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PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 2:23 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 1:13 pm
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Location: Cheshire- England
Anyone got the correct instructions on how to set the timing on a 1997 5.7GLi TBI Engine

Cheers

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 7:57 pm 
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I've never had a Volvo but I think you have to put it in base timing mode so that there is no ignition advance occurring. Fun thing about my old boat is I can tune it up just like we tuned our ole school American cars back in the 70s. Set points, check with dwell meter, set timing, idle mixture and idle speed just like way back then, and the old technology works great with no $700 fuel pumps or $800 mystery modules. So read the Volvo manual and see what it says.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
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2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 12:08 am 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
Yeah Lou, or loosen the distributor bolt (9/16" I believe) and turn the distributor until it's smooth. :D Wrong way to do it, but we all did it.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 10:45 am 
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Yep I loved that GM Delco distributor with the little metal slide window you lifted up and adjusted the dwell with the engine running, quick and easy.
I have a Craftsman advance timing light so I can check for total advance (boat in the water running at 3000 rpm). The marine distributor has only centrifugal advance, not vacuum and centrifugal like cars did.
I still have that combination crowfoot wrench, one side was for Chevy engines the other for Fords. You're right Mike, 9/16ths for Chevy and 1/2" for Fords.
On the boat you have to be careful using it, because the pos. terminal for the assist solenoid and trim solenoid is right near where the wrench will be and can be a dead short to ground if the batt switch is on. Those really should have plastic caps on those studs.
I change the cap n rotor every other season (salt air) and I find that a set of points lasts about 5 seasons.
There are always threads on Iboats about people wanting to change to electronic and while I know its better in terms of maintenance, changing points is not a big deal. I am more concerned that the ESA system works right than having to change points. I'd have to change the module to make it work with a Delco EST which is what I'd change to if this dist wears out.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 1:17 pm 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
Heh, forgot about the crowfoot. I used to fight it with a long extension & u-joint on a ratchet, doing trial & error on getting the positioning just right and hoping the dangling u-joint wouldn't shift as I maneuvered it under the distributor (for that reason my u-joint is the one tool I never clean; it can help if it has a bunch of crud in it :-) )... Finally spent $2 on the wrench and thought I was living the high life. I must still have that around here somewhere...

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2005 Four Winns 230/240
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1998 F-150 XLT
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 1:46 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
My 18 year old and his friends are all learning how to drive now (he's got his license and I gave him my old '98 Grand Cherokee) and they all ask questions about anything I am fixing be it the vehicles or the boat; when I explain stuff to them it's like Merlin the Magician explaining arcane potions etc...they know all about video games & posting vids on U-Tube but basic mechanics is like a mystery to them....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 2:23 pm 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
At least they're interested. Most kids nowadays don't know, and don't care that they don't know. Their loss.

Of course now we're moving into an even newer generation where the parents don't know either...

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1998 F-150 XLT
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 2:29 pm 
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Yeah that's the lease a new vehicle every 2 years generation. Oh you mean you need to add oil to these things every now and then, well how about that. They're clueless and so are their offspring.
By the time I was 18 I was already doing oil changes, tune ups, brake jobs, etc. On our simple machines of the 70s. Still doing it now, even with not so simple machines. Most of it I taught myself, and have a collection of shop manuals to prove it.
I love it when guys post this on forums: anyone have a link on how to do ________ LOL....get a manual....read it....and learn. You Tube is good sometimes but sometimes its dead wrong information.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 10:20 pm 
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^^^ Some 'experts' on here frequently give wrong advice, based on nonsense they've read on-line!
Imagine some of the cr@p they could use from this forum! :lol: :roll: :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 10:20 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 5:10 pm
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Location: West Palm Beach, FL
230 Mike wrote:
Yeah Lou, or loosen the distributor bolt (9/16" I believe) and turn the distributor until it's smooth. :D Wrong way to do it, but we all did it.

LOL ... That's exactly what I did a year+ ago when I bought my Horizon (Carb model). It's been running perfect ever since, as long as it's on E10. My timing is a little too far advanced for straight gas.

I can relate a lot to everything on this thread (even though we haven't answered the OP's question). Starting around age 10, my brother and I would find 2 & 3 horsepower engines that people would throw away. We disassembled whole engines and carburators, and got them running again. By 17 or 18, we were changing the camshaft, adding headers and anti-sway bars to the 1970 skylark 350cid. I have rebuilt several old outboards, from 3 to 150 HP.

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 10:48 am 
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230 Mike wrote:
Heh, forgot about the crowfoot. I used to fight it with a long extension & u-joint on a ratchet, doing trial & error on getting the positioning just right and hoping the dangling u-joint wouldn't shift as I maneuvered it under the distributor (for that reason my u-joint is the one tool I never clean; it can help if it has a bunch of crud in it :-) )... Finally spent $2 on the wrench and thought I was living the high life. I must still have that around here somewhere...

That reminds me of the special wrench we had for adjusting Recirculating Ball Power Steering boxes. It was like a screwdriver through the middle of a socket wrench.

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 1:20 pm 
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230 Mike
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Joined: Mon May 15, 2006 7:59 pm
Posts: 5141
Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
I've long held to the principle that every DIY job deserves a new tool. It's a pretty good way to build up a collection, and there is no such thing as too many tools!

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2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 4:47 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 1:13 pm
Posts: 79
Location: Cheshire- England
Still no wiser ????

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Volvo Penta 5.7 GLI


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 5:12 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
If I had a Volvo manual I'd be able to tell you. You need to get a hold of one and read it...I'm sure its not hard. Do you have a timing light...if you don't you should get one.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 6:50 pm 
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Location: West Palm Beach, FL
Taza wrote:
Still no wiser ????

OK, looking through my SELOC manual for information for you. This is what I have come up with.

The specifications page lists your engine to have Ignition Timing: 8 BTDC
However this does not match the procedures for EST ignition shown below

The manual shows you have a "DI" Ignition System, which it describes as the same as an "Electronic Spark Timing - Distributor Ignition" System. Also describes as the same as "EST" ignition.

I cannot find any full timing procedure in the SELOC manual. EDIT: See my next post for the procedure.

Here are a couple You-Tube videos describing a procedure for EST ignition system. They describe a "base timing" of 1 BTDC (with the shunt installed). I do not know if this is right for your engine.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FWWrmr3ij70
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-swDhVcEdh0

So you are probably still no wiser without a Volvo Manual

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings


Last edited by rpengr on Sun Oct 20, 2013 7:46 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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