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| Installing an inverter https://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1086 |
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| Author: | bunndc [ Tue Jul 10, 2007 3:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Installing an inverter |
I have purchased an inverter for my 240 horizon; changes DC to AC current. I would like to hard wire the inverter to my battery. Are there any special considerations I need for a "Marine electrical installation"? I know the correct guage of wire for the run, I will install an inline fuse with correct amperage for the load, and good clips for the connection to the battery and inverter. Any thing else? |
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| Author: | 1NiceHarley [ Tue Jul 10, 2007 10:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I would also install a fuse or circuit breaker on the output (AC) side also. Just incase water gets in the plug. IMO. |
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| Author: | 230 Mike [ Wed Jul 11, 2007 2:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
+1. |
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| Author: | mkperceptions [ Wed Jul 11, 2007 2:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
also tin the wires with solder it will help with corosion |
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| Author: | Jim_R [ Wed Jul 11, 2007 6:38 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Don't know if it's practical on a boat, but GFCI is always good when AC is anywhere near water. |
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| Author: | Double Trouble [ Wed Jul 11, 2007 7:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
If you do decide to hardwire in the inverter solder the joints and heat shrink those splice's. make sure that you are also groundfault protected. |
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| Author: | wkearney99 [ Fri Jul 13, 2007 7:04 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Actually, soldering isn't recommended in high-vibration situations like boats. The solder joint ends up being too brittle to accommodate the typical motion of the boat (engine, waves, etc). The result is a joint that fails and, worse yet, risks sparking. You're much better off crimping properly and sealing with heat shrink (or the liquid type). Just make sure you use marine rated materials. They'll be tinned or otherwise treated to help withstand the rigors of marine conditions. They'll be tinned during manufacturing, this isn't something you can 'add' in the field. For stranded wire this is very important. The tinning is done to the strands individually. So the wire remains flexible while also being more resistant to corrosion. If you're wiring the AC outlets permanently then you've got a whole bunch of other factors to consider. Like properly grounding them. I'm no marine AC wiring expert but from what little I do know you have to avoid getting the grounding wrong. Otherwise you risk dumping AC voltage to the water and GREATLY accelerating corrosion of anything metal in the water (like your outdrive and through hulls). Inverters generate a fair bit of heat, make sure your chosen location has GOOD ventilation. Do not use 'clips' to attach to your battery. There's enough stored power in the typical battery to blow up your boat. You do not want a clip popping lose to ruin your day/boat/life. If you're hard-wiring it use ring terminals; the closed circle kind. These won't slip off should the retaining nut or screw wiggle loose. Be SURE to use the appropriate gauge wire for the amperage involved AND the distance needed. Voltage drops as distance increases, and heats the wire in the process. It should be obvious but DO NOT forget to use appropriate switches, breakers and fuses. Bestboatwire.com and skycraftsurplus.com are two suppliers I've used recently for wire and terminals. Best prices around and both were quick to ship. |
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| Author: | wkearney99 [ Fri Jul 13, 2007 7:57 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
And here's a link to a pretty good article on wiring: http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-main ... rules.html |
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| Author: | bunndc [ Thu Jul 19, 2007 9:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
wkearny and all thank you for the information. I still have a bit of homework, but have a path forward. |
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