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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 8:54 pm 
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Clownfish

Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2014 8:26 pm
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2014 H190RS Volvo 4.3 225 mpi raw water cooling

When you flush your engines cooling system or run antifreeze for winterizing where do you hook the water hose? It has a water hose connector coming off the engine and than of course there's the muffs. It sucks from the outdrive in the water, what is the difference while on the trailer?


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 4:16 am 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
For flushing, you're supposed to be able to use that hose connection but I still use muffs. For winterizing, some use muffs but it's not a reliable way to get the engine completely filled with anti-freeze. If you ever open that hose connection be sure to get the cap back on tight, otherwise your engine will suck air into the cooling system while running.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 8:15 am 
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Location: Ontario
Volvo recommends using the flush port and not the muffs.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 9:32 am 
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Location: Long Island NY
If you want to use AF to reduce corrosion the only 100% safe way is to drain manually and backfill through the hoses.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 9:15 pm 
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Clownfish

Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2014 8:26 pm
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Great, just the information I needed thank you. In the owners manual it details how to drain the engine but not how to run the anti freeze. I should add I didn't thumb through all the pages. Should I tape or seal the water inlet ports on the out drive or will the water pressure not allow air flow up the drive?

Draining the engine per the manual makes me 90% confident. Draining and filling with anti freeze gives me that extra 10% I need to sleep well this winter.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 9:20 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
My Volvo 5.7GL/ SX Drive requires the muffs to flush, as the water goes through my power steering cooler prior to the engine.
I don't believe a flush port would allow for this?

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 7:33 am 
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Location: Ontario
alex8q4 wrote:
Volvo recommends using the flush port and not the muffs.


Upon second thought I should have said that "for my particular setup" Volvo recommends the flush port. This is likely due to the fact that my raw water pump/impeller is not located in the out drive, rather, it's mounted to the block. The flush port in this case simply introduces water into the suction line closer to the impeller/raw water pump.

If your impeller is in your out drive you have to use the muffs.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 3:07 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
SX Drives are also engine mounted.
Only the old OMC Cobra's and Bravo 1's have them outdrive mounted...

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 8:02 pm 
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Location: Lower Trent Ontario, Canada
If you have a factory flushing port, the pump is mounted to the engine. If I'm winterizing one of these, that's all that's needed. If flushing one, I use the muffs to get the supply lines clean as well.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 12:16 am 
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I use muffs to flush and never use the port, but I keep mine trailered. The port is more of a pain. If I kept mine in a sling I would use port if no easy access to drive could be made.

To winterize I drain manually ...2 block plugs and 2 manifolds plugs.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 5:30 pm 
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On many installations the flushing port is intended to be used to flush the engine while it is shut off, but it was not meant to be used to run the engine. The flushing system does not feed the inlet side of the raw water pump, so the pump may be compromised if the engine is run. I use the muffs to run the engine. I drain most of the water in the fall, then add antifreeze into the engine thru the flushing connection. I then add a few gallons of antifreeze to a plastic tub under the outdrive and use a 750 gph bilge pump connected by a short hose to the muffs to pump antifreeze from the tub to the engine. I use alligator clips to connect an old 2 wire extension cord with an inline switch to the battery to power the pump. I run the engine for several minutes while watching the water temp, other gages, and engine. I usually shut down at 120-130 degrees. This gives the engine enough time to circulate antifreeze thoroughly throughout the engine's cooling system, from the inlet port on the outdrive through the engine and the exhaust system. Its worked well for over 20 years. I do recapture the antifreeze in the spring, test it for concentration, and re-use it the next fall. In the spring I drain all the antifreeze I can, hook up the hose to the muffs and run it while catching the first few gallons of diluted antifreeze for disposal.
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