(two out of three are true)
(second one not true)
| www.iFourWinns.com https://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/ |
|
| Back to Basics....Electrickery.... https://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=13898 |
Page 1 of 1 |
| Author: | LouC [ Wed Apr 08, 2015 8:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Back to Basics....Electrickery.... |
As I said...Electrickery.... Those of you with boats old enough to have the old fashioned glass fuses, they can look good, but be oxidized enough to cause intermittent problems. I had replaced my 27 year old alternator recently and was checking voltage levels, and found that I had no juice at the ignition terminal on the ignition switch. I checked continuity of the ignition fuse with the meter, tested good, but still no juice. Popped a new fuse in and it worked fine. Moral of the story is, continuity tests do not verify that voltage can pass through a connection..... When I climbed out from under the dashboard, and looked at the fuse in the light, you could see oxidation on the outside, but also on the inside as well.... Time to replace all the old fuses..... Thinking back I had the same issue with my VHF radio last summer.... Even for those of you with newer boats, I think Volvo continued to use the OMC style 50 amp glass fuses in the engine and tilt n trim harnesses on the rear of the engine, there was also a 20 amp glass fuse in there as well. Might be a good idea to take stock of what fuses your boat uses and keep spares on hand. |
|
| Author: | Jdpber [ Wed Apr 08, 2015 8:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Back to Basics....Electrickery.... |
I always ride with 5 of each 5,10,20,50 and big 50s for my stereo at the amps. Resettable at the house batteries. Spares are always good to have. |
|
| Author: | Surface Interval [ Wed Apr 08, 2015 9:43 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Back to Basics....Electrickery.... |
My '95 190 Horizon 5.0 EFI had a bad fuse in the power wire to the EEC engine computer after about 15 or 16 years. It had never been apart, but the soldered connections inside the end caps of the glass fuse separated and the engine died. It took the shop a while to find that one!!! |
|
| Author: | Jdpber [ Thu Apr 09, 2015 8:05 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Back to Basics....Electrickery.... |
Surface Interval wrote: My '95 190 Horizon 5.0 EFI had a bad fuse in the power wire to the EEC engine computer after about 15 or 16 years. It had never been apart, but the soldered connections inside the end caps of the glass fuse separated and the engine died. It took the shop a while to find that one!!! my service manual has a wire diagram with all of the reset fuses and glass fuses. they are always the first things i check. |
|
| Author: | Capt. Hoss [ Mon Apr 13, 2015 6:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Back to Basics....Electrickery.... |
I will add that once you are done checking them make sure you seat them back right...... I failed o do so and got to the ramp and nothing happened when I tried to get started. Then I remembered and had to go thru them all and everything was fine. |
|
| Author: | Paul I. [ Fri Apr 17, 2015 7:52 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Back to Basics....Electrickery.... |
LouC wrote: As I said...Electrickery.... Those of you with boats old enough to have the old fashioned glass fuses, they can look good, but be oxidized enough to cause intermittent problems. I had replaced my 27 year old alternator recently and was checking voltage levels, and found that I had no juice at the ignition terminal on the ignition switch. I checked continuity of the ignition fuse with the meter, tested good, but still no juice. Popped a new fuse in and it worked fine. Moral of the story is, continuity tests do not verify that voltage can pass through a connection..... When I climbed out from under the dashboard, and looked at the fuse in the light, you could see oxidation on the outside, but also on the inside as well.... Time to replace all the old fuses..... Thinking back I had the same issue with my VHF radio last summer.... Even for those of you with newer boats, I think Volvo continued to use the OMC style 50 amp glass fuses in the engine and tilt n trim harnesses on the rear of the engine, there was also a 20 amp glass fuse in there as well. Might be a good idea to take stock of what fuses your boat uses and keep spares on hand. That is a very good point, but "continuity tests do not verify that voltage can pass through a connection....." is not voltage , but amps. So you might have 12v at the other end by using a meter and what it is powering still is not working. As Lou is pointing out. That wire could have so much rust in it that not eough current/amps can pass though it. |
|
| Author: | rpengr [ Fri Apr 17, 2015 9:39 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Back to Basics....Electrickery.... |
(two out of three are true) (second one not true) |
|
| Author: | Graham R [ Fri Apr 17, 2015 4:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Back to Basics....Electrickery.... |
..................and despite the temptation to use stainless steel hardware in your electric system to prevent corrosion, don't do it . it's a lousy electrical ( and heat) conductor |
|
| Author: | LouC [ Sat Apr 18, 2015 9:34 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Back to Basics....Electrickery.... |
Lol I love that 'explanation of electricity in one pic' (first one) that's what I meant when I posted. Eventually I think I'm going to replace the fuse panel. |
|
| Page 1 of 1 | All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ] |
| Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group http://www.phpbb.com/ |
|