www.iFourWinns.com

2002 5.0 GL-B in a 190 Horizon -

Looking for thoughts. I'll be brief as I can.

While running on the lake, my temperature gage comes right up to "normal" - about 170 ± 5, sometimes slightly hotter depending on load. Anyways, I started getting the "beep" alarm from the engine cockpit and diagnosed it as coming from the sensor in the thermostat housing area. In other words, if I disconnect from the sensor, the beep stops. I know it's not a sensor issue, because the engine/manifolds, hoses, feel hotter than normal. Plus, there is no beeping if the engine is cold. I'm not able to verify if the original thermostat was ok, because I broke it apart when removing (stupid o-ring deal...).

I've replaced the thermostat with the correct Volvo Penta part and I also removed the impeller and inspected. The impeller was fine and everything is back re-assembled.

Started everything back up in the garage with ear muffs and didn't notice any issues. After about 4~5 mins, I started hearing a squealing sound (like a bad bearing or belt). Let it run for a few more mins and then noticed that the impeller housing was very, very hot. Manifolds were also very hot, so I shut her down. Temperature gage never moved off minimum.

I have not removed the impeller yet, but will. Looking for a few thoughts here:

1. Is it possible to orient the "twist" of the impeller in the wrong direction?

2. Is it possible to have an obstruction or "something" between the outdrive water intake and the raw water pump (i.e. pump not getting water?

3. Sound like a raw water pump bearing?

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Some follow-up here for those who are interested.

Took impeller cover back off. Everything looks fine.

Noticed that with ear muffs on and water on, I don't get water to the pump (with the outdrive down)...BUT when I raise the outdrive, I get a nice flow of water out of the supply hose to the cooling water pump. When I lower the unit back down, the water supply stops.

Anyone know if this sounds normal?

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Never having had a Volvo with the engine mounted impeller, I'm not sure if that's common or not but I have heard of people having difficulty getting them to suck water on the hose. I'd make sure that your muffs fit very tightly and use the dual inlet ones if you are using the single inlet ones. Some Volvos use a flush port that is in the raw water intake line, I'm not sure if you can run it this way though. It would eliminate the problem of the distance the water has to travel from the lower unit all the way to the engine mounted pump; the water has to travel up at least a foot and forward at least 4 feet.

On my OMC Cobra, that has the impeller in the upper gear housing, one of the checks I do when I replace the impeller is to leave the impeller housing off and hook up the muffs and water hose, and turn on the water. This is to make sure there are no obstructions in the water intake area or leaks in the water transfer tube grommets inside the drive. I can tell you that unless the muffs really fit tight, you will not see water at the water port that feeds water to the impeller, and this is only at the top of the upper gear housing, not traveling the long way from the intake holes on the lower unit all the way to the front of the engine. So the muffs must fit tight.

Also I have heard of the water transfer tube grommets rotting or just not sealing inside the drive, that could be part of the issue.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Thanks for the reply. I'm thinking it may be an issue with getting the impeller "primed". Perhaps with the outdrive down, I just don't have enough water pressure/seal to get water to the pump.As soon as I get my wings on the smoker, I'll be bolting everything back up and trying again!

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