www.iFourWinns.com

I had this problem last year and never got it figured out. It will start fine,never stalls,No oil or engine lights come on. But just when you go to throttle up it wont go past like 2k rpm?
Things I checked/replaced.. New Plugs..new distributor cap/rotor..Changed fuel/water separator..Checked fuel pressure and it was 30psi on the high and 5psi on the low. Checked the one way valve at the gas tank.

So I found a mechanic that will take a look at it,but he's about two weeks out with work before he will get to me,So I figure I'll look it over again to see if I can solve it in the meantime.

I read about limp modes where the boat is restricted to a certain rpm to avoid damage and was wondering if my boat even has this option and could possible be in it? I read usually buzzers will alarm and possible lights pop on at the dash,Which I do not see or hear. Im not sure if that can be disconnected not to show me and was by P.O.?

As far as I know there is only the fuel/water separator filter canister,Does anyone know if there are internal screens on the TBI or somewhere that might be clogged?

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1999 Four Winns 245 Sundowner

Not anywhere near your type of setup as I have an outboard, but I ran across a similar issue a couple years ago. Motor just would not rev up enough to get on plane, very sluggish, total lack of power. Stopped mid-lake to check things out. Immediately I thought it was fouled spark plugs since I have a 2-stroke. Not really fun changing plugs while in the middle of the lake (worried about dropping plugs & tools....). Had no effect on performance.

The final fix? Just happened to notice that my throttle cable had come loose at the motor! Basically, motor was running fine...I just couldn't give it enough gas because of the loose cable. Tightened it up and re-adjusted it, then everything was back to normal.

Like I said, not your same setup, but it could be a potential issue. Worth double-checking to rule it out, if nothing else.

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1999 180 Horizon OB Fisherman Pkg
2013 Grand Cherokee 4x4 w/ 5.7 Hemi
San Antonio, TX

not a bad idea,,I'll check it!

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1999 Four Winns 245 Sundowner

Nope,Not it
I looked around and didnt see anything new really,However I retraced my plug wires to make sure one wasnt crossed or something and they all seem to go where they say they should go. But when I was done and about ready to go,I cranked it over for the hell of it and it didnt want to start. I didnt unplug any wires just kinda tugged on them to see which one I had when I was checking,So I figured thats the only thing I messed with so went back and just pushed them all on again "nothing was off that I felt" but after that I went to go crank it and it fired right up.

Think I just tugged something a bit loose or think I got some bad wires? I wouldnt think this would cause my main problem,but who knows?!

I guess new wires wouldnt hurt anyway,Think I need to get exact OEM volvo parts or any good quality wire set like something from mercruiser or something?

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1999 Four Winns 245 Sundowner

Sounds like you may have found the issue. I like OEM stuff for certain things. Wires are hit or miss on the off brands and not too much more expensive for OEM if you find the right place.

As for the buzzer not sounding from your original post. One thing to verify is if the buzzer sounds when you go to start the boat. Most setups have all the dash lights come on and the buzzer sounds for a second or so when you turn the key on. This is to verify all are in working order. If you don't hear that then you should try to track down why. I had one of my buzzers unplugged and didn't realize it for quite some time when one engine would alarm on start up and the other didn't. It took awhile for my brain to compute that.. LOL

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--2002 3880 Regal Flybridge | Twin Merc 8.1HO **Seven**
--2003 AB 13 VST Console Inflatable | Tohatsu 40hp TLDI **Phish'n ski**
--310 Mercury Inflatable | 1982 9.9 Johnson

Ok,Then yes the buzzer works,everytime I start the engine I see the oil light and hear a buzzer at the dash for about 5 seconds or so then everything goes off. So I guess thats working then,Which also indicated im not in limp mode?
I dont think the wires are my problem,But have to say it does start better/faster. I havent had a chance to run it underload,,only just started and revved it at the dock,,on a high rev still seems sluggish on wanting to take the fuel. I also just put a new fuel/water separator filter in. If you can think of anything else to check,Let me know

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1999 Four Winns 245 Sundowner

Yes my 01 298 has twin VP 5.7 GSI PEFS motors and they do have a limp mode called SLOW, and i believe the only things that causes that is low oil pressure or high water temp. It is a very basic system that doesn't allow rpms to go past 2500 i think. I also think the alarms should be going off but not 100% certain on that.

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2001 Four Winns 298 Vista
Twin 5.7 Volvo Penta GSI DP

I had a similar issue with my prior boat, a V268 with the 5.7 GI-B. The engine would bog down around 2500 rpm. After a bit of troubleshooting, the MAP sensor turned out to be bad. Once replaced, the issue went away. Just a thought.

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2008 V338
Twin Volvo Penta 320hp DP

2002 268 Vista
1987 225 Sundowner
1986 170 Horizon
1975 Steury V415SS

Is there a way to test these or just have to swap them out and hope it works?
I'll have to look up a part number to be exact but looks like they cost close to a $100..Might be worth a shot

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1999 Four Winns 245 Sundowner

I ended up having my mechanic fix the problem after changing plugs, plug wires cap and rotor with no success. I stopped replacing parts and decided to leave it to the mechanic.

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2008 V338
Twin Volvo Penta 320hp DP

2002 268 Vista
1987 225 Sundowner
1986 170 Horizon
1975 Steury V415SS

No anyone with diacom on their laptop? It will tell you any fault codes.

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2001 Four Winns 298 Vista
Twin 5.7 Volvo Penta GSI DP

Not sure,,He said he will get a hold of some scanner tool and check a few things when he gets to me.

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1999 Four Winns 245 Sundowner

If I were to buy my own scanner tool,Im not even sure which one to get,But someone from another site told me to run a test on the obd plug with a 12v light tester and if it lights I have a code. Well I ran this test and it did indeed light up indicating I have a trouble code. While im waiting on this mechanic to get to me,Part of me is thinking of just buying this scanner tool? They are pricey for sure but seen like a Rinda scan tool for like $500-$600,Which is alot for me but if it is as simple as it displaying a code showing a bad sensor,I could fix this myself. Im sure the mechanic visit with the scan tool will run me about half of that.

So im wondering what nightmare codes could I experience and just let a professional deal with it,,Or since I dont plan on getting rid of the boat,Is it worth the investment and just get the tool and take the gamble hoping it shows me the exact problem so I can fix myself? Let me know what you think,Or if you know of any better cheaper scanners that might read my code? Thanks!

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1999 Four Winns 245 Sundowner

I also thought of buying a tool. The auto scanners are great and cheap. The marine scanners are NOT cheap. They are also not standardized so if you do get another boat it may not work. Unless you think you will be dealing with a ton of issues just calling the marine mechanic for a 30 minute scan and his experience with dealing with the codes seems more logical to me. Around me it would be about 12 visits to equal the price of the scan tool. The only drawback is dealing with their schedule and they are busy now.
Its also not like an auto scanner trying to figure out the codes. When I have a code to look up and diagnose there are always tons of hits on google with the same issue. I doubt you will get that with marine codes.

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--2002 3880 Regal Flybridge | Twin Merc 8.1HO **Seven**
--2003 AB 13 VST Console Inflatable | Tohatsu 40hp TLDI **Phish'n ski**
--310 Mercury Inflatable | 1982 9.9 Johnson

I had many issues with a Volvo Penta Gi TBI engine when i first bought my Four Winns Vista 238.

Over time i got used to checking Trouble codes on the ECU with a paperclip and LED.

You will have to do some research to find out if this will work with your engine before jumping straight into it, but if the ECU is a MEFI 1 - MEFI 4 (around yr 2001 and earlier) it should work. You will see the pictrure on the below link of the data plug - check this is the same; if so it should work.

Details are available here: https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/do-yourself-boating-budget/103342-make-marine-efi-code-tool-less-than-%241-00-a-2.html and there is also a list of codes on there so if any flash up you can identify them.

Of course this is all at your own risk and i would strongly suggest checking your Engine's ECU is the right MEFI Variant before proceeding. Also double checking all wires and connections before the procedure.

there are other places online that may help with this too - try googling "DIY MEFI Code Reader" or similar.

The TBI Engine was an absolute headache for me, and i say that as someone with above average knowledge of these things and also a half decent DIY Mechanic - I hope you have better luck than me.

Here is a brief list of possible reasons for not reaching 'normal' RPM, whilst some can be immediately and easily discounted, it may help to give you an idea of other things to check:

1. Fuel condition. Type and Octane possibly old fuel
2. Propeller pitch or diameter, damaged blades
3. Restricted fuel pickup tube or anti siphon valve Fuel System Test
4. Crankcase oil volume, high oil level can cause aerated oil and lifter collapse
5. Marine growth on hull and outdrive
6. Wrong gear ratio in outdrive
7. Restricted carburetor air intake (clogged flame arrestor)
8. Restricted exhaust system (broken exhaust shutters/flappers) in engine transom shield or drive
9. Poor cylinder compression Compression Test
10. Carburetor defective, or wrong type. - Also Mixture (MAP Sensor in your case!)
11. Fuel pump pressure and vacuum
12. Boat overloaded, improperly loaded, or improperly trimmed.
13. Engine Overheating
14. Engine timing and ignition system operation
15. Remote control cables and linkage for proper travel to open throttle plates fully


Hope you get it sorted soon.....