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 Post subject: Re: engine core plugs
PostPosted: Fri Dec 13, 2019 10:35 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
Posts: 5661
Location: Long Island NY
You’re in freshwater there is no way an outboard conversion will ever make sense. The cost of a comparable outboard (if new) all by itself is approx $15,000 to that add approx 5,000-7000 to re engineer the stern and transom and even then you don’t know if changing the balance of the boat will upset the handling. Reman Ford inboard all the way. I’m in 100% salt water and I would not do an outboard conversion.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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 Post subject: Re: engine core plugs
PostPosted: Sat Dec 14, 2019 10:20 am 
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Location: Long Island NY
https://www.michiganmotorz.com/ford-mar ... -3177.html
This will work if you have a 5.8 liter (351 cu in).
But first replace the plugs run it on the water hose and see if you get water in the oil. If so then just go with a reman and keep in mind the intake manifold may be cracked too since coolant flows through it. If you used the suck the AF up the drive the exhaust manifolds should be OK because they will get AF that way whereas the engine will still have raw water in it until the thermostat opens and allows the hot raw water to exit the exhaust system.

The marinas who use this method have a way of recirculating the AF so that it stays hot and the thermostat stays open They use enough AF of a strong enough concentration that even if it gets diluted it will still protect. I could set myself up to do it this way, but I do it the orthodox way laid out in the shop manual because as long as you drain everything nothing can really go wrong. Plus as you say it wastes AF and gets it all over. I use approx. 5-6 gallons for my 4.3, I buy about 3 gallons of Sierra no tox antifreeze and mix it up 50/50. That will protect to -26 (still be liquid) and here the coldest we ever get is zero.
If I was in the upper Midwest or upstate NY where it really gets cold I'd either go back to the -100 or use the Sierra but mix at a higher concentration.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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 Post subject: Re: engine core plugs
PostPosted: Sun Dec 15, 2019 9:43 pm 
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Posts: 1488
I would think you got lucky with the plugs popping. Seems to me that had the block cracked the pressure would have been released and no plugs would've popped.....the plugs dropping out would have released the pressure.....hopeful that's the case anyway.

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 Post subject: Re: engine core plugs
PostPosted: Mon Dec 16, 2019 6:10 am 
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Sting Ray

Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 7:36 pm
Posts: 67
thanks louC for the reply,
i just talked to my partner yesterday. asap i will run the engine to temp and hold my breath then look for obvious leaking water and check the oil for milky discoloring........
if there is a god i will be ok if not i'll be looking for a reman 5.0 fi ford engine.

we tried the motorhome traveling for a season last year and i have decide to go back to boating. less smoke for sure. campgrounds are ike a smoldering forest fire! marinas and anchoring out beat the the crowds at the campggrounds for the most part. i don't like the rv dumpstations either, not enough dumps stations for the number of rv's out there


tx,
thanks for your reply and i agree whole heartedly i think i have been saved by the core plugs although not the intended use of core plugs i think they save me plenty.
z


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2019 8:51 am 
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Sting Ray

Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 7:36 pm
Posts: 67
please settle a bet.
is there am impeller in the gearcase [I/o]of a boat w/ an inboard engine mounted raw water pump?
thanks


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 Post subject: Re: engine core plugs
PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2019 10:12 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
Posts: 5661
Location: Long Island NY
It depends on the year of the power package and model of outdrive.
1986-1993 dog clutch Cobra pump is in the drive under the plastic cover at the end of the upper gear case.
1990-1993 OMC cone clutch same as above.
1994 and up cone clutch pump is on the engine like Volvo

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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 Post subject: Re: engine core plugs
PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2019 12:01 pm 
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Sting Ray

Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 7:36 pm
Posts: 67
wow, you are full of knowlege
i see,
1996 volvo / penta 5.0 fi sx
z


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 Post subject: Re: engine core plugs
PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2019 5:13 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
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Location: Long Island NY
Yep so that model has the impeller (raw water pump) on the engine, either belt driven or runs off the crankshaft pulley. So who won the bet?

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2019 6:39 pm 
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Sting Ray

Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 7:36 pm
Posts: 67
i won partner buys lunch!

another job i have is inbedding the windows in the cabin they are leaking pretty badly...
z


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 Post subject: Re: engine core plugs
PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2019 9:13 am 
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Sting Ray

Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 7:36 pm
Posts: 67
i want to run the engine to test the oil for water, but using water here being 14 degress will make and ice rink rather quickly what if i ran on AF to temp by using a circulating pump. bring the engine to temp to open the thermostat then shut down and check for contaminated oil? AF caught in a container from the exaust to the raw water pump and around? does rv AF deteriorate w/heat from the engine?
z


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 Post subject: Re: engine core plugs
PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2019 1:56 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
RV type antifreeze is not really meant to be used as an engine coolant but it may work for that purpose. If you can find Sierra brand Propylene Glycol antifreeze and mix up approx. 6 qts you may be able to use that. In New York they sell it at ACE hardware and some auto parts stores. If not I'd use what you can get.
A way to keep it running long enough for a good test (engine thermostat has to open) and re-cycle it through...

get a kiddie type pool or trough for animals to drink out of that will fit under your outdrive and transom mount. Then fill it at least half full with AF. get a bilge pump, hook up a hose from the pump to your water muffs. Put the pump in the pool covered with AF. Slide the pool under the outdrive so that what comes out the exhaust goes into the pool. Hook the bilge pump up to a 12V battery to pressurize the flow to your raw water pump on the engine. Then start the engine, make sure someone is watching to see if AF starts coming out the exhaust in like 15-30 sec or so. If so, let it warm up just make sure that the pump stays covered with AF. Check the engine for leaks and motor oil for emulsion. If its good, then you got lucky.
If you used anything other than the -100 AF I'd then drain it all out, due to how cold it gets where you are.
if the AF you used is good enough to leave in, then re-cycle what's left in the pool back in the jugs to use to winterize it next year.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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 Post subject: Re: engine core plugs
PostPosted: Sat Dec 21, 2019 12:17 pm 
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Sting Ray

Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 7:36 pm
Posts: 67
thanks for your reply,

i definitly making a change to autotomobile type AF -100 and a recycle system. i have a extra sump pump for my house and i will try that in the circulating the AF. but a simple bilge pump may be an easier set up.
weather warming up here hope to get to the test maybe before christmas!

z


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 Post subject: Re: engine core plugs
PostPosted: Sat Dec 21, 2019 9:28 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
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Location: Long Island NY
You want to use non tox propylene glycol antifreeze for this job because regular automotive antifreeze (ethylene glycol) is very toxic, and it’s tough to do this job without spilling some. Keep pets and children away if you use automotive antifreeze.

My personal preference is for Sierra brand Propylene glycol antifreeze, it is an automotive quality antifreeze with corrosion inhibitors but it is non-toxic. The only drawback to using it as an coolant is that when mixed 50/50 the boil over protection is not as high for ethylene glycol (toxic) coolants and the freeze up protection is not as low. But for my climate (coldest we get is a few degrees below zero F) it is perfectly fine and you can always go with 60% antifreeze and 40% water for more protection. In fact I would probably use not only for winterization but if I got a new or a re-man engine in the future and installed a closed cooling system, because a coolant leak in the bilge if it got pumped overboard by the bilge pump would not result in a hefty CG or DEP fine.

A sump pump would probably work just fine, I have a large 120V pump I used to use for our pool cover before I got the loop lock cover for the pool. All you need is good fitting muffs to make this work. I like the Merc/Quicksilver muffs with the metal clamp that goes through the outdrive water intake holes. It holds very tight and the rubber is softer than the cheap Tempo brand ones so the water pump will prime much faster.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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