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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 1:20 pm 
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Tadpole

Joined: Tue May 05, 2015 1:10 pm
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Just purchased a 2008 Horizon H183 and it REALLY wanders at slow speed. At about 5 mph I can see the prop rotating left and right at slow speed (probably 10 degrees each way) which causes the boat to wander back and forth quite a bit - this seems like quite a bit of play. When stopped and engine off, I can with too much effort rotate by hand the prop assembly about the same 10 degrees back and forth without the steering wheel turning. At 15 mph+ it runs fairly true. Any ideas if this is a significant problem or if it can be fixed? thx


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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 2:17 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 22, 2014 1:29 pm
Posts: 158
Location: West Michigan
NorthernBoater wrote:
Just purchased a 2008 Horizon H183 and it REALLY wanders at slow speed. At about 5 mph I can see the prop rotating left and right at slow speed (probably 10 degrees each way) which causes the boat to wander back and forth quite a bit - this seems like quite a bit of play. When stopped and engine off, I can with too much effort rotate by hand the prop assembly about the same 10 degrees back and forth without the steering wheel turning. At 15 mph+ it runs fairly true. Any ideas if this is a significant problem or if it can be fixed? thx

Sounds like it could be a worn gimbal ring:http://www.sterndrives.com/steering_play.html

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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 2:30 pm 
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Tadpole

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Thanks - I'll look at the gimbal ring. The motor is the Volvo Penta 4.3l FYI


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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 2:57 pm 
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Location: Austin, TX
With someone holding the steering wheel and you outside trying to move the outdrive side to side, it shouldn't move really at all.

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Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 3:16 pm 
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Tadpole

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Definitely moves a lot with no turn of the steering wheel. I thought it might be in the gear assembly under the steering wheel as another possibility, but the Gimbal might be the issue - I hope this is not too expensive a fix!


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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 3:17 pm 
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NorthernBoater wrote:
Definitely moves a lot with no turn of the steering wheel. I thought it might be in the gear assembly under the steering wheel as another possibility, but the Gimbal might be the issue - I hope this is not too expensive a fix!


Define expensive :mrgreen:

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 3:38 pm 
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For what its worth, my '07 h200 does the exact same thing and has done so since it was brand new. I thought this was a characteristic of all new four winns boats. You get used to the drift after a while and learn not to make quick adjustments when going through no wake zone. My old freedom 170 had none of this drift though... they don't make them like they used to I guess.

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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 3:55 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
I don't think it should be that way. My boat has about 2" play at the wheel before the drive moves. If you grab the drive and try to push it side to side it seems like less, about an inch to an inch and a half.
Given that my boat is 27 years old, I think that these newer boats should have less play...

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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 4:00 pm 
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Location: Austin, TX
My 2003 chaparral (alpha one gen 2) had maybe 1in of play side to side.

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 4:11 pm 
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Location: West Palm Beach, FL
skidaddytn wrote:
For what its worth, my '07 h200 does the exact same thing and has done so since it was brand new. I thought this was a characteristic of all new four winns boats. You get used to the drift after a while and learn not to make quick adjustments when going through no wake zone. My old freedom 170 had none of this drift though... they don't make them like they used to I guess.

I think here you are talking about "wander" or "drift side to side" while going no wake speed. That can be a normal characteristic of the hull/engine. (I have found that neutral trim is better than full-down trim for minimizing "wander")

However, despite the title question, the OP is talking here about mechanical "play" in his stearing. That is not normal to have more than maybe 2deg at the outdrive.

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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 5:18 pm 
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GP about normal wandering vs mechanical failure...

I'll move the drive by hand next time I'm out and follow up for the OP. I know there is at least *some* play in my drive... whether 10 degrees or not I don't know. Although 10 degrees does not sound like much-- an inch at the skeg could amount to 10 degrees maybe? I don't recall the drive ever visibly "flopping around" when nudged or when underway, that seems strange. If I go the other way and turn the wheel and watch the drive, there must be at least 45 degrees of play in my steering wheel alone and that's always been there from the factory floor. I asked about it at the 20 hour check and was told it was normal. One thing I've always hated about boats is that its hard to tell whats normal for that model or not... as a customer you have nothing to compare to and just have to accept the dealers word.

I guess if I had a point its that I don't know if a steering wheel could be used as a gauge to check anything as there is already so much slop in it (mine at least).

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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 5:24 pm 
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Accept the dealers word? Not over my dead body.

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2015 8:38 am 
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>Accept the dealers word? Not over my dead body.

I agree its an ill pill to swallow. But unless you are willing to force them to let you try another of the same boat, you will have no way of knowing how things are "supposed" to be... Especially in cases where the boat is still fully operational. Getting a dealer to correct non-critical issues (and by that I mean the boat doesn't run) requires lots of time and most boat dealers will give you the run around until you simply give up. I steer clear of any dealership (car or boat) whenever possible. I would have done the 20 hour check myself if it would not have voided my warranty.

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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2015 5:01 pm 
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Location: Chester, UK
The mechanical steering systems are pretty dire. It's almost like the precise rack and pinion steering in cars, but with a lot more slop. A gear wheel meshing with a toothed rod which moves the steering cable.

A car steering rack brand new? Many, many hundreds of $

A boat steering system ? Cheaper.

The greater ( variable) tolerances/ slop are the result.

The steering on my 1999 boat was quite tight. the steering on my 2004 boat was a lot more sloppy even from new. The hydraulic steering on my 2009 boat has almost no slop.


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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2015 8:24 am 
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Don't know if this will help the OP or not, but I moved my drive back and forth by hand last weekend. It is definitely not loose. However, there is at least 10 to 20 degrees of play in there before the steering wheel will move. Same play that I see from the steering wheel on my boat. I'd like to eliminate the play from mine as well and make the steering easier, but I'm not sure how. My ps fluid level is good, there is no evidence of leak in the bilge or when i run my hand under the rams which the cable connects. The cable is not restricted and follows a nice easy bend at the stern. Once again, likely not the same problem as yours as my drive does not move on its own while I am underway. I'm tempted to change the ps pump just for grins since it is not expensive, but it would be a guess at the problem.

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