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Engine runs bad when warm... revisited
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Author:  ric [ Sat Sep 28, 2013 6:55 pm ]
Post subject:  Engine runs bad when warm... revisited

Well. All was good until last weekend after a rain storm. Wouldn't start for a good 15 minutes of trying, giving it gas, etc. When it did run it ran HORRIBLE.

Took a look at the dist. cap today. I think it's original cap/rotor/plugs/wires! Cleaned it, started right up and ran good for about 10-15 minutes then started it's whole hesitation, popping, etc thing again when warmed up. I'll give her a tune up in the morning.

Image

Author:  ric [ Sat Sep 28, 2013 7:49 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine runs bad when warm... revisited

I'm holding off on the carb this is ignition related. I can smell unburnt fuel. I read the thunderbolt modules go bad

Author:  rpengr [ Sat Sep 28, 2013 9:45 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine runs bad when warm... revisited

Ric, could there be additional moisture in the lower distributor. As it heats up it steams up to the cap and starts to cause problems again?

Author:  ric [ Sat Sep 28, 2013 9:56 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine runs bad when warm... revisited

Could. I reseated all the connections. Runs a tad rough but I just drove it across the lake to a buddies house party and its working. Def ignition related. I thought about unbolting the ICM from the exhaust manifold so it doesn't get warm.

Author:  ric [ Fri Oct 04, 2013 11:02 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine runs bad when warm... revisited

So far so good with new cap and rotor. Theory goes the bad rotor and cap were overheating the ignition module. Gave it a good workout yesterday not a single hiccup.

Author:  Winter Sux [ Fri Oct 04, 2013 1:38 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Engine runs bad when warm... revisited

I'm going with rpengr's theory. That added time you had the cap off to change it gave it more time to dry out. If you changed the plugs and wires as well, possibly they helped.

You see ric, the module is primary ignition and strictly on the 12 volt side . The cap and rotor as well as the coil, wires and plugs are secondary ignition with the coil turning 12 volts into high tension voltage. The module only sends a ground pulse signal to the ignition coil. The only component that would work harder to overcome high resistance in the cap and or rotor would be the ignition coil, NOT the module.

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