Time for a new Starter

rpengr · **Posted:** Tue Jun 16, 2015 12:46 pm

1999 Charcoal Grey VP 5.7GS (5.7GSPSWTR)
2000 Horizon 240 (1996-1999 style)

Well my starter is on the fritz, thanks to me submerging it in fresh water about 6 weeks ago (stupid plug didn't put itself in!)

1. My local VP parts dealer sells the ARCO brand NEW Marine Starter for $200.
2. MarinePartsExpress sells VP brand new starter for about $285, or Sierra for about $260.
3. I could work with a local rebuilder, but I like the idea of removing and replacing on the same day.

Any recommendations?

Anyone with 1996-1999 Horizon 240 that can tell me how much of a contortionist I am going to have to be?

Ray

GottWhat · **Posted:** Tue Jun 16, 2015 1:26 pm

OEM Part number is 3860764

How about this one for $80: http://smile.amazon.com/MARINE-STARTER- ... entries*=0

$140: http://www.iboats.com/Starter-18-5913-S ... _id.172192

Delco $130: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-DELCO-V ... 52&vxp=mtr

$51: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Starter-for ... 0593836350

I almost feel like buying the one for $51 just to have as a spare.

skidaddytn · **Joined:** Mon May 03, 2010 11:12 am **Posts:** 281

I changed one in my old 170 freedom with the upgraded 4.3 engine. It was tight in that compartment. However, it didn't take that long. Work fast if you can. The longer you stay upside down with feet in the air the more it hurts... lol

GottWhat · **Posted:** Tue Jun 16, 2015 1:39 pm

How much room is in the 240 engine compartment?

deafwish · **Posted:** Tue Jun 16, 2015 4:06 pm

Ha!
Worst job out of anything I've done on my Horizon!
Took an hour per bolt on mine... :cry:

GottWhat · **Posted:** Tue Jun 16, 2015 4:30 pm

deafwish wrote:

Ha!
Worst job out of anything I've done on my Horizon!
Took an hour per bolt on mine... :cry:

I hope for Ray's sake that the 240 has more clearance...

LouC · **Posted:** Tue Jun 16, 2015 6:15 pm

I've had mine out 3 times, I've got it down to about 20 min including removing the port side rear seat and wood bulkheads.
1st time...back in '07, original starter had so much resistance it made the batt cable smoke when starting it to winterize
Spring '08 put in a new MES starter. Was fine till a few years later when salt water dripped right on the solenoid terminals and rusted the solenoid. Got new starter # 2 (Sierra) and installed that. Got a new solenoid for starter #1,kept for spare. Had to re-terminate all wiring on the solenoid.
#2 was fine till July 2013 when that little cooling hose popped off and flooded the bilge with salt water.
Pulled it out put starter #1 back in, the MES I replaced the solenoid on. Still working fine.
I'd use Arco (just put in one of their alternators and like it), Sierra or MES....

Here's a tip, if you have a helper you can tie a line around the starter and have someone hold it up for you while you get the bolts started. It's a little hard to hold it up with one hand and get the bolts started with the other. Helps to have strong fore arms lol.

The bigger boats usually have enough room. Mine is easy.

PS turn off the batt switch before disconnecting wiring.

rpengr · **Posted:** Wed Jun 17, 2015 6:52 am

GottWhat wrote:

deafwish wrote:

Ha!
Worst job out of anything I've done on my Horizon!
Took an hour per bolt on mine... :cry:

I hope for Ray's sake that the 240 has more clearance...

Here's what it looks like with the rear seat removed:

...but I don't really want to remove the seat for this job, but I have a feeling that with the seat in...it would be a good job for a guy with no legs. I'll do like Lou did and use a helper and strap to help hold up the weight of the starter. I will also remove 1 or both batteries for room. Bolts and connectors will get TefGel when reinstalled, and starter will get sprayed with Boeshield T9. (two of my favorite products).

I found another option (#4) when I called a local starter/alternator company they said they have a new marine starter for $120. GottWhat: you found some great prices there, but $120 is low enough to have the convenience of picking it up local. I'll talk to this company again today and see what brand they sell. I'll report back later.

I haven't looked yet. Are these geared starters? or the old heavies? Which is preferred?

rpengr · **Posted:** Wed Jun 17, 2015 6:56 am

skidaddytn wrote:

I changed one in my old 170 freedom with the upgraded 4.3 engine. It was tight in that compartment. However, it didn't take that long. Work fast if you can. The longer you stay upside down with feet in the air the more it hurts... lol

The trick is... how do you get your feet to point up in the air, and your arms to point down in the bilge? Question 2: How do you get your elbows to bend both directions? I tried looking up http://www.contortionist.com ...turned out to be a porn site :oops:

Graham R · **Posted:** Wed Jun 17, 2015 7:04 am

Looking at that installation, it reminded me of the 1999 Sundowner I had; I'd forgotten how "enclosed" the rear of the engine is ( on my 2004 one, the engine was almost completely exposed).

To get easier access, I'd be tempted to remove the exhaust manifold and riser as an unit !.

rpengr · **Posted:** Wed Jun 17, 2015 7:58 am

GottWhat wrote:

OEM Part number is 3860764
How about this one for $80: http://smile.amazon.com/MARINE-STARTER- ... entries*=0
$51: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Starter-for ... 0593836350

Does "Marine coating" really make it a marine starter? That $80 one just says "marine coated" and shows a Delco Remi starter.
The $51 dollar starter is not even coated?

I used to run automotive starters in my previous boat, because the engine compartment was wide open on the sides (very well ventilated). I'm determined to get a proper marine starter for the Horizon, but what really makes it a marine starter? It looks like there are a lot of sellers out there selling standard auto starter as marine.

GottWhat · **Posted:** Wed Jun 17, 2015 8:32 am

Good questions, I do not know.

LouC · **Posted:** Wed Jun 17, 2015 10:07 am

Ray,
I would remove the rear seat, the ex manifold and battery. I think it's worth the extra time because there will be less contortion and pain afterwards lol...
There are the old heavy starters and the new lighter permenant magnet ones (lighter but many have plastic gears).
Your boat is wide open like mine but it may be that the deck is higher relative to the engine; I remove the battery on that side but don't need to remove the ex manifold...

rpengr · **Posted:** Wed Jun 17, 2015 1:25 pm

Well, I just picked one up from the local Starter and Alternator guy. $120 new. This is a company that we deal with often at my work, so I know they will take it back if there are any issues.

OMG, I can't believe how small these things are. It is the geared starter. Easy to hold with one hand. I think this is going to be much easier than the old heavy starters that were on my 1987 OMC.

For what it's worth: He said that the marine and auto starters are the same for the Chevy, except the marine is sealed better and coated. He said on the Ford, there is a Marine (UL) version because the Ford Starter was open to sparking. Sparking never was an issue with the Delco and there never was a UL version made.

I'll be installing this weekend.

GottWhat · **Posted:** Wed Jun 17, 2015 1:40 pm

rpengr wrote:

Well, I just picked one up from the local Starter and Alternator guy. $120 new. This is a company that we deal with often at my work, so I know they will take it back if there are any issues.

OMG, I can't believe how small these things are. It is the geared starter. Easy to hold with one hand. I think this is going to be much easier than the old heavy starters that were on my 1987 OMC.

For what it's worth: He said that the marine and auto starters are the same for the Chevy, except the marine is sealed better and coated. He said on the Ford, there is a Marine (UL) version because the Ford Starter was open to sparking. Sparking never was an issue with the Delco and there never was a UL version made.

I'll be installing this weekend.

That is good to know. So if in a pinch, an auto starter would be OK to use?

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Time for a new Starter

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