Seized and rusty

john55c · **Posted:** Wed Oct 10, 2012 7:15 pm

After looking over the engine on the 215 SD, it looks like we need to pull it and strip it down to clean everything. The engine is seized, which we knew when we bought it. Does anyone have any recommendations about good, reasonable places to buy a short block? Either reman or used. I looked at some websites locally, and it looks like around $2,000 or so was the cheapest I could find, which seems steep. We are located in Mass. Any suggestions or recommendations would be much appreciated!

jvthundercat · **Posted:** Thu Oct 11, 2012 3:54 am

2k for a chevy short block? A new one would be less......

DaleG · **Posted:** Thu Oct 11, 2012 3:34 pm

I am in the process currently of compiling similar information, dependent upon what I might find when I open up the lower end of my "overheated" engine.
These are the people I have been looking at.
MABBCO -- Tyler TX
Michigan Marine ---
Chicago Engines ---
Eagle Marine ---

I also have a local rebuilder I was talking to --- Atlantic Marine (there are several companies by that name here -- it is in Holywood FL)

All of these seem to be from 800-1000 for a reman shortblock -- and perhaps 1400-1900 for a reman longblock.
these prices are for a 5.7L --- Vortec -- center bolt rocker covers -- 8 bolt intake -- one piece rear main -- EFI (no drive for fuel pump) roller tappet, type engine
Your slightly older 5/7L should be a little less expensive and easier to find.

I also have talked to Rapido Marine -- another local source, but their better businees reviews are not very good. I was not impressed.

I have NO real experience with any of them.

thx
Dale

ric · **Posted:** Thu Oct 11, 2012 3:46 pm

If you just need a shortblock it doesn't have to be "marine" anything. It's just a chevy shortblock. Mercruiser/Volvo use standard 2 bolt main engines. Go get one for a few hundred.

jvthundercat · **Posted:** Thu Oct 11, 2012 9:04 pm

ric hit it one the head. The only possible difference would be the cam. If you get an RV or Truck torque type cam, or just swap one out on a long or short block. The only thing to watch for would be the bolt holes for mount accesories, on the front of the motor. Keep all your drains, etc. and put them back in after clean up. The only thing the word "Marine" will get you on a 88 chevy is bigger bill.

ric · **Posted:** Thu Oct 11, 2012 9:56 pm

The marine engines use very detuned cams, way more mild then anything in a street car. Do yourself a favor, drop a $100 and get a real good truck cam. Something rated for idle-5500 with real good torque. The mercruiser 350 MAG actually just uses the factory vortec car cam from chevy, every motor below it is detuned.

john55c · **Posted:** Fri Oct 12, 2012 10:37 pm

Sounds good, we stripped the block, and took everything off. Looks like the exhaust seal on the port side was missing, which let salt water up into the last 3 pistons on starboard side. We are going to pull the block tomorrow, and see if we can get the pistons out. The engine was rebuilt 101 hours ago...hoping to be able to take out the cam and tap out the pistons and re-hone the cylinder walls...we will see over the weekend whether this is possible or not. If not, there are several trucks in the area with running 5.7s...redo the brass freeze plugs and do stainless steel gaskets, and we should be able to repower on the cheap.

john55c · **Posted:** Sun Oct 21, 2012 7:27 pm

Pulled the engine and pulled it apart down to the block, and we were able to get all the pistons out. No visible cracks in the block, although the cylinder wall on the piston that was stuck has some leftover residue. We honed it, and it feels OK to the touch, but we are going to take it to a machine shop to see if it is OK and for them to boil it to get all the junk out. The rest of the pistons are OK just need new rings. We will see what they say, but I am hoping its good to go and we can just clean everything and put it back together.

Winter Sux · **Posted:** Mon Oct 22, 2012 5:07 pm

Sorry to chime in so late on this one. Have you considered a GM Goodwrench? I've installed many of them. They're brand new in the crate with pan, balancer, rocker covers and timing cover. The 5.7's are 4 bolt mains as well. Very reasonably priced too.

John :mrgreen:

john55c · **Posted:** Wed Oct 24, 2012 8:09 pm

You mean ordering directly from GM?

Winter Sux · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2012 5:58 am

Yup. They're competitively priced to scoop business from the rebuilders. Brand new with full warranty.

John :mrgreen:

jvthundercat · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2012 6:29 pm

I just bought a Gen VI chevy 454 for 650 with injection, computer and all. It ran great and only had 47k miles on it. It only took two days worth of looking on craigslist. I don't need to go through it, but I will. Re-ring and bearings with gaskets another 174.00 at my favorite place. I can get pistons, cam, oil pump and all with a master kit for 654 if I want to go that way.

john55c · **Posted:** Wed Nov 21, 2012 10:59 pm

Winter Sux wrote:

Yup. They're competitively priced to scoop business from the rebuilders. Brand new with full warranty.

John :mrgreen:

Interesting, do you have a website you could share, or contact info for where I would go to look at pricing? The machine shop said the block needs to be bored, and they are concerned with the fit of the heads. We are going to bring over a new gasket for them to take a look at, but we may just bore it out and get new heads for it.

TX H210SS · **Joined:** Thu May 27, 2010 9:10 am **Posts:** 1488

Can't they shave the existing heads or are they saying they're beyond tolerance.

Canadiansrt · **Posted:** Sat Dec 01, 2012 5:27 am

Any progress updates?

www.iFourWinns.com

Seized and rusty

Who is online