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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2018 7:47 am 
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LouC wrote:
This is why any inboard that I will own in the future has to have closed cooling. Much easier to winterize and you can use the AF in the winterizing tank method, (because all you are doing, is flushing out the raw water side, not the engine) as long as you use a pump to pressurize the flow. Hook up the tank, turn on the pump, start the engine, fog it (either thru the carb or via a winterizing mix if an EFI engine) and when the tank gets low shut it off. Done, no stretching, removing seats, getting beat up, etc. Run 5 gallons of -100 AF and done. Closed cooling and a remote oil filter are musts as if you maintain your own I/O boat, especially when you are getting older and less flexible....


This is what I have now. I have a spare sea strainer cap that has a garden hose style hookup. I hook the winterizing tank up to it and let the engine suck the AF up.
But outboards are even easier. Don't need AF and the etecs winterize themselves. How cool is that?

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2018 11:51 am 
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Took me 5 minutes to drain the second time around. Really not bad at all.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2018 12:26 pm 
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LouC wrote:
This is why any inboard that I will own in the future has to have closed cooling. Much easier to winterize and you can use the AF in the winterizing tank method, (because all you are doing, is flushing out the raw water side, not the engine) as long as you use a pump to pressurize the flow. Hook up the tank, turn on the pump, start the engine, fog it (either thru the carb or via a winterizing mix if an EFI engine) and when the tank gets low shut it off. Done, no stretching, removing seats, getting beat up, etc. Run 5 gallons of -100 AF and done. Closed cooling and a remote oil filter are musts as if you maintain your own I/O boat, especially when you are getting older and less flexible....


To fog I just filled the fuel filter with 2 stroke oil and ran the motor until it smoked. Then changed filter.

I made a mess of the oil filter because I couldn't find a wrench and had to poke it with a screwdriver to remove it. Then I was turning it the wrong way so long story short ended up with a bunch of oil in the bilge to clean up next time I'm at the boat.

Checked the drive for water intrusion - none, nice pink fluid still in there. I'll get around to that at some point later on.

One thing I did was on my trailer I oil sprayed all of the galvanized parts and suspension components before putting it away. Even just backing it up in my driveway the trailer was noticeably quieter.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2018 2:04 pm 
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If you use the same filters all the time get a cap wrench, that you put a 3/8ths" drive ratchet into and this will make it very easy. Bring a new filter with you when you buy the wrench and then it will fit perfect.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
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2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2018 2:43 pm 
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I was able to get the fuel filter off by hand. The oil filter was a PITA without a wrench but I'm glad that cheap Fram filter the prior owner used is out of there now.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2018 3:22 pm 
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To do my oil filter I have to remove one side of the rear seat and slide the battery back on that side, no remote mount on this engine, but will add one when I repower...I use a cap wrench on the oil filter and the old style strap wrench on the fuel filter....trick....take a piece of sand paper and fold it so both sides facing out are rough then slip this between the strap wrench and the filter....it keeps the strap wrench from slipping. Used this way back in the old days when all we had were strap wrenches and our Chevrolets had the oil filter way back in the same place it still is.....Ford V8s had them up front, so were easier.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2018 3:43 pm 
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Running it out of the water makes me want a thru-hull exhaust for next year. lol

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2018 7:57 am 
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Just thought of something....you know those brass plugs in the block of the Volvo rigged engines....what about just taking one and cutting the handle section off, then have someone weld a length of brass rod in between the threaded end of the plug and the handle end, to make the drain plug longer, so it sticks out from the block? As long as there is nothing in the way, this would make them easier to reach. Just a thought. As long as there are no hoses, coolers etc in the way, there is no reason why they can't be longer and easier to get at.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2018 2:25 pm 
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I had no issue removing them with a small adjustable wrench. The PITA part, at least the first time, was getting the hoses off.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2018 4:49 pm 
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Block = filled. Hardest part was getting the damn hoses off!

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2018 7:00 pm 
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Go and get a set of picks, they are good for pulling those hoses off. Use two to pull the hose off. Then coat the flanges on the thermostat housing with OMC/Evinrude triple guard grease and the hoses won't rust in place.
Yep filled my block + manifolds up with my batch of -26 Sierra. Getting cold here!

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2018 7:35 pm 
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Winter storm watch already for up here.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2018 7:35 am 
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Misterfu02 wrote:
Block = filled. Hardest part was getting the damn hoses off!


I have good luck using a heat gun. Especially this time of year. Then use adjustable pliers and carefully twist the hose to crack the seal. They come right off after that.
Plus it warms up your hands while you are working. :D

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--2003 AB 13 VST Console Inflatable | Tohatsu 40hp TLDI **Phish'n ski**
--310 Mercury Inflatable | 1982 9.9 Johnson


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2018 12:52 pm 
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I might splurge for a set of picks next year. I had to work with what I had this year.

I used a 5+ year old one of these to suck the oil out of the pan, LOL:

Image

I just realized I can use this to get the spilled antifreeze out of the bilge too. Best $ 5.99 at Lowes I ever spent!

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2018 1:46 pm 
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Misterfu02 wrote:
I might splurge for a set of picks next year. I had to work with what I had this year.

I used a 5+ year old one of these to suck the oil out of the pan, LOL:

Image

I just realized I can use this to get the spilled antifreeze out of the bilge too. Best $ 5.99 at Lowes I ever spent!


I used a pump like that during Hurricane Sandy. We had a 5,000 watt generator to keep the lights, etc on. No power for 2 weeks. Going through about 6 gallons a day to keep the house warm. I had about 35 gallons of gas before the storm hit but after that you could not get gas easily, there were lines. Ahhh….but I had filled up the F/W in Sept....so pulled out the back seat...pulled up the gas tank cover and used that pump to re-fill all my gas cans! 40 gallons of gas really came in handy.


for the oil change I find the vacuum pump like the Topsider works great with an attachment to mate with the garden hose adapter on the dipstick tube (if your engine has one). Much faster and easier....

https://www.dropbox.com/preview/Oil%20change%20pump.JPG

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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