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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2020 8:54 am 
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Seahorse

Joined: Sat Jun 22, 2013 9:02 am
Posts: 27
Location: Maine
Hello All,

I have a 2006 Four Winns Horizon H210 w/ a Volvo Penta GXi-g. I live in the Northeast part of the country, so our boating season is limited at best. There are approximately 200 hours on the engine and its been very lightly used for most of its life due to the fact that I keep it on a small lake and we mostly cruise.

At the end of last season I noticed a hesitation while throttling up and while cruising. It would mostly be a drop or jump of a 100-200 RPM's. I thought I had water in the fuel and mentioned it to my winter service/storage mechanics when I dropped it off for the season. They removed the fuel and put some new fuel in as part of their winterization process, but also found that my fuel pump need to be replaced. I had known that the pumps on these engines were an issue due to the paint chips clogging and there had been a whine from it for the past 5 or 6 years, but the boat had always started and run fine, so I hadn't had it replaced. Anyway, they replaced it during the spring make-ready process. As soon as I got it out on the lake for the first time this summer I noticed that the hesitation and changes in RPM's was still present. It would start/idle just fine, but as soon as I would start to throttle up it would bog down and then come back.

This got progressively worse over the course of 4 or 5 trips out and the last time the boat completely died out while on plane, did not shut off, just lost all power. I brought it to a stop, then took off again and it went right back up, but still have the hesitation issue.

I brought it back to the dock and the following week decided to try and check a few things on my own since all I/O mechanics in the state are booking our 4 - 6 weeks at this point. I pulled a couple plugs and noticed that they were in really rough shape. I went and purchased all new plugs (exact same model that I pulled out) and installed them. I also pulled off the distributor cap to check the connections. They didn't look too bad, but I used some emery cloth to clean up the terminals, cleaned everything back up, and reinstalled w/o messing with the rotor.

Now, when I try to start, the boat cranks like a champ for about 2 seconds, sounds like its firing up, then immediately dies out. It happens exactly like that every single time I try to start it now. It almost appears to be something shutting the engine down as it tries to fire up. I don't understand how changing spark plugs would take an engine from running poorly while under load to not starting at all. Does anyone have any ideas?

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2020 9:29 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
Posts: 5661
Location: Long Island NY
When you pulled off the distributor cap did you mix up the order of the wires?
Sounds like that might be the cause. Do you have the “crab cap” with the wires coming out the sides or the conventional one where they come out the top?

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2020 9:40 am 
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Seahorse

Joined: Sat Jun 22, 2013 9:02 am
Posts: 27
Location: Maine
Hey there, thanks for the quick response. The cap is the type w/ the wires coming out of the sides, horizontally. I had thought the same regarding having the wires in the wrong location, but there are numbers on the distributor cap (1-8) and I can trace them all back to what I believe are the correct cylinders. Although, its is completely possible that my understand of what the "right" cylinder is not correct.

If I am standing in the boat facing the engine, the cylinder 1 would be on the right and closest to me (and the serpentine belt), cylinder 2 would be on the left and closest to me. From there, the assumption was that they went in order, so it would look like the following if I was standing in the boat looking at the engine:

8 7
6 5
4 3
2 1

Does that sound correct?

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2020 10:41 am 
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Location: Long Island NY
yep that's correct as far as the cyls port side 1357 starboard 2468
sure that the rotor and cap are fitting on right?
I have never had one being I have this old '88 4.3 with a Prestolite points distributor but I have heard that the crab caps are troublesome, you might do best by replacing it with OE. Many people report having to change these things once a season. So if you start out with new plugs and new cap n rotor you should be good. It's a GM design and not one of their better ideas from what I've read & heard….

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 6:49 am 
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Seahorse

Joined: Sat Jun 22, 2013 9:02 am
Posts: 27
Location: Maine
Troubleshooting update:

I went out to check the low voltage wiring to my ignition coil. There are two plugs that go into it, one has two wires on it (Red/Black, Yellow/Black) and the other has 4 wires on it (Yellow/Black, Black, Yellow, Pink/Green). I used a Fluke DVM, set to DC volts, my negative lead clipped on the battery negative, and tested that I read 12Vdc when connecting the red lead to the battery positive. I then checked both plugs that go into the ignition coil both with the key on and the key off. None of the wires have 12V going to them.

1. Does that make sense? I believe that there should be a constant power going to one of the wires all of the time when the key is on, correct?

2. Does anyone have the electrical schematics for my boat/engine? I have the manual for both the boat and the engine that came with it, but they are frustratingly vague when it comes to the details of the engine components. I have been scouring the internet, but have had little luck locating the exact diagram that I need to trace out this circuit.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 9:14 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
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Location: Long Island NY
Are you sure the control is in neutral fully? Neutral safety switch functioning?

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 9:26 am 
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Seahorse

Joined: Sat Jun 22, 2013 9:02 am
Posts: 27
Location: Maine
The control is in Neutral, straight up and locked on the throttle lever.

Regarding the safety switch, it is installed. When I turned the key on I get the 2 chirps and I hear the fuel pumps running for a few seconds. If I remove the safety switch/lanyard, nothing happens when I turn the key on, when I return the safety switch/lanyard, I get the 2 chirps and hear the fuel pumps running.

I appears that the safety switch is functioning properly. Do you know of anywhere I can locate (I would be willing to purchase) the electrical diagrams for my boat? I would really like to try and troubleshoot the electrical a bit more, but I'm stuck w/o the diagrams.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 11:10 am 
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Location: Long Island NY
OK go over to the volvo/penta forum at iboats. Someone there may have them or knows where you can find them. also there is a poster by the name of muc who is very knowledgeable when it comes to sterndrives in general, esp Volvos.
I have the OMC original shop manual for my boat and the wiring diagrams have helped out with a number of repairs over the years.
their tech forums are the best I've seen. There are guys there who have done things I can only dream about lol.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 11:18 am 
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Seahorse

Joined: Sat Jun 22, 2013 9:02 am
Posts: 27
Location: Maine
Thanks you sir. I will check on iboats. If I do find the solution, I will be sure to post what the issue was.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2020 10:19 am 
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Shark

Joined: Tue May 06, 2014 7:25 am
Posts: 145
Location: Ohio
Could the coil/module assy have failed?

Since you replaced the pumps for the paint issue, also check the screen of the fuel pressure regulator as the chips can clog it also and there is volvo service bulletin to replace that screen with a C clip, and in some cases like i had the paint chips can make it all the way to clog the injectors. I did the service mod to the fuel pressure regulator and had my injectors cleaned. New injectors can be found on ebay also for ~$299.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2020 9:04 pm 
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Clownfish

Joined: Wed Jan 30, 2019 10:23 am
Posts: 43
Location: 2008 Rinker 330 on Georgian Bay
I had a similar issue with my boat. The ignition control module died, about $200 to replace it.

Good luck.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2020 9:41 pm 
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Seahorse

Joined: Sat Jun 22, 2013 9:02 am
Posts: 27
Location: Maine
Thanks for the recommendations. I did actually change out the ignition coil/module along with the distributor cap, rotor, wires, and plugs (as noted above). I think I have chased it down to a fuel pressure issue, but not sure if its a bad pump or a supply issue. Could also be a bad regulator I'm told. I just had the pump replaced over the winter, so I hope its not that, but I have an appointment to have the place that does my maintenance look at it in 2 weeks. That's about 3 weeks sooner than most other places in the area believe it or not.

I have been working with the folks on the iboats forum and they have been very helpful. If I get to a solution, I will post it up here in case anyone else runs into the same issue.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2020 9:54 pm 
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Seahorse

Joined: Sat Jun 22, 2013 9:02 am
Posts: 27
Location: Maine
Also, it would appear that I am not building fuel pressure. I bought a pressure tester and am not able to read anything on the high pressure rail. Once I was able to get it to read about 58psi, that was when I turned the key to the ON position and held the bleed off valve of the tester open while I primed the pumps a couple of times. A few bubbles passed and the pressure went up. I turned the key on to prime again and it dropped back to 0 and would not build pressure again. If I hold the bleed off valve open on the fuel pressure tester, it does pass a bunch of air bubbles as it bleeds off. It seems like its getting air into the system somewhere or is not a closed system on the high pressure fuel rail.

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