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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2018 3:54 pm 
Hi guys, Just purchased the 2007 h210 and it’s my first stern drive boat. We have used outboard boats mostly in salt, flush religiously after each use using muffs. We berth our boat over summer for a months and with the outboard we can still raise the motor and flush with muffs.

The new boats motor is fitted with VP engine flush port which will give me the option to continue flushing with fresh water while berthed.

So, reading the operating manual on this new girl, it’s says if I have a flush port on a Volvo fitted by Fourwinns to use flush port without engine running however it also refers to you to flush in accordance with Volvo engine manual. The manual advises you to flush with engine at idle speed.

Can you advise which way is the correct way for this engine? Or if either way will work ok?

I do note that using the flush kit port will not flush the stern drives raw water intake on the leg so, not sure if this is concen or not for a month in the berth.

Thanks in advance for any replies.


Last edited by dcerra on Sun Dec 16, 2018 9:03 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2018 8:22 pm 
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Do what the engine manual says. If I remember correctly you flush it with the engine idling. Don’t give it any gas because it’ll suck sea water in through the drive.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 2:25 am 
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You should have blue cap in the flush tube which from what i recall means you can run engine at idle while flushing. Below is a link to a YouTube how to on flushing the volvo penta. It's simple but remember to turn water on first with drive lowered...run engine for while then shut it off before shutting water off. Otherwise you are sucking saltwater thru motor again.

The drive will be fine... just give her a good bath after you pull her out....obviously you will not be slinging the boat.


https://youtu.be/zM6LdNmPT4c

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08' H210SS
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 2:42 am 
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You may have correct corrosion tabs already, but there is a difference between ones to use in saltwater vs freshwater. There's a good article on this and link is below. In short...how you can tell by looking at them I do not know.

https://www.boatus.com/magazine/2017/oc ... twater.asp

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08' H210SS
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 9:18 am 
Hey thanks guys, interested reading TX and some other useful links in there!


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 12:15 pm 
One last thing, she is also set up with the Neutrasalt system. Would it be also possible to flush using the VP port and then add the Neutrasalt for last 45 seconds of the fresh water flush?


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2018 8:49 pm 
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Maybe Lou or someone with more info will respond about the nutrasalt issue...im not familiar with how it works

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 5:27 pm 
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The neutrasalt system relies on the raw water pump suction; the inlet is near the oil cooler on the transom.
The VP flush system is downstream of that, the fresh water inlet is just before the pump inlet.

The fresh water flush will suck in little neutrasalt solution.

My routine, when I had both, was to run the neutrasalt through with salt water, then flush with fresh water. The risers lasted 9 + years ) I only changed them because I got a pair of Volvo ones very cheaply indeed on Ebay; I felt guilty at not having changed them. They looked very good when I took them off. My engine had closed cooling, the fresh water flush helped keep the heat exchanger clear I am sure.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 3:09 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
That is one thing I don't know about because the boat I've had all this time is our first! But when it gets repowered I am going to try to fit full closed cooling. I know of someone who did it on another site (Cobra drive package) so the impeller must flow enough GPM to keep things cool. Might have to use a bigger heat exchanger. It would be really nice, to only have to replace the elbows every 5-7 years instead of both the manifolds and elbows both.

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