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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:46 am 
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cdig wrote:
Well, I don't have good news to report... While i was able to get it to fire up if I keep putting gas in the carb (I suspect the fuel pump is shot), after running it like that for a minute I checked the oil and found alot of water on the dipstick again. I think it's time to admit defeat and pull the engine for further investigation.


I guess I should read the rest of the thread first. Take the last few lines and go from there. I would pull it and see what you have.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 9:44 am 
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Sting Ray

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Thanks jv :)

I've got a tractor I can pull the engine with. Goin to have to wait for a couple months while I get the yard cleaned up and winterized tho. Thanks everyone for the encouragement and ideas. I'll be back!

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 6:23 pm 
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Sting Ray

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Well I'm back... I've pulled the intake manifold, and discovered that I have a large crack in the underside. So what are the possible causes of a cracked intake manifold? I'm thinking my cheapest/easiest course of action is to replace the intake manifold and try it again to see if it's leaking water anywhere else? I know it's not the 'best' way, but I'd rather not rebuild the whole engine if I don't have to...

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 6:33 pm 
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Sting Ray

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 8:48 pm 
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Location: Titusville, Florida
Oooohhh. That doesn't look good, but hopefully the freeze damage is limited to the manifold. While you have it apart do a very thorough inspection for other cracks in the block and anywhere else you can. As an engine block cools the water will start to freeze at the block surfaces of the water jacket and then eventually throughout the water passages. This causes a tendency to seal off sections of the cooling system at smaller passages and the freezing water may cause more than one crack.

Also, I'd recommend doing what you can to verify whether any corrosion exists on critical areas such as the cam and lifters. A replacement intake manifold shouldn't be too hard to find, and some will recommend going to an aftermarket "performance" manifold such as Edlebrock, etc.

Best of luck!

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 9:08 pm 
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Sting Ray

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So you're saying there's no other possible cause for this kind of damage to the intake manifold?

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 9:32 pm 
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The crack on the bottom side of the intake manifold looks like it was caused by a freeze up. I would say that you are lucky if there are no other block or exhaust manifold cracks. Here's hoping for luck.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 3:43 pm 
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Location: West Palm Beach, FL
cdig wrote:
So you're saying there's no other possible cause for this kind of damage to the intake manifold?


If there is a water passageway in line with this crack, then it must have been a freeze up. If there is no waterway there, then it was not a freeze up?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 5:57 pm 
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LouC wrote:
Even if from Tx, still could have frozen, all it takes is one night @ 28*F for 6-8 hrs. Boat US insurance did a survey and found most frozen engines claims came from Cali believe it or not, not up north. Freeze damage look for cracks in the lifter valley, intake, sides of block and manifolds. On the block and manifolds the crack will look like a hairline crack with rust trails.

You gonna run this a while or flip it? If you re keeping it I vote for a new GM crate 4.3. I'm not a gambler I have been wrenching for 40 years and I HATE fixing old crap and chasing problems. Fix it once and right and boat in safety.


When mine needs new power it's a new crate engine, closed cooling.


closed cooling?

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 12:31 am 
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Sting Ray

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Surface Interval wrote:
The crack on the bottom side of the intake manifold looks like it was caused by a freeze up. I would say that you are lucky if there are no other block or exhaust manifold cracks. Here's hoping for luck.


Well Surface, I'm out of luck. LouC called it...lifter valley shows where the REAL problem is... If you look real hard at the first pic, you can see a sad face....

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Lessons learned:
1. If the deal is too good to be true, it probably is.
2. NEVER BUY BOAT SIGHT UNSEEN...
3. NEVER BUY BOAT SIGHT UNSEEN...
4. Rinse/Repeat.

So my options are:
1. buy a used 4.3L truck/car long block and swap over marine cam, and what else? (upon carefully inspecting donor parts first of course). Should set me back $1000 after all is said and done.
2. buy reman 4.3L off of eBay? With my intake cracked, I'm likely looking at buying a whole engine top to bottom... currently going for $3200-3800USD.
3. try to round up a used marine 4.3L locally. Not in great abundance around here, so not sure on that option.

Ideas? thoughts? Pretty sure all the JB weld in Canadian Tire isn't going to help this engine now.

C.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 9:09 am 
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The 4.3 engines installed in boats vary in power depending on carb (2 or 4barrel, or type of fuel injection). I believe that some versions may have other differences like roller cam lifters, roller rocker arms, and different size heads and ports. I'd recommend that you find out which version you have. Getting a replacement with more power would be good, but less power would likely be a disappointment. Depending on the condition of the boat and your preference you may want a new motor, or maybe just a short block and intake manifold if the heads and exhaust manifolds are OK.

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Current boat: '02 FW 268 Vista
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 12:03 pm 
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Location: West Palm Beach, FL
cdig wrote:
So my options are:
1. buy a used 4.3L truck/car long block and swap over marine cam, and what else? (upon carefully inspecting donor parts first of course). Should set me back $1000 after all is said and done.
2. buy reman 4.3L off of eBay? With my intake cracked, I'm likely looking at buying a whole engine top to bottom... currently going for $3200-3800USD.
3. try to round up a used marine 4.3L locally. Not in great abundance around here, so not sure on that option.
C.

If you choose option #2, I would check the companies reviews & reputation. I know of at least one engine builder (that uses multiple names) that has a horrible reputation including sending the wrong engine or no engine at all.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 12:27 pm 
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Sting Ray

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I'm actually thinking option #1 ATM. 'Bondo' over on iBoats.com says you don't actually need to swap any of the internals over. I'm thinkin since this boat will never see salt water, head gaskets and frost plugs should be fine as is. Not sure how much cam will make a diff, but that's easy to change after if its a real problem. I have a line on a decent 4.3L out of a 2003 S10 Chev truck for $500 complete. Swap on a new carb intake and the externals and I'm under $1000.

Wondering tho, how hard would it be to leave it as EFI? If I can get the ECM and harness from the guy?!

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 5:59 pm 
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You'll need an electric fuel pump that delivers the correct pressure, make sure the fuel injection system fits in the same area that the carburetor was, and use the marine starter, alternator, etc to eliminate fire hazard.

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Current boat: '02 FW 268 Vista
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 10:56 pm 
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Sting Ray

Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2012 9:05 am
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Can you tell me what the diff is on the starter and alternator? Why would the automotive version present a fire hazard?

Also, wondering if I would have a problem putting the spark arrestor back on the TBI throttle body? how does that thing work anyway?

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