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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 5:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2014 7:24 pm
Posts: 618
Location: Lake St. Clair USA
The lower, you can get here: http://www.sterndrive.cc/product/Fits-O ... 85586.html

You could have the top rebuilt. Or you can search ebay, craigslist and call local places with used boat parts.

Here is a place that is local to me that might have what you need: http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/bpo/5038846506.html

When shopping for the upper, make sure you know your gear ratio.

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NEW - 2000 Cobalt 246 w/454 Magnum 385HP | SOLD - 2000 FW Horizon 180 LS w/5.0Gi 250HP Volvo Penta

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 7:27 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
Posts: 5663
Location: Long Island NY
Crowley Marine
Doug Russel

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 9:13 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 5:10 pm
Posts: 2032
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
LivinnSadley wrote:
Unfortunately it seems the whole outdrive is shot.

An improper changing of gear oil (by yours truly) has turned into an expensive lesson learned.

My mechanic sent me a pic showing all the upper gears bone dry and grinded down to nothing.

Is it true that if this happens to the top the bottom is useless?

Oi vey, so where's the best place to find a replacement?


So how did the filling go wrong?

1. I have pumped the oil in from the bottom (with the middle screw out and the dipstick out) until oil comes out the middle hole.
2. Then inserted the middle screw and continued pumping from the bottom until correct level is achieved at the dipstick.
3. Then check dipstick again after a few minutes. (top off from top if needed)
4. Then check dipstick again after first run.

I have read the other posts about filling from the middle hole, but pumping from the bottom has always been the most logical for me, and has worked fine for all my years with the OMC cobra. I can only guess that you and your father were used to working on Outboard Engines, and pumped from the bottom hole up to the middle hole, but did not continue to fill the upper chamber after that? (step 1 without step 2, 3 & 4?)

I don't mean to beat a dead horse, but this is such a seriously expensive incident, I'm trying to fully understand what went wrong for the benefit of all the forum members (including myself).

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 11:51 am 
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Goldfish

Joined: Tue May 29, 2012 12:47 pm
Posts: 38
It is true that we did not continue to fill the top half. My best guess is that there is a different procedure for a Mercruiser than the Cobra.

Truth is this was my first go-round, and I trusted my father . He feels horrible but I am not blaming him. I should have done my due diligence to make sure we were doing it right.

Is it possible the lower half is still good? I was told by my mechanic that the bottom would be full of shards of metal and it would be impossible to get it clean enough to use even if it wasn't damaged...

Another question, have you heard of, or used yourself a mercruiser conversion kit? Comments?

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 1:25 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2011 10:21 am
Posts: 5667
Location: Austin, TX
Ask and you shall receive

http://www.sterndrive.cc/product/Fits-M ... n-Kit.html

Watch the video about it too!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8p0NUvG41EU

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 2:52 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 5:10 pm
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Location: West Palm Beach, FL
LivinnSadley wrote:
...Is it possible the lower half is still good? I was told by my mechanic that the bottom would be full of shards of metal and it would be impossible to get it clean enough to use even if it wasn't damaged...

If I were you, I would want to see the disassembled lower unit for myself (considering the price). Since you were able to turn the prop freely by hand, and did not mention any feel of metal in the gear teeth, then maybe it could be cleaned up. It's understandable that a mechanic would strongly avoid re-using that lower unit, because you could find him to be at fault if things went bad.

If the lower unit gear teeth were not damaged yet, then you could get it cleaned up and rebuilt with new bearings and seals. If so, I think you would have a 90% chance of the unit lasting for the life of the boat. But the 10% chance of it going bad could trash the upper unit also. The mechanic would rather charge you more now then get blamed for a failure later.

(this is all my personal opinion...that and 6 bucks can buy you a cappuccino at Starbucks)

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 4:42 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
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Location: Long Island NY
I agree with Ray, this depends on what level of cooperation you can get from the mechanic and also his labor rates. You may save some since the gears are the most expensive part of it. I would for sure want new bearings and seals; there is no way to get all the wear particles out of the bearings. If the unit was used in fresh water it's not hard to split the upper from the lower.
I would rather keep the OE lower gears since sometimes the after market ones may not be as good quality.
I wish they had stickyed some of the links I have posted to the factory procedures for the Cobra oil change and the drive RnR.....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 12:34 pm 
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Clownfish
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Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2014 3:47 pm
Posts: 41
Location: Dorset UK
I prefer to remove the top cover, 4 bolts so that the dipstick comes with it. Its sealed by an o ring so easy to replace/reseal. This exposes the upper gear set.

That way you can see if the upper gearset has oil at about the right level. I also like to leave it overnight & check it again just in case as they always drop a little more after a while.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 4:41 pm 
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Location: Chester, UK
Cptsideways wrote:
I prefer to remove the top cover, 4 bolts so that the dipstick comes with it. Its sealed by an o ring so easy to replace/reseal. This exposes the upper gear set.

That way you can see if the upper gearset has oil at about the right level. I also like to leave it overnight & check it again just in case as they always drop a little more after a while.

I changed the oil on our DPS equipped boats from 2001 until 2013, bottom fill with the dipstick removed. It worked fine.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 6:59 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
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Location: Long Island NY
The issue with the original Cobras is that they used a Johnson/Evinrude lower unit with an upper unit sharing an oil passage. If you re fill as I stated you will never have a problem. I did it that way from the first time I changed the oil back in 2002 and my neighbor who only had Mercs told me I was doing it wrong...till I showed him the manual.
Most of em take 2qts, the 4 cyls a little less, the 460/King a bit more (108 oz)...

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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