I've had my 2007 220H for less than a year. Yesterday was the first time I'd unpacked her from her winter hibernation and gotten her ready for some fun. So, all I had for comparison was the last couple of years with the old boat: a 1974 I/O with a 4 cyl chevy engine and merc alpha drive. Here is what the lists look like for comparison:
Old boat (to be performed in EARLY May so that *most* issues can be dealt with/corrected by Memorial Day Weekend):
1. Install charged battery. Wrestle cables into position on posts so that battery cover would close.
2. Run lower unit up. If it makes it up, hope that hydraulic pump has another year in it.
3. Pull boat from storage unit to gas station to top off with 10 gallons of fresh gas, added to 1/4 tank of stabilized gas. Go to house for hookup to hose and muffs. Run lower unit back down and turn on hose. remember the hydraulic pump is old.
4. Re-install carb after removal and storage for winter (recommended by mechanic after years of problems in spring). Fluids have already been changed in fall, so that is not necessary.
[Proceed to steps 5-16 ONLY if points and distributor cap are not being replaced. This was my dad's boat, with me doing the work and being allowed to use it. He never saw a need to replace these parts every year because he'd had 20+ years of what he called "turnkey boating" doing it this way. BTW, it always took HOURS to get this thing running every year unless they were changed-then it was MINUTES.
]
5. Crank engine for awhile.
6. Cuss.
7. Call boat/motor names.
8. Check all plug wires and connections.
9. Check cap and points for corrosion. None apparent to naked eye.
10. Crank engine more.
11. More cussing/name calling.
12. Check fuel filters for blockage. Clean anyway just in case.
13. Crank engine more until battery dies.
14. Cuss, scream, call names, inflict violence.
15. Find battery charger or set of jumper cables (engine cover removable, so venting of fumes/sparking not an issue)
16. Nearly surrender, file surface of points and cap with emery cloth.
17. Contemplate that distributor is getting worn, and $600+ price tag for replacement. (Parts only).
18. After prolonged cranking, lots of throttle pumping, etc., the boat starts. Allow to run on muffs for awhile until it reaches normal temperature and apparently smoothed out and ready to go.
19. Repair damage from Step 14.
20. Go take a ride on the lake. Chances of breaking down while on the water: 50% or better.
21. [BONUS STEP] Break hydraulic hose raising lower unit at ramp. Physically raise lower unit, and tie/block off to hold it up for the drive back to the lake house.
New Boat1. Install two charged batteries using wing nut terminals and convenient strap mounting system.
2. Move switch from "Off" to "1" or "2" (let's be crazy-you can choose which one!!!)
2. Raise lower unit.
3. Pull boat from storage unit to gas station to top off with 10 gallons of fresh gas, added to 1/4 tank of stabilized gas. Go to house and hookup to hose and muffs.. Fluids have already been changed in fall, so that is not necessary.
4. Run lower unit back down and turn on hose.
5. Start boat on first try. Let run to reach normal temperature.
6. Go take hour-long ride on nearly boatless lake without any concerns.
7. Cuss old boat one last time on drive back to KC.
For those who have shared in the taste of a similar victory, feel free to share.
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I will have over $600 in parts only on a boat I am trying to sell!!! Plus I have spent the better part of 8 hours diagnosing, sourcing and changing out the parts. Atleast I will not have to wonder if the boat is going to have problems later!
