It's gone

230 Mike · **Posted:** Sat Sep 03, 2016 7:42 pm

This year's winterization marks the end of my stash.

LouC · **Posted:** Sun Sep 04, 2016 8:02 am

What are you switching to next Mike? The 10w/40 syn they now recommend? I've been using the Mercruiser 25/40 conventional in my old boat. People here use that or 15w/40 from Pennzoil Marine, Shell (Rotella) or Chevron (Delo).

230 Mike · **Posted:** Sun Sep 04, 2016 12:27 pm

Not sure Lou, I haven't put much thought into it yet. For years I've been partial to Mobil 1 synthetic in everything else I own (even Mobil 1 grease, though I just recently switched to different grease because of excessive separation), so I may take the easy road and go with M1 10/40 from Wally World. I'm not crazy about this change but it'll be nice to not have to pay $12/quart for oil.

LouC · **Posted:** Sun Sep 04, 2016 3:06 pm

I used to use the straight 30 Delo that was rated for both gas & diesel. Then a few years ago I noticed that no longer had the gas cert only diesel. So I switched to the Merc stuff. I've done oil analyses on both and the Merc holds its viscosity as well and the oil pressure readings are about the same. I also use the Merc high performance gear oil in the Cobra drive. Works fine and you can find it everywhere....

Graham R · **Posted:** Sun Sep 04, 2016 4:51 pm

LouC wrote:

I used to use the straight 30 Delo that was rated for both gas & diesel. Then a few years ago I noticed that no longer had the gas cert only diesel. So I switched to the Merc stuff. I've done oil analyses on both and the Merc holds its viscosity as well and the oil pressure readings are about the same. I also use the Merc high performance gear oil in the Cobra drive. Works fine and you can find it everywhere....

No reputable oil company will sell junk; it's not worth it.

Yearly Mobil 1 changes in my DPS for 9 years; no problem. it probably didn't need it and the oil would have lasted 3-4 years

As to the engine, I did try to keep as close as possible to the VP grade ( 50 synthetic was not available in Europe !), but anything close proved OK !

There has always been a fixation with oil changes in the US; not so here in Europe.. Engine hours/ mileage for cars should be taken into account as well.

230 Mike · **Posted:** Sun Sep 04, 2016 6:45 pm

True Graham, we do like a good oil argument. :mrgreen:

That is slowly going away with the new cars telling us when to change oil, often with surprising accuracy. Of course the increase in people who couldn't change their own oil if their life depended on it is contributing to the trend.

On the other hand, we've never had to worry much about vehicle electric systems. :mrgreen:

rpengr · **Posted:** Mon Sep 05, 2016 9:38 am

230 Mike wrote:

Not sure Lou, I havnt gotten around to putting much thought into it. For years I've been partial to Mobil 1 synthetic in everything else I own (even Mobil 1 grease, though I just recently switched to different grease), so I may take the easy road and go with M1 10/40 from Wally World. I'm not crazy about this change but it'll be nice to not have to pay $12/quart for oil.

My Wally World only stocks the M1 5/30, which sounds too low of a viscosity for our Florida Weather. However, I see I can order the 10/40 online for $22.88/5qt, so I just ordered 2 of them.

LouC · **Posted:** Mon Sep 05, 2016 9:53 am

Where we are Autozone carries about any grade of any oil sold today. I use M1 5w/20 in the 07 Jeep Hemi and Valvoline Max Life 10w/30 in our 2 older vehicles.....

230 Mike · **Posted:** Mon Sep 05, 2016 3:12 pm

Hmm, the last time I looked the WW's around here stocked most of the M1's, including 10/40. But I haven't checked lately; the last car I owned that used 10/40 was sold almost two years ago. I hope they don't drop it. But I have both an Auto Zone and O'Reilly's even closer than WW, so as long they make it I can get it somewhere.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Tue Sep 06, 2016 8:48 am

i am going to start running peanut oil :mrgreen:

rgoals2win · **Posted:** Thu Mar 09, 2017 2:47 am

As Mike noted, folks always seem to love a good chat about motor oil...as do I.

My question, however, is whether or not you all are using marine-specific oil when you mention WW, AutoZone, etc. or if it's really OK to use auto engine oil in our boat engines. Surely would be more affordable, but always thought they had additional anti-corrosion additives in them.

Open to changing my thinking here if it's all overkill if we change our oil every season anyway.

Thanks, All.

- Bob

rpengr · **Posted:** Thu Mar 09, 2017 8:32 am

I have never used a marine specific oil.

The "oily internal parts" of the engine is not where I worry about corrosion, although ideally I like to run the engine at least once every 2-3 weeks for at least 15min to keep everything oiled and remove moisture.

The external parts of my engine get coated with T-9 corrosion inhibitor (including wiring). The Cooling system is the real worry, and always gets flushed with fresh water after salt water use.

TheDanceII · **Posted:** Thu Mar 09, 2017 10:15 am

I purchase the Royal Purple High Performance Marine (HPM) 10w40 online.
Can't seem to find it locally at a good price.
I also use the Royal Purple oil filter.

LouC · **Posted:** Thu Mar 09, 2017 4:33 pm

This is one of those topics that can be debated ad infinitum. What I've read is that the heavier viscosity marine oils are a benefit if your engine does not have an engine oil cooler. The two indicators you can use to determine if your motor oil is protecting well enough are:

Oil analysis, a good idea to do one every few years, they can tell you if the oil is staying in viscosity, the TBN, if there is fuel or water dilution, or salt contamination. I have used both the straight weights (Delo 400 30 and 40) and the Merc/Quicksilver 25/40 marine specific oil. Did Blackstone lab analyses on each. They both held up well, staying in grade after a season's worth.

The other indicator is you hot slow idle oil pressure reading. Even if the manual says it can be lower, I'd look at oil pressure readings of lower than 20 psi at a hot slow idle as suggestive of a loss of viscosity.

PS the analysis I did the season before this past, showed a small increase sodium contamination. This was probably the start of the blown head gasket issue I had at the end of this past season. So oil analysis is a great tool for a number of reasons.

After I took apart the top end of the engine, the bearing surfaces for the roller cam looked very good, at least what I could see.....

230 Mike · **Posted:** Thu Mar 09, 2017 5:45 pm

According to Mobil's web site, M1 10W40 is indeed gone.

https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1

I believe I'll be using M1 15W50 from now on, which is stocked at my local WalMart.

www.iFourWinns.com

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