www.iFourWinns.com

I started the engine today ( 5.7 GXi-F, from 2004), only to find a water leak in the region of the raw water pump. Being an optimist, I changed the O ring seal; no different. I don't think it has been going on long; there is no corrosion in the engine compartment, except on the pump pulley. launch date needs to be put back another 2 weeks I reckon, but better I found it now rather than once it was afloat.

So, it looks like the seal ( plus maybe the bearing) has failed. I don't fancy paying the USD 500+ UK prices for a new pump. ( If I import one from the US, the price won't be that much different at the end of the day, due to shipping cost plus import duty , then + 20% VAT based on the cost of the item+ duty + shipping etc)

I've found the seal for about USD 8 here. The bearing, if I can find one, can't be more than USD 15. I have to take the pump off anyhow even if I just need the seal. I gather ( from iBoats) that owners have sourced the bearing and made the repair, but there are no part numbers indicated.

Has anyone here successfully repaired this pump ? If so, does anyone have a reference to the required bearing ?

Also, another few questions:

What do I need to use to move the serpentine belt tensioner pulley to remove the belt? A socket/ breaker bar, in which case which size socket ? I have a full set of AF + metric sockets. Or is there a recess for a 1/2" drive extension or something else in it ?


What size hex driver do I need for the bolts holding the pump to the harmonic balancer ? They look like they might be 5/16", but I'm not sure; I do have a 5/16" hex driver ( heavy rain stopped play today, so I didn't measure the bolts head internal hex dimensions, plus they are painted !). I have loads of metric hex drivers, but not many other imperial ones of that sort of size. I can always grind down a metric one if needs be. Hopefully the bolts are not corroded too much in due to the salt water spray !

Yep, I succesfully "repaired" my leaky pump by installing a new seal. Saved a considerable amount doing so. A new pump is even expensive here ($230-$260), the seal was only $8. Can't help ya with the serpentine belt as I have the old school fanbelts. But, the one thing I can tell you, is that getting the old seal out of the pump is a son-of-a-gun, lots of scraping with a small flat tip screwdriver. Once you get it out, use some dish soap to get the new one to slide right into place.

I wouldn't worry about the bearing, unless you are absolutely sure it needs replacing (binding, squeeling, etc).

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1996 205 Sundowner DLX
5.0FL Volvo SX Cobra
Tow Veh: 2012 Nissan Frontier Pro-4X

Graham, I'm looking at the VP shop manual for that engine. Par for the course, it only goes as far as replacing the impeller & O-ring and doesn't even discuss removing the entire pump.

As to the serpentine belt - you'll be happy to learn that it is self-tensioning and requires no maintenance.

Sorry, I wish I could give you a reasonable answer to your reasonable questions.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Thanks for your replies.

The pump is now off, with very little blood on it ! Now on to removing the seal. The seal looks to have rust stains on it, presumably the tensioning spring has rusted away. The shaft turns in the bearing with no noise or roughness, so it looks like I caught it early enough.

Seal ordered, the post for it cost more than the seal but it should be with me tomorrow !

For reference:

The belt tensioner has a 3/8" square recess that a socket handle/ breaker bar can be inserted. to turn the pulley in a clockwise direction/ upwards to release the belt tension.

The 3 bolts holding the pump to the harmonic balancer actually need a 5/16" Allen key or driver. I thought initially they may have been smaller (9/32" ?: I don't have one of those !), but the paint on the insides of the hex recesses was causing the problem. ( I've edited my original post to reflect this and the fact that the drain plug is 5/16", not 3/8" as I originally wrote).

The spring was very rusty. Once that was removed, seal came out rather easily using an electrical screwdriver; I just pushed it in to the groove where the spring was and it levered out nicely.

Sweet! Glad yours went well, like I said earlier, I had to scrape the heck out of mine to get it to "pop" out. I am going to order a few more of those seals to have on hand, because they are getting scarce (OMC for me) and I don't want to buy a whole new water pump.

_________________

1996 205 Sundowner DLX
5.0FL Volvo SX Cobra
Tow Veh: 2012 Nissan Frontier Pro-4X

Seal changed, pump refitted and no leak !

So much money saved I put in a bid on Ebay and won a pair of new, genuine original VP riser kits (late type risers, gaskets and plugs). Got them for £182 delivered; about USD 290. Well pleased, less than the RRP for one here , excluding delivery .

Bow navigation light fixed ( corrosion and poor contact)

Bimini cover zips fixed.

I feel like I'm getting there, but lousy boating weather forecast for the next few weeks, looks like it'll be afloat this season for 3 months rather than the usual 6 months ( I suppose on the positive side, the anodes will do for next year as well !)