www.iFourWinns.com

I noticed some minor corrosion and silt in my t-stat housing when draining, but otherwise everything looked good for an 06.

I chalked it up to the prior owner using the boat in the most polluted lake in the country, lol.

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2006 Four Winns Horizon 200
Volvo Penta 5.0 GXi/SX

I've been following this thread and have in fact winterized my Volvo 8.1 by removing the hoses and the block drains and filling everything back up with -100. I always get nervous I've missed something and in fact will go back out over the weekend on another project and double check all the hoses. On my engine I have the blue engine flush connector. I've always wondered why I couldn't run my engine up to temperature using that connection then shut everything down, open the block drains then use that connection to introduce -100 antifreeze and start the engine back up. Like everything on this I find conflicting information. Just wondering if something like that is an option. When I do remove the hoses I often blow some air through them to make sure all the water is purged before introducing the anitfreeze back into the system. I did use right around 6 gallons of the antifreeze in my engine.

The first year I had the boat I had my dealer winterize the boat and they ran the engine on the muffs over a kiddie pool that was filled with the -100 antifreeze. I understand many dealers do it this way to save time but I did not find it to be the best way to perform the task. It did seem easier though than me reaching into the bottom of the bilge and wrestling the hoses off my raw water pump. Many bruises and some blood later the job was done but my wife thought I had been in a fight when I got home.

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2008 Vista 278 Volvo Penta 8.1 Gi 375 hp
1999 Horizon 220 5.7 GSi

It looks as though there are differences in engine versions that would or wouldn't allow you to use the flush connector. My engine manual doesn't say you can't so I assume it is ok since it does "T" into the water intake, the only warning is that if run past idle in the water you may pull seawater in with the fresh water flush.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engine- ... flush-port

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2004 Vista 298
Twin 5.7L Volvo Penta GXi-E

OK if you don't want to look like you got into a fist fight then try this....
next time if you have access to electric, bring a hair dryer and an extension cord, plus a set of picks. The hair dryer can be used to carefully warm up those hoses, and the picks will help you get the hoses off without a wrestling match. I like to smear a coating of OMC/Evinrude triple guard grease on the neck of the thermostat housing hose fittings & circulating pump neck because this cuts down on the corrosion that makes the hoses get stuck.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

May sound nuts but I use Vaseline on the hose connections. It makes them easy to pull off. I also use it on the rubber O rings on water filter for the house.

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http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o71 ... wqm355.jpg


08' H210SS
VP 5.7Gi

Sounds like a good idea but doesn’t Vaseline degrade rubber compounds? Must work so I’m sure willing to give it a shot. Honestly they can be a son of a gun to wrestle loose sometimes.

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2008 Vista 278 Volvo Penta 8.1 Gi 375 hp
1999 Horizon 220 5.7 GSi

Especially on a raw water cooling system the hoses last almost indefinitely due to low pressure and lower temps than a closed system. I don't think putting a coating of marine grease on the necks of the thermo housing and the circulation pump (also Volvo impeller housing for V/P engines) will cause any harm. Just get the hose clamps good and tight.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II