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 Post subject: Rust flakes?
PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2018 6:00 am 
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Shark

Joined: Wed Jul 27, 2011 9:07 am
Posts: 133
Location: Freeland, Michigan
I noticed my boat has rust flakes in manifold drains, and also when changing thermostat there was some in intake. This is my 2nd year on my boat, and I wasn't sure about maintenance done on it, so i am doing a lot of preventive maintenance on it. I have done plugs, caps, rotors, wires, fluids, greased steering ram, cleaned engine grounds, impellors, generator anode, cleaned flame arrestors, thermostats. Boat has 300 hours and ran well- no issues overheating or anything really. I winterized it using the 5 gal RV antifreeze jug on each motor. I did not drain it. No issue there, except when changing starboard T-stat- I was suprised at the rust flakes. So then I removed all 4 manifold drains and found rust flakes. Boat has the factory engine flush outs, and no visable issues on outside of manifolds. Boat did spend a season or 2 in salt in florida then on to Utah and Colorado where I bought it. I hauled it to Michigan. Should I be concerned? I plan to use a rod to get that crap out along with a long magnet. Would like to get another season out of them. No idea if they have been changed -I would think so. Will freshwater use here in MI cause this rust or is this a saltwater thing?

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 Post subject: Re: Rust flakes?
PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2018 8:37 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2011 9:19 pm
Posts: 252
Location: San Antonio, TX
I don't have experience in your situation as I don't have an I/O, but if you've got rust flakes in you cooling system I'm guessing it's from the manifolds. They would appear to be rusting from the inside out.
All those little flakes are getting circulated thru your system and can glog up you cooling passages.

You said the boat had been in a salt-water environment, but how sure are you that the PO really took good care of the engine maintenance?

I'm not trying to scare and like I said I don't have that situation on my boat, but if it were me, I'd change stuff now.

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 Post subject: Re: Rust flakes?
PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2018 9:48 am 
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Shark

Joined: Wed Jul 27, 2011 9:07 am
Posts: 133
Location: Freeland, Michigan
It was sold in florida in 2001 and I wast told it spent a short time there, then it went to Utah with owner #2 till 08. The 3rd owner who has had it since 2008 has done some decent service. He did new fuel pumps, spark plugs, bellows, he had receipts, service manuals, engine alignment bar and spare parts- impellors, plugs, u-joints, drive locks. etc.. It sat inside a garage most of the time from the guy that I bought it from. Rich old guy with tons of other toys including 4 smaller boats There is no where to really run a big boat like that in grand junction Colorado. He took it to lake powel in utah about one a year for a week. I assume those manifolds and risors are not the original ones. This is my first boat and first winter i wanted to change PM stuff for piece of mind.

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2001 Four Winns 298 Vista
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 Post subject: Re: Rust flakes?
PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 12:00 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 12, 2013 3:46 pm
Posts: 570
I would recommend pulling the risers off. Its not that bad unless those bolts are really rusted. Then you can inspect the manifolds and decide if you need to replace them. I have been told by multiple mechanics to pull the risers every few years to inspect no matter fresh or salt and those gaskets degrade and leak over time. Last thing you want is leaking manifolds into the engine.

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 Post subject: Re: Rust flakes?
PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 7:41 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
Posts: 5661
Location: Long Island NY
Keep in mind that these are cast iron engines that were designed to have antifreeze with corrosion inhibitors in them not raw seawater. So because the marine engine marinizers were too cheap and short sighted to make closed cooling standard no matter what you do you will get rust flakes. It's not only from the ex manifolds and elbows it is also from all the rest of the engine that has raw water flowing through it (block, heads, and intake manifold). This means that when you drain the engine and manifolds for winterization you must poke those holes with a pick or thin screwdriver because if the rust clogs the drain, the water will crack in freezing temps and then you need a new engine. This is why I do not like the single point drain systems, after the first few years even in fresh water they can clog because of how cast iron corrodes. The other issue is that the rust flakes can stop the thermostat from closing and cause the engine to run cold. Both are common raw water cooled problems.


Also DO NOT use that method (suck AF in with out drsining) of winterizing, because if you didn't drain it before hand and the thermostst does not open all the way guess what happens? The AF fills the ex manifolds and very little gets to the block & heads because for the raw water to exit and get replaced by AF, the thermostat MUST open! You got lucky but the right way is to:
Run engine, change oil and filter and the fog it. Let it cool about 45 min. Then remove every drain and poke those holes till you see water drain out. Disconnect the bottom end of the big hose from the stat housing to the front water pump at the pump end; that holds a lot of water too. Then disconnect the raw water intake hose at the stat housing (or impeller housing if a Volvo) and point it down so it drains. I like to fill that hose with AF till it runs out the outdrive water intakes; this pushes water out of the hoses at the transom mount and out of the water passages and impeller housing (Alpha or Cobra) in the drive. Then re connect the hoses you drained. Replace the drain plugs in the block and manifolds. I do back fill the engine and manifolds with AF after drsining but that is optional.

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 Post subject: Re: Rust flakes?
PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2018 11:37 am 
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Shark

Joined: Wed Jul 27, 2011 9:07 am
Posts: 133
Location: Freeland, Michigan
Where are the drain plugs in the block located? Didn't notice any just one on the end of each manifold. Guess I should pull those and reflush/poke.

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 Post subject: Re: Rust flakes?
PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2018 1:15 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 12, 2013 3:46 pm
Posts: 570
My Volvo 5.7 GI had the drain plugs down low in the middle of the block. They were blue plastic screw in plugs if I remember correctly. Kinda hard to see under the manifolds.

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--2002 3880 Regal Flybridge | Twin Merc 8.1HO **Seven**
--2003 AB 13 VST Console Inflatable | Tohatsu 40hp TLDI **Phish'n ski**
--310 Mercury Inflatable | 1982 9.9 Johnson


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 Post subject: Re: Rust flakes?
PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2018 4:02 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
Posts: 5661
Location: Long Island NY
Ones in front of the starter the other is in the same place on the other side. When you drain you rod these out with a pick or thin screwdriver. Then disconnect the big hose that goes from the Thermo housing to the front water circulating pump at the pump (bottom end of hose). This will drain a lot of water. You already know how to do the manifolds.
Then you mark the hoses on your impeller housing (sea water pump). Disconnect and drain those. Take the one that goes back to the transom mount and stick a funnel in it. Then fill it with marine antifreeze (must be no tox) till it runs out the water intakes on the out drive. This will push water out of the hose and power steering cooler that is hiding behind the starboard side exhaust manifold. Re connect the hoses to the impeller housing according to how you marked them, do NOT mix em up!

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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 Post subject: Re: Rust flakes?
PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2018 8:51 am 
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Shark

Joined: Wed Jul 27, 2011 9:07 am
Posts: 133
Location: Freeland, Michigan
Thanks guys!

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2001 Four Winns 298 Vista
Twin 5.7 Volvo Penta GSI DP


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