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 Post subject: Engine Heater Install
PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 10:15 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2012 11:17 pm
Posts: 1303
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Hi All,

I have just ordered a Wolverine Pad Heater for my 5.7GL:

http://www.wolverineheater.com/product-p/16.htm

They state that I need to put a 12" x 12" thermal barrier (like Dynamat) on my hull, to protect it from radiant heat from the pad.
Is this really mandatory, or is this an attempt at avoiding litigation from sunken boats?
I'd have around 8" of real estate under my sump, to the bilge floor.

Cheers.

_________________
2011 Four Winns H180 SS.
Aussie built Mustang 2800.
SOLD - 1997 Four Winns Horizon RS


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 12:08 am 
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Joined: Thu Feb 27, 2014 4:04 am
Posts: 219
Location: Melbourne Australia
Jees Mate, I know I complain about Melbourne winters but it is not that cold down here..... :shock: :lol:

Why don't you just use a piece of wood cut to size to stop the heat transfer to the Hull, or even a brick or two to absorb and radiate that heat?

My boat stays in my garage so unlikely to see freezing temps but I have used one of the tradies lead lights switched on under the sump before. Just enough heat to stop any freezing, but not a long term solution. We used this when camping for pre-season ski training and expected cold temps. The next morning the block felt warmer so it seemed to work ok.

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Mark
Melbourne
Australia

Boats:
Current: 2004 FW 190
2001 Mastercraft X5
1998 Malibu Response
1999 Sea Ray 180
17 ft Scimitar Barefoot (200hp Yamaha)
16ft Scimitar Ski (Yamaha 115)
1988 Ski Nautique ( Called Ski Antique)


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 2:46 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2012 11:17 pm
Posts: 1303
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Hi Mark,

As my sump is difficult to access, I'd rather just have a long term solution than mess about with bricks & wood.
Running a 25W oil in near freezing temp's on an engine with flat tappett hydraulic lifters is something that concerns me.
I also frequently do short trips & have recently had condensation issues with my oil.
This pad heater should also reduce condensation under my boat cover, too! 8)

_________________
2011 Four Winns H180 SS.
Aussie built Mustang 2800.
SOLD - 1997 Four Winns Horizon RS


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 12:37 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 5:10 pm
Posts: 2032
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
deafwish wrote:
Hi All,

I have just ordered a Wolverine Pad Heater for my 5.7GL:

It's 86 F today. What do you need that for? :D

_________________
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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 3:36 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2011 10:21 am
Posts: 5667
Location: Austin, TX
rpengr wrote:
deafwish wrote:
Hi All,

I have just ordered a Wolverine Pad Heater for my 5.7GL:

It's 86 F today. What do you need that for? :D


Did ya'll have a cold front down there?

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 4:45 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2012 11:17 pm
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
It's frequently in single digits, down here in Melbourne. :cry:

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2011 Four Winns H180 SS.
Aussie built Mustang 2800.
SOLD - 1997 Four Winns Horizon RS


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 7:43 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 5:10 pm
Posts: 2032
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
ric wrote:
rpengr wrote:
deafwish wrote:
Hi All,

I have just ordered a Wolverine Pad Heater for my 5.7GL:

It's 86 F today. What do you need that for? :D


Did ya'll have a cold front down there?

Yep, it was breaking into the 90's last weekend, but 80's are more common here close to the shoreline.

_________________
Image
"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 7:45 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 5:10 pm
Posts: 2032
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
deafwish wrote:
They state that I need to put a 12" x 12" thermal barrier (like Dynamat) on my hull, to protect it from radiant heat from the pad.
Is this really mandatory, or is this an attempt at avoiding litigation from sunken boats?
I'd have around 8" of real estate under my sump, to the bilge floor.

Cheers.

How about just laying an oil absorbing pad or 2 under there as a compromise?

_________________
Image
"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 11:02 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 05, 2013 10:34 am
Posts: 350
At only 250 watts spread out over that much area, I would guess they are only trying to cover their rear ends.
So, it warms the hull under the engine up? I imagine that would only be a good thing, giving some thermal mass to the whole system. I wonder how hot the thing actually gets?
Perhaps if you can stick it to the oil pan somehow, it will be even less of an issue for the hull.


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