www.iFourWinns.com

I got my F5s and the boat is out of the water. Anyone want to give me some pointers? Yes, I do have the "special tool".

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2001 Horizon 260 - 7.4 Volvo GSI DP

Lefty-loosy righty-tighty

Removal: Put in fwd gear to loosen rear prop; rev gear to loosen front prop; remove both nuts counter-clockwise.

Installation: Put in fwd gear to tighten front prop; rev gear to tighten rear prop.

Torque specs:

Front Nut: 45 Ft-Lbs.
Rear Nut: 50 Ft-Lbs.

(But most people just get 'em "real tight.")

Be sure to grease the prop shaft!!

Always inspect the nylon insert in the rear nut, as it's a wear item and the only thing holding the rear prop on. If the nylon gets worn and doesn't offer much resistance when hand tightening, replace the nut.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Mikes' explanation is spot on. What I have always done, so as not to have to put the boat in gear when not running, is use a 2 x 4 and place between the front and rear props when loosening or tightening the nut. It serves the same purpose, but just a little easier.

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One of 4 Previous (Sold) Boats:
2000 Four Winns 268 Vista

Current Boat: 2004 Chaparral 235 ssi cuddy

You know, if I was smart I'd have thought of that a long time ago. But...

Also, depending on who put the current props on, the nuts may be WAY tight. I nearly broke the handle on my tool getting them off the first time.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I also use the 2"x 4" method, unless the rear cover is off and the shift cable is disconnected; then it's just a matter of moving the linkage by hand. Don't forget to put PLENTY of waterproof grease on the splines before you fit the props, otherwise you'll probably never get them off again without damaging the props or hubs!

If you find ourself having to reuse a suspect rear nut, that is perhaps on the borderline of not locking, the locking function can be improved using a pin punch. A couple of pops on the outer face deflects the plastic strip inwards and hey presto, the nut is self locking again!

Graham

I got the switch done. Pretty easy project once you get into it. I sure don't like the fact I have $1000 worth of stainless steel back there without a cotter pin or something holding them on. I got them pretty tight by hand, but I think I am going to get a breaker bar and get them a little tighter.

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2001 Horizon 260 - 7.4 Volvo GSI DP

I hear you.

However, it might help to know this: last year I bought the heavy-duty tool for the front nut, and a 1/2" drive 30mm socket for the rear nut, so that I could use a torque wrench to torque them correctly. If you got them "real tight" with your tool, I can almost guarantee you that they're already tighter than the factory spec.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

That's true. I got the nuts off, so I guess I know they were tight. If I post in a few days my prop fell off, shame on me.

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2001 Horizon 260 - 7.4 Volvo GSI DP

Dave
Where are you going to post the results?
I am anxious to hear your results.

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Marc, Kathlin & Nathalie


'89 Chaparral Laser 32

'93 Vista 245, 5.8L w/ King Cobra

Former Boats
'01 H260, 7.4 VP Duoprop
'98 H200, 5.0 GL w/VP SX drive

It's going to be a bit before I get the boat back in the water. I have a motorcycle trip planned for this weekend so it will probably be after Labor Day before I can post results. I'll put them in the original thread so the whole discussion is there for future reference. I'm really looking forward to see if the F5 makes that much of a difference.

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2001 Horizon 260 - 7.4 Volvo GSI DP

Sooooooooooo, what is the part number for the "Special Tool"?

I have a 2006 5.7GXI-G with a Duo-Prop.

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2006 300 Sundancer
2007 Trailblazer LT V8
2004 Grand Prix GTP Comp G (For Sale)
Previous Boats:
2006 255 Sundowner 5.7GXI-G
2000 CrownLine 202BR
1994 Baja 180 Islander
1980 Galaxy 18' BR

Start with 3855876. There are a couple of variations, depending on the suffix. -3 is a very heavy duty tool with a provision for a 1/2" torque wrench, ratchet or breakover bar, but it only fits the front nut; you'd need a 30mm socket to go with it for the rear nut. Ebay is a good place to get one of those.

Without a suffix is a 2-part tool, zinc plated, which has one wrench for the rear nut and another for the front nut.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Thanks Mike.

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2006 300 Sundancer
2007 Trailblazer LT V8
2004 Grand Prix GTP Comp G (For Sale)
Previous Boats:
2006 255 Sundowner 5.7GXI-G
2000 CrownLine 202BR
1994 Baja 180 Islander
1980 Galaxy 18' BR

Also... remove the props at least 3 times a year and re-grease the shafts or you will find yourself beating on the inner prop with a dead blow hammer to get it off. DPs are notorious for getting stuck. Just spent an hour Sunday beating the inner prop off my starboard drive with a 4# Dead Blow. Damn my shoulder hurts!

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Jvalich
http://www.badcock.com

'04 FW 288 Vista "Mental Floss"

Yeah I forgot that. I only do it once a year, but then my props never get wet (Brent). If you want a good prop shaft grease that won't add any toxic stuff to the water, try Volvo #1141644.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic