www.iFourWinns.com

I've decided to change the prop on my boat (94 Freedom 170, 3.0) since my current one is starting to look pretty ratty with chipped edges and the like. I'm going from an aluminum to a stainless steel, same size, pitch, etc. Are the props hard to remove, and if so do they require a puller? I'm pretty mechanically inclined but never hesitate to ask questions beforehand. I plan on using a new cotter pin. Is there anything problem areas I should look out for?

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Derek
94 FourWinns Freedom 170
Blue Ridge Mtns. of NC

Make sure you use the correct grease on the spline when installing your new prop to make removal easier in the future.
If you are switching from aluminum to stainless, you might want to work out a deal with your dealer about trying different pitches before you make your final choice. You are going to find a nice performance difference with a SS prop so you may want to repitch a bit.

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2001 Horizon 260 - 7.4 Volvo GSI DP

St. Louis Dave, thanks for the reply. What would be the correct grease for the prop? Also, I would expect a small performance drop going to a stainless prop from an aluminum since the stainless one should be heavier. Am I wrong in this assumption?

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Derek
94 FourWinns Freedom 170
Blue Ridge Mtns. of NC

The blades are thinner, and they weigh about the same. Expect an overall increase in top end due to less flex and thinner blades; and a very slight reduction in hole-shot performance for the same reason. Look around these forums for prop related stuff, we have many on here, especially going from Alum to SS. I would recommend trying your current pitch first. It's an easy starting point that should be very close.

Good Luck

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

I use OMC/Bombardier triple guard grease on the propshaft splines, it is a waterproof grease that even stands up to being in salt water for 6 months at a time. I'm sure Volvo and Merc have an equivalent product.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Just ask for spline grease. It's a higher waterproof quality. Once you switch to SS, you'll never go back to aluminum. You feel the difference from the hole to the top end. It's amazing how much the alum props flex.

http://www.acepropeller.com/clinic.asp
Should I spend the extra money for a stainless propeller?

In most cases, by simply making a direct conversion to stainless in the same size as your aluminum prop, you will notice an improvement in both acceleration and top speed. The reason for this is very simple, but frequently misunderstood. Stainless is seven times stronger than aluminum. Propellers don't have to be that much stronger so manufacturers can make them thinner and still be two or three times as strong. Thinner props cut through the water easier and this of course translates to better performance.
Stainless propellers generally cost a couple of hundred dollars more than an aluminum or composite propeller.
There are two situations where I don't recommend stainless over aluminum or composite: smaller outboards in pleasure applications, (because the prop can be stronger than the gear case parts) and for very occasional boaters who are happy with the existing performance of their boat.

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2001 Horizon 260 - 7.4 Volvo GSI DP

I'd add a 3rd - some people boat in waters where it's very hard to avoid beating up the prop. SS props cost a lot more to buy and a fair bit more to repair.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I tend to hit things, and beach frequently. Most of the bottom around here is made of silt, sticks and mud. That can be fairly abusive to an Alum prop, as I would have mine re-worked about once per season. I switched to SS about 4 years ago, and have not had one serviced yet under the same conditions. I've already saved the initial cost difference in maint/repair!

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

Update to a previous post I have, but related to this one......

My boat is finally repaired! First they found the shift cable damaged from rubbing against the engine, hence no forward gear. After getting it back, it would stop pushing at about 1000 rpm. That problem turned out to be only a damaged prop hub! I check mine and lube midway through the season as I have for 6 years now, and it still grenaded on me.... make sure you check this frequently!

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

Howdy,

If you're going to R&R a prop Mercury suggests using SP#101, 2-4-C but NOT spline grease. While ANY grease is better than nothing, spline grease is not really intended for water submersion.


From Mercury Manual #14:





Regards.

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1987 Four Winns Liberator 211, formerly OMC 460 King Kobra powered, replaced in 2006 by a 1997 Mercruiser 454/Bravo III

Great information, thanks to everyone for the informative replies.

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Derek
94 FourWinns Freedom 170
Blue Ridge Mtns. of NC

Changed the prop yesterday. There was plenty of grease still on the splines and it came right off without a hitch. Now if the weather will just clear up so that we can try it out.

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Derek
94 FourWinns Freedom 170
Blue Ridge Mtns. of NC

What did you end up getting for a prop?

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2001 Horizon 260 - 7.4 Volvo GSI DP

14 3/4 X 19, the same exact prop I already have except stainless. I snagged a new one on ebay for $100. It sure looks pretty

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Derek
94 FourWinns Freedom 170
Blue Ridge Mtns. of NC