes care of it. I just write the check, baby. 17%  17%  [ 7 ]
Dont drain anything. Hey, I live in the tropics! 0%  0%  [ 0 ]
I dont own a boat. I am an automaton sent here to destroy the earth. 0%  0%  [ 0 ]
Total votes : 41
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2014 5:09 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
zims1993 wrote:
LouC wrote:
zims1993 wrote:
This was my first year of winterizing and after reading thru the shop manuals and several posts here (thanks Lou C, your answers on the replies were helpfull) I did the full drain and refill manually with -100 AF. Local marina wanted $400 to just winterize and fog engine. I was tempted to suck it up as some due but my boat takes forever to warm up enough on the muffs to open the tstat. It was a pain to do, but I did get nearly 4 gallons of AF into the engine. Filled the block thru the big hose from the tstat to engine water pump, took 2 gallons, then filled both manifolds and the hose from the raw water pump thru the power steering cooler which took another gallon or so. I think I will go back and make sure that block is full to the tstat housing as I quit filling the big hose when it got to where it was just full enough to put on the tstat housing. Also changed the outdrive oil, engine oil, and fuel filter/water sep.


If your engine takes a long time to warm up on the water hose (like more than 15-20 min) I bet its not closing all the way, probably because of a little piece of rust keeping it from closing. You can try this trick when you run the boat in the water next year:
Get a small hammer and take with you on the boat. Run the boat up on plane long enough so that the engine temp is at least 160-165. Slow down and bring it to idle, before it starts to cool off take the hammer and tap lightly around the thermostat housing. This can loosen rust flakes and allow the stat to close. I have had this problem over and over here in salt. Even replaced stats only to have it again. Tested them and found that the stat itself was OK but if a big enough chunk of rust gets in there it has a hard time being flushed out.



I will more then likely just replace the Tstat next year along with a few hoses as I think alot of these items are original from 1993. The boat only had 87 hours put on it in the last 11 years after the first engnie was replaced due to a winterizing issue, and we put 50 on it this year. Needless to say that it has had some minor issues to work thru from not being ran all that much. According to my temp gage the temp will never go over 150.


Well sure I'd say you're due for a new one. The 160 stat will usually make it run at 160 most of the time except when you come off plane it will rise to about 175 for a few minutes and then cool off back to 160.

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2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2014 5:13 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
hutch9900 wrote:
NiagaraChillin wrote:
No one is mentioning one of the most important parts of winterizing. Drive removal. It is a recommended annual task for VP. Bellows, U-Joints shaft, seals, gimble need to be inspected annually.

This is a springtime chore for me. Hate taking that thing off!

While its an extra thing to do, it is better to take it off in the fall because if there are problems you can take care of them then, right after all the shops finish their winterizing rush. Instead of finding water in the bellows and/or a leaky input shaft seal in the spring. I usually pull the drive off the weekend after I winterize, I prefer not to do all of that in one day. I leave mine in the garage also. This way if you find water in the bellows, or water in the gear oil you can take care of it over the winter and be ready to go in the spring. I will even paint the drive if I get a warm day in the winter, with it off its easier to paint the transom mount and trim rams and the anti fouling paint dries pretty fast.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 8:48 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 31, 2010 3:23 pm
Posts: 715
Location: Michigan
hutch9900 wrote:
JeffLW wrote:
Technologic80 wrote:
I agree! Thats a great price for winterization you've got there and it assures you will be covered.

Where in Michigan are you located?


Charlevoix.

It would be $200 with the oil change but I do that myself.

That is still a great price! I only spend about $70 to do it myself, but I spend a lot more time then what it is worth for that kind of money. I hate changing the drive lube and doing the engine oil myself. places around here want around $350+ for what you described!!


See what I get for bragging. :( Just got the call the boat is done and the bill is $250.
Can't remember if I told them I already changed the oil and filter.
There was some extra labor for investigating why I had to top off the drive lube twice this summer.
Still better than doing it myself.

This big $$ bill is coming in the spring when I have them replace the bellows, shift cable, and trim senders. :cry:

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