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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2018 3:21 pm 
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My owners manual just states to "See an authorized Volvo Penta dealer for winterizing/long term storage."

I know you need to drain the block and follow the recommended maintenance, but I can't find anything definitive on adding antifreeze to the engine. I see some saying to remove a hose and fill through there, others using the muffs, etc.

Any advice? Volvo Penta 5.0 GXi-F. I found a workshop manual but that didn't mention anything about long term storage/winterization.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2018 6:29 am 
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Here's a good guide for winterization.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engine- ... -and-drive

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2018 9:04 am 
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Yeah, I've seen that write-up before.

I was looking more for a pdf or some kind of bulletin from VP on how to add coolant to the engine.

Even the shop manual doesn't tell you how to do this.

For example, the owners manual tells you how to drain the block and manifolds for freezing temps, but I feel like just opening and probing those drains will still leave some water in the motor and/or hoses.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2018 9:05 am 
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Yes, generic "How to winterize" articles are all you need.

Volvo does not make your engine, so there is no reason for VP to publish
any winterizing information.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2018 3:29 pm 
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Actually they marinized the engine so they should have detailed instructions on how to winterize. This is a short coming on their part because both Merc and OMC published detailed instructions on how to winterize.

What I have always done after completely draining and poking all the holes:

Put some OMC gasket sealer or Permatex Aviation on the threads of the drain plugs and replace them. Re-connect the large hose from the front circulating pump on the bottom (you remove this to drain) and disconnect it on the top end. Put a funnel in it and fill the engine with either -100 marine antifreeze with corrosion inhibitors or mix up 50/50 Sierra brand Propylene Glycol no tox antifreeze till it comes out of the thermostat neck. Now the engine is filled, just re-connect the top end of the hose. Next disconnect both feed hoses for the exhaust manifolds at the thermo housing. Fill each manifold with AF till it runs out the exhaust (this is why you must use no tox AF). Then reconnect those hoses. Lastly mark the hoses on your impeller housing for in and out (ie in comes from the transom mount, out goes to the thermo housing, do NOT mix these up). Take the one that goes to the transom mount and with the drive all the way down, fill this with AF till it runs out the outdrive intake holes. This will flush out the p/s cooler and push water out of the lines/passages in the transom mount and drive. Then re-connect this hose at the impeller housing. For the impeller housing, I'd just disconnect the hose that goes from the impeller housing to the thermo housing at the thermo housing. Then fill the impeller housing and hose with AF and re-connect.

Keep in mind this is all generic and I do not see your engine in front of me so I don't know if it has other coolers that may be used in certain applications.

But in my opinion, Volvo for sure should have this in their owners manuals and shop manuals and in fact, when they were in the joint venture with OMC they did, they just copied OMC's much better manuals. They seem to follow the European car approach that you can't touch anything under the hood, just give us your open checkbook to maintain your 'superior' vehicle. For me no thanks. I'd stick to simple and basic things I can maintain myself.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2018 6:36 pm 
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Lou - my thoughts exactly.

What the marinas charge to “winterize” and “summerize” would pay for the gas for a year of boating.

Fortunately VP’s manual DOES tells you how to drain the system for freezing temps, so I figure I’ll do that and then figure out the best way to add coolant into the system.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2018 6:47 pm 
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I think Mercruiser says to take the thermostat out and fill through there, but I’d rather not take things apart if I don’t have to.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2018 10:49 pm 
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You don't have to remove it. If you do it as I described above it will be fine.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
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2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 9:02 am 
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I'll give your method a shot.

I cleaned the entire boat inside and out this weekend. With temps in the 80's forecasted for this weekend I don't think I will be winterizing just yet!

I also have to buy one of those dumb oil change pumps, or make my own I suppose. I really don't want to drop $ 50 on one.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 10:24 am 
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I have the Topsider, been using it for about 15 years, I fabbed up a garden hose connector so that it screws onto the male threads on the dipstick tube. This is much faster than snaking that little hose down the dipstick tube, you just have to make sure the gasket in the female end of the garden hose connector seals. Warm up the engine and this will pull out the oil in about 10 min. I hope you have a remote oil filter, if not be prepared to pull out the rear seats.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/d0wisrd7z8xjn ... p.JPG?dl=0

the problem with the electric pump sometimes is getting them to prime. The vacuum pump is simple and works well.


Ps on the topic of antifreeze, I would not use either the -50 or -60 because if you put them in the freezer at 0*, they both start to get hard. They don't expand but still I did not think that was the best way to protect the engine if you are in upstate NY you get some cold temps. So, if you want to use antifreeze, I'd use the more expensive -100 stuff or, just get a few gallons of Sierra brand no tox antifreeze and mix it 50/50 with water, that will give you good freeze protection.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 11:33 am 
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That pump is pretty clever.

Now that I think of it, I have a fluid extractor in my garage. I could probably rig up something using a pipe fitting and just use that.

I do have the remote oil filter. There's plenty of room in the engine bay. Almost enough to fit an oil drain pan under the motor, although I don't know if there's a drain plug on there or not. There's enough room where I usually wipe out the bilge after a day's use if I have been swimming and there's water in there.

The only other thing is figure out how to add fluid into the outdrive. Some say to pump it in through the drain hole. The manual offers a second way of adding from the top, but it says it takes longer so who knows.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 12:23 pm 
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As far as draining the oil in the bilge, I would just use an extractor pump. Reason being, I'm pretty sure your V/P has the same oil tube set up as my OMC, where the tube goes down to the bottom of the oil pan and attaches with a banjo bolt. If this is how it is, then I would not try draining the oil from there because in addition to possibly making a mess, you could lose one of sealing washers needed to seal the banjo bolt. If the dipstick is on the front of the engine and goes right into the pan/block area, then you could use the normal oil pan drain, but still the likelihood of a mess exists. Imagine trying to get a pan full of 4 qts of oil out from under the engine without spilling any. Ain't happening.
For the drive just go and buy a pump that will hook up to the V/P threads. I use a Merc/Quicksilver pump on my OMC. You should pump from the bottom with the vent plug out, this will prevent air bubbles and allow you to get the correct amount in the drive. Do not fill from the top, except just to top it off, you will never get enough oil in the drive that way.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 2:53 pm 
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Lou - This stuff?

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-mar ... gL6-PD_BwE

Probably need what, two gallons or so?

Is this the Sierra stuff you mentioned?

https://peakauto.com/wp-content/uploads ... t_2017.pdf

Looks like it's only good down to -26 when mixed 50/50 with water.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 6:44 pm 
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Yes to both, for us -26 is more than good enough.
The -100 rating on the west marine stuff is burst temp not freeze temp. I measured it with a PG hydrometer and it’s about-45 for freeze protrction, it will stay liquid down to that temp. What’s the coldest you get?

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 8:45 pm 
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-26 was the record low. Subzero temps for weeks at a time aren’t uncommon.

I’ll probably just order the West Marine -100 and be done with it.

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