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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 3:11 am 
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Clownfish

Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2012 9:13 pm
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Location: Illinois
So I have my build thread going in the sundowner section but I figured this is the proper place to discuss this portion on my build.

When I got this boat the original owner told me it was winterized before it sat in his yard for the next 10 yrs. now besides my other multitude of issues the motor would not crank over. So I got the tools out and tore apart the whole motor. Now I got down to the block and back 3 cylinders had minor water/rust on the starboard side and back 1 on port side. I put oil and let sit for 3 days( due to my work schedual) and when I got to get back into it the oil was at the same level as when I left it. Still siezd up even with a little tap of a hammer and a piece of wood on each cylinder head.

Now with me not really having a personal mechanic sense most work I have done myself but this is not getting into a area I have not tredded before and don't need some hot shot trying to take my hard earned money away for no reason. You guys think I can salvage this block crank? Or should I keep my eyes pealed for a complete drop in used replacement? All input is greatly appreciated thanks!


Ryan

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 8:33 am 
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Unless there is a crack and/or warping, any block can be salvaged (even seized ones). So it comes down to the age-old question, rebuild or new? With parts and labor rates being what they are today, I would get a crate engine. However, if you have a mechanic buddy, or can even do the labor intensive, grunt work yourself, you may be able to get away with a rebuild for less $$$...

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 8:43 am 
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If all you need is a chevy short block...a short block is just the rotating assembly, no heads, oil pans, accessories, anything... you can get one with warranty for a few hundred.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 6:33 pm 
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Location: Connecticut shore
don't get just any old short block--I mean an automotive short block.......a marine block has beefier bearings on the crankshaft

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 6:51 pm 
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No they don't.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2012 11:18 pm 
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Clownfish

Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2012 9:13 pm
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Location: Illinois
I haven't ever really heard of the blocks being any different in comparison to a car application.

Now with it possibly being able to be rebuilt sounds good to me for I'm on a tight budget with this as I am working on two other projects at the same time. I just wish I had a way of getting this motor out so I can tare it down myself. But am missing either a fork lift or hoist.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 8:16 am 
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Location: Kansas
Well sort of it the real answer. Usually not a "car" engine, but a "truck" engine would be closer to the answer. When companies wanted to cheap out, I have seen 2 bolt main with a cast crank, that would be a normal "car" engine. A 4 bolt main should be a "must" have for a boat. If you want it better, balance the rotating assembly and you have a better chance at "bullet Proof" as you can get.
You can get a Autozone or whatever truck crate motor and that will work just fine, but your warranty is no good from what I have seen if it's in a boat. :cry:

Now, there were and still are some parts that are "marine" only. Some of the intake manifolds were, in fact some racing applications with carbs prefer them and will order them new vs a car one. Different plane and flows better to the front ports.
An Edelbrock or other is still way better though. :idea:

Cam selection is probably the biggest thing. You only have 100's to choose from with small and big blocks. :shock: :?:

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 11:45 am 
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You will want to take block and heads to reputable machine shop if you chose rebuild option....block and heads need to be cleaned and inspected to ensure no cracks....it would be a shame to spend money and time only to see it spewing water into oil from I eternal crack when done.

The motors I've rebuit ...I've had machine shop rebuild heads...and prep the block after inspection...honestly though...going that deep into motor means alot of money and time....it would be different if you had knowledge of that motor but you don't.....it may have been parked because of knocking or spun bearing....then you find the crank is scored and trash.

Your safest and more likely cheapest route would be a crate marine motor of same size....think I paid around 1200 for my last one...comes with warranty..all that needed to be done was bolt on front motor parts, starter, Carb and exhausts...oh and oil pan too...if you half ass it you gamble on failure.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 1:46 pm 
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Mercruiser/VP are 2 bolt main blocks with cast cranks

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2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 7:00 pm 
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Clownfish

Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2012 9:13 pm
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Location: Illinois
Tx, you make a truly strong point as I don't want to have to ditching a twice. Rather have it done rite the first time. Where did you get your crate motor for $1200? That is a price that I can work with in my type budget.

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1988 for winns 235 Sundowner
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 9:24 pm 
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I went with First Mate Marine because of the longer warranty they had at time....2009. My mechanic recommended them cuz he used them many times without any probs. Another reputable company is Michigan Motorz.

Don't worry bout the 2 bolt vs 4 bolt crap unless your installing a blower or running nitrous.......99 percent of boats running gas are either merc ot Volvo penta for inboard/outboard setups.

They will have you check numbers or count bolts in the intake. You want a get the same as you have so Carb and exhaust match up....some rotate left and some right but they will help you on phone....oh, don't be shocked for a lady to be talking over your head in engine talk.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 9:36 pm 
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Its the only way to go if your not setup for rebuild....u will spend a fortune buying things you never will use again....hon....ing tool, ring compressor, pullers, getting bushings pressed blah blah blah.....that crate engine undergoes quality checks and is made by folks who do it daily...they stand behind their stuff...

Check the deck all over the boat to make sure your sound.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2012 2:55 am 
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Clownfish

Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2012 9:13 pm
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Location: Illinois
Well it looks like I now have a good road to take with this boat. Thanks all for your input

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Used to own- mint 1974 amf 235 slickcraft. One greatly missed boat


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2012 9:31 pm 
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As mentioned..make sure you check the deck on that boat for rot....under seats , storage areas, ski locker, and engine compartment. Know what your investing in before forking over the cash.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2012 11:43 pm 
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Clownfish

Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2012 9:13 pm
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Location: Illinois
Most deff I plan on it. Sense I'm replacing the carpet the center pieces I already replaced and carpet I wanted to replace anyways. I need to find some one to help me get the motor out some how so I can see how the mounts and engine Bay Area condition really is

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1988 for winns 235 Sundowner
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