www.iFourWinns.com

Well, I am a bit confused. I've read my boat owners and VP engine owners manuals and neither actually gives detailed instructions on how to properly winterize the boat in step by step instructions.

I called Four Winns direct and they told me that even though the engine manual is vague, they, (Four Winns) always as part of their winterization process, includes fogging the engine and running anti-freeze in the system in addition to the steps described in the VP manual.

I then called my local service tech ( a guy I think has been straight with me), and I explained what I was told by Four Winns. My tech said that I do not need to fog my engine, (I have the 5.7 VP with EFI) and that I did not need to run anti-freeze either. The tech said all I had to do was drain the water from the engine by removing the four brass drain plugs, open and drain the hoses, and fill the gas tank with a full tank of gas with the right amount of fuel stabilzer.

Does anyone out there know what the right answer is?? Fog, no fog...anti-freeze, no anti-freeze??? I have a 2006 220-H with the raw water intake system only.

I have tried contacting VP but it has been difficult reaching anyone there.

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2006, 220 Horizon
Kent, WA.
"Semper Fidelis"

Fogging, well it depends on the humidity and temp where you store the boat, if it was indoors, in a dry enviroment, it would not be that necessary because the cast iron wouldn't be that likely to rust. I do outdoor storage in a damp climate, and to me fogging is needed, although I don't fog any of my yard equipment that is kept in the garage and have never had a problem.
Antifreeze, well you will get a lot of opinions on that, many just drain and have never had a problem. BUT you must make sure you do it as it is outlined in the Volvo manual. I do use AF because I am in a salt water area and I think it has helped with corrosion protection (if you use the good stuff). I don't like the kits that suck up the antifreeze and run it thru the drive for 2 reasons, one it may not get thru the block/heads if the thermostat doesn't open all the way, and 2 with Volvos and Bravo drives, if the impeller is not in top shape it may not suck it up and will overheat the motor and burn up the impeller. This is because it is a long way from the water intakes on the drive to the impeller on the front of the engine and AF is more dense than regular water. Not as much as a problem with an Alpha or OMC Cobra since the impeller is in the drive.
I'd fog it for sure and drain if you are in a fresh water area, AF is optional.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I don't have to winterize, but I can not see where fogging will hurt. It's cheap enough and if you have the time and skill, why not?

P.S. Ask away with the questions, none are silly or dumb, we all rely on each other here for help all the time.

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Jvalich
http://www.badcock.com

'04 FW 288 Vista "Mental Floss"

I think the problem with fogging on EFI engines is the sensors. If you just spray the stuff into the intake flame arrestor it goes past a number of sensors. I'm guessing that's "not good" for the lifespan of said sensors. Were you to spray the stuff into the spark plug holes and manually turn over the engine I'm guessing it would be "less worse". You'd still be, eventually, sending the stuff out the exhaust and some engines have sensors on that side too (to say nothing of upcoming catalytic converters).

I'm inclined to pull the plugs and coat the cylinders manually instead of fogging the intake.

Or if not manually, by using the starter without a spark. Granted, detering a spark in an EFI engine that has coil packs is a little more difficult that just pulling the central plug on a distributor. Then there's the 'open spark' risk, so be ABSOLUTELY SURE there are no fuel vaoprs present!

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

Right, if your engine is anything other than MPI, you can fog through the spark arrestor. If MPI, fogging through the spark arrestor probably won't do immediate damage to anything, but it also will do no good as there isn't enough air flow to carry the oil into the cylinders. You'll just end up with a puddle of oil under your intake. The right way to fog an MPI is to remove the fuel/water separator, dump out half the fuel, fill back up with fogging oil, reinstall, and run the engine.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

law950, I think jvalich has a pretty good take on this. It really all depends on your peace of mind. If fogging oil costs a few bucks, and you can figure out how to pull the fuel/water separator per 230Mike's procedure, then why not do it?

Same thing on the antifreeze. If you asked 100 mechanics, you might get 50-50 or 60-40 but it really is all about what you want to do. Personally, I'd love to just drain the fluids and park it. But, I could never forgive myself if I just did that, didn't put any antifreeze in the system, and returned in April to a cracked block because a small amount of water was trapped somewhere and antifreeze would have replaced it if I had used it.

To me, it may be overkill but $50-75 (at most) plus an hour to fog and use antifreeze is well worth not having to spend thousands on a new engine. Having said all of that, my next door neighbor at my old house drained his engine, hoses, etc., jacked the trailer wheels up off the ground, and let it sit for 6 months in his driveway. Never had one problem, and it freezes quite often and for long periods here in KCMO.

It really is 6 one way, and a half-dozen the other. Which one makes you sleep more soundly at night? THAT is the one you choose. Good luck and, as stated above, ask all the questions you want. We're all here to help each other out with our personal experiences.

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Paul
2007 Four Winns Horizon 220
Mercruiser 350 Mag MPI w/ Bravo III Drive
2004 Ford Explorer Limited (V8-AWD)
Pomme de Terre Lake (Southwest Missouri)

Fogging- my vp engine workshop manual hu model engines says to fog carbed and TBI models, for injected models is says run engine with a 6 gallon storage mix of 5 gal gas, 4 pints fog oil, 1/3 cup fuel conditioner.
Then run the engine for 5 minutes. Not sure what one does with the remaining 4.8 gallons? EFI is not mentioned as HU engines were 90's models. The sensors might be a concern but fogging protects the cylinders and the valves. Did you email Four Winns? They are much more responsive than vp.
Antifreeze-most people store drained and dry. I use 50/50 auto antifreeze and drain and reuse next year. RV antifreeze has no rust inhibitors. Don't forget to probe the drains for blockages and drain the with the engine level. Don't trust running the AF thru the muffs as your thermostat may not open enough.

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'96 Horizon 200
"Have fenders...will raft"

Just a warning. I fogged 2 years by putting fogging oil in the fuel fliter and running the engine. Both times in the spring the engine would not start. The first year was under warranty they replaced the ECM and some other stuff. 2nd year I took it to a different shop and he was stumped until he thought about how I winterized and found the injectors pluged. The last 7 years I have not fogged it and have not had any problems. Think about it, we store cars and lawn equipment and never fog them. Although If I had a carb or TB I would fog it just for peice of mind.

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Inboard, outboard, onboard never bored
KUT 'N LOOSE
'99 258 VISTA

If I stored a car for 6+ months at a time I would fog it. Current VP manuals for MPI engines specify to fog via the fuel/water separator, so I'd say doing it any other way could theoretically cause warranty problems.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

so how much Af is needed, methods ? I usually just drain everything, so far so good.

thanks

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2006 FW 203 FS
2005 Dodge Laramie 1500
2003 CRF 247F SuperMoto racer
2001 CBR1100XX

Your manual should tell you the coolant capacity for your engine. Some fill by pulling the hoses off at the water pump housing and filling from there. Others like to get the engine up to temperature and then put it through "ears" on their outdrive and let the system cycle the AF through that way. If you do that, you need a tub or container of some kind to catch the AF coming out of the exhaust so that you can keep recirculating until you know the thermostat has opened and allowed the AF into the entire system.

I've also seen people just take their thermostat out during this process, and then put it back in when spring comes. That way, they don't have to guess as to whether the thermostat opened or not.

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Paul
2007 Four Winns Horizon 220
Mercruiser 350 Mag MPI w/ Bravo III Drive
2004 Ford Explorer Limited (V8-AWD)
Pomme de Terre Lake (Southwest Missouri)