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PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2016 8:53 pm 
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Seahorse

Joined: Wed Feb 03, 2016 6:43 pm
Posts: 25
Location: San Jose, CA
Boat fires right up ( especially cold), but sometimes doesnt do anything at all. After plenty of fear, blank stairs by the other riders and luck she will finally crank over. When she doesnt want to start nothing happens from the key, no crank or click. I am sure I am not the only one here. Does anyone have a write up?

Craig

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 8:11 am 
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230 Mike
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Joined: Mon May 15, 2006 7:59 pm
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
ConsWinns96 wrote:
...but sometimes doesnt do anything at all.


So it either starts normally, or doesn't even click? Just clarifying. How many hours on it? Starter solenoid is my first thought.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 8:25 am 
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Shark

Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2015 7:52 am
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Location: Huntsville, AL
When you turn the key on and nothing happens, do the gauges come on. Do you have ignition power, just no starter.
Or do you have no power.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 10:37 am 
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TheDanceII wrote:
When you turn the key on and nothing happens, do the gauges come on. Do you have ignition power, just no starter.
Or do you have no power.

Good questions.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 12:38 pm 
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I had a similar problem with my 5.7Gsi and it was caused by the starter motor relay.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 9:25 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
Start with the battery terminals, wiring and ground terminals, then look at the terminals on the starter solenoid. Sometimes the drain for the exhaust manifold will leak right above the terminals for the solenoid and make a rusted mess of them. I had this problem about 8 years ago, a new solenoid and some gasket sealer on the threads of the manifold drain plug cured it. I also put marine grease on the terminals after installing the wiring, to keep moisture out of the connection. Check the terminals and connections on the ignition switch as well. Its possible for them to get corroded or get loose. Last spring I had an issue where the whole ignition circuit was intermittently not cranking, and no power to gauges. It turned out to be oxidation on the old glass and metal fuse. The fuse had continuity from end to end but the oxidation prevented current from passing through it. New fuse and back to normal. Many boats come with sub standard battery cables and terminals. On a boat that age, I'd replace the positive and negative cables with tinned Anchor marine cable and have a marine shop crimp on marine quality battery clamps. Do not use wing nuts on the terminals to retain the battery cables on the battery. They get loose and then you have the no crank issue.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 8:01 am 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
Lou I think the cable you're thinking of is Ancor. Gooood stuff.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2016 7:57 pm 
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Location: Allatoona Lake, Georgia
Make sure you have it out of gear when trying to start it or it won't turnover. Does it finally start after moving the gear shift back and forth?

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 2:57 pm 
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Seahorse

Joined: Wed Feb 03, 2016 6:43 pm
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Location: San Jose, CA
Ok, lets see here.

I have accessory power when I turn the key to start it regardless of a crank or not. So I think the key switch is working.

Wiggling the throttle, ensuring it is in neutral, does not make a difference.

Always fires right up when cold.... I am going with a bad solenoid not working when it is hot.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 2:59 pm 
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Seahorse

Joined: Wed Feb 03, 2016 6:43 pm
Posts: 25
Location: San Jose, CA
LouC wrote:
Start with the battery terminals, wiring and ground terminals, then look at the terminals on the starter solenoid. Sometimes the drain for the exhaust manifold will leak right above the terminals for the solenoid and make a rusted mess of them. I had this problem about 8 years ago, a new solenoid and some gasket sealer on the threads of the manifold drain plug cured it. I also put marine grease on the terminals after installing the wiring, to keep moisture out of the connection. Check the terminals and connections on the ignition switch as well. Its possible for them to get corroded or get loose. Last spring I had an issue where the whole ignition circuit was intermittently not cranking, and no power to gauges. It turned out to be oxidation on the old glass and metal fuse. The fuse had continuity from end to end but the oxidation prevented current from passing through it. New fuse and back to normal. Many boats come with sub standard battery cables and terminals. On a boat that age, I'd replace the positive and negative cables with tinned Anchor marine cable and have a marine shop crimp on marine quality battery clamps. Do not use wing nuts on the terminals to retain the battery cables on the battery. They get loose and then you have the no crank issue.


Solid Sir, will do my due diligence on this!

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