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Out drive condition
https://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2589		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  Rhojo [ Fri Oct 31, 2008 8:55 am ]
Post subject:  Out drive condition
I have an '88 235 Sundowner and the out drive has been refurbished with new bellows, etc.
The exterior of the drive is in bad shape. There is exposed metal, deteriorated paint and external hardware. The skeg is equally as bad. What should I do? Replace the whole unit? Recondition the exterior somehow? What options are available for repairing a skeg? It's all a one piece unit down there.

I have been trying to educate myself on anodes and their use and placement. I'm pretty sure my boat should have 4 anodes. I can't really tell where they are from looking at the pic's in my repair manual. Does anyone have specific knowledge of these on a Sundowner from '88? I'm also almost positive that any anodes on the boat have not been replaced recently.
Author:  230 Mike [ Fri Oct 31, 2008 7:20 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Out drive condition
As long as the drive is functioning well and isn't leaking gear oil or getting water in the oil, the exterior can be made to look like new, including the skeg. The skeg needs to be done by someone who knows what they're doing - applying too much heat in the wrong areas can ruin your drive. Sounds like maybe a complete professional refurb might be in order, with a skeg repair, refinish, pressure test, u-joint check/lube.

I'm not familiar with the anode setup from those years, but someone here will be along who is :) . You can also contact the techs at http://www.dougrussell.com. They can tell you the anodes you need and give you the best price on them. Anode materials based on boat use:

Fresh water = magnesium
Salt water = zinc
Brackish water = Aluminum

If you aren't positive about their condition, replace them - trust me.
Author:  Rhojo [ Fri Oct 31, 2008 7:42 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Out drive condition
230 Mike wrote:
As long as the drive is functioning well and isn't leaking gear oil or getting water in the oil, the exterior can be made to look like new, including the skeg. The skeg needs to be done by someone who knows what they're doing - applying too much heat in the wrong areas can ruin your drive. Sounds like maybe a complete professional refurb might be in order, with a skeg repair, refinish, pressure test, u-joint check/lube.

I'm not familiar with the anode setup from those years, but someone here will be along who is :) . You can also contact the techs at http://www.dougrussell.com. They can tell you the anodes you need and give you the best price on them. Anode materials based on boat use:

Fresh water = magnesium
Salt water = zinc
Brackish water = Aluminum

If you aren't positive about their condition, replace them - trust me.


Thanks, Mike!
Oh, I'm positive that I need to locate and diagnose my anodes! I'm a green marine mechanic!

I'm just not sure if I'm looking for two screws sticking out of something on the outdirve or a worn down salt lick with screws?

I've seen anodes for sale in all kinds of shapes and configurations, for props, and in the shape of rings, even some shaped like a fish!
man, I need to find a four winns mechanic to consult!
The closest dealer is only an hour away, but they falied to reply to my first e-mail. :shock:
Author:  LouC [ Fri Oct 31, 2008 9:33 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Out drive condition
Actually what you need is an OMC Cobra mechanic, and/or the factory manuals. The Cobra drive has 4 anodes, but only 3 are easy to replace, one is located in the lower gear housing and can only be replaced by taking apart the lower unit. The other 3 are easy to change if you can get the bolts out. One is under the transom mounts (2 bolts) the next is on the front upper edge of the lower unit and looks like a horseshoe with the center filled in (two bolts), the last is a small cube shaped one at the rear end of the lower unit (1 bolt).
Check on http://www.dougrussell.com or http://www.crowleymarine.com and look in the parts section.
Author:  ht32bsx115 [ Tue Nov 04, 2008 11:44 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Out drive condition
Yeah, be careful of having a "Four Winns" mechanic (or anyone that doesn't know about the Cobras) working on your drive. My brother took his 1987 Four Winns 211 Liberator (which I have now) to a Four Winns dealer and their star mechanic drained the drive oil from the Wonderful King Cobra. The first time he didn't bother to replace the oil. :shock: My brother made it about 1/2 way around the lake before the drive froze up. :evil:

The second time (at different Four Winns dealer :? ) The genius mechanic filled the drive like a Mercruiser (from the drain) and the boat made it a little farther before the upper gears and bearings seized. :roll:

To their credit, both dealers replaced the drives with no "lawyering up", but the trips to the lake were severely curtailed each time.

If you're going to take the boat anywhere to get it fixed, ensure that you (or they) have the correct year OEM OMC Cobra service manual so you can loan it to the person doing the work. If they only have a Seloc or Clymer manual, find another service person.

You've got a 20 year old engine/drive from a company that went out of business 10 years ago.

Ensure that you find someone that knows what they're doing or they will cause more problems than they fix.


Regards,
Author:  Cap'n Morgan [ Tue Nov 04, 2008 11:50 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Out drive condition
Excellent comment and advice Rick. :!:
Author:  Rhojo [ Tue Nov 04, 2008 1:22 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Out drive condition
Thanks folks, I appreciate the information!
Author:  230 Mike [ Tue Nov 04, 2008 3:07 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Out drive condition
Sorry, my comments were meant to address only the exterior condition. I should've kept the rest to myself. :wink:
Author:  Rhojo [ Thu Nov 06, 2008 2:35 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Out drive condition
No offense taken, Mike.

Thanks for the input, I really appreciate it!
Author:  Rhojo [ Thu Nov 06, 2008 2:39 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Out drive condition
How do I identify if I have a King Cobra or Cobra outdrive?

All badges and exterior ID is worn off, I haven't gotten my engine ID yet, so I'm not sure if I've got a 2 BBl or the 4BBL, I also havent removed the arrestor to check visually. :?:

Image

Image

No snickering! I can hear you snickering!

I know it's rough looking!
Give me until this time next year and you'll see much improvment! But I have to ID it first!
Author:  ht32bsx115 [ Thu Nov 06, 2008 3:33 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Out drive condition
If your boat is an 88 your engine/drive could be an 87.

It's based on the engine model number and year.
The 87 5.7L model numbers were:

574AMFTC/574AMARY (mechanical steering)

574APFTC/574APARY (with POWER STEERING)

It's not uncommon for any boat to have last years eng/drive in it.

Your drive will hold 64oz of oil. (if it's a King Cobra drive it holds 108oz of oil)

In 87/88/89/90 the "King Cobra" was only used on the 460 and (later) 454 engines.

Your drive is a "Dog-clutch" drive. Later Cone clutch drives were also badged as "King" cobras but were not even similar to the early "King" Cobras.


Good luck!
Author:  Rhojo [ Fri Nov 07, 2008 8:05 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Out drive condition
ht32bsx115 wrote:
If your boat is an 88 your engine/drive could be an 87.

It's based on the engine model number and year.
The 87 5.7L model numbers were:

574AMFTC/574AMARY (mechanical steering)

574APFTC/574APARY (with POWER STEERING)

It's not uncommon for any boat to have last years eng/drive in it.

Your drive will hold 64oz of oil. (if it's a King Cobra drive it holds 108oz of oil)

In 87/88/89/90 the "King Cobra" was only used on the 460 and (later) 454 engines.

Your drive is a "Dog-clutch" drive. Later Cone clutch drives were also badged as "King" cobras but were not even similar to the early "King" Cobras.


Good luck!


Great info here, thanks so much, Rick!
Author:  M3eater [ Fri Nov 07, 2008 10:30 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Out drive condition
Rhojo wrote:

No snickering! I can hear you snickering!




YUCK !!

:wink: :wink:


Have you looked at those skeg repair fins? Here's a couple examples:


http://www.boatboys.com/omc.htm

and

http://skegprotector.com/

Image
Author:  Rhojo [ Fri Nov 07, 2008 10:50 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Out drive condition
M3eater wrote:
Rhojo wrote:

No snickering! I can hear you snickering!




YUCK !!

:wink: :wink:


Have you looked at those skeg repair fins? Here's a couple examples:


http://www.boatboys.com/omc.htm

and

http://skegprotector.com/

Image


I have seen them! What do you do, through bolt them to the existing skeg metal? I'll be doing this ASAP, before next season!

Man, that's a good looking drive!

Thanks Gordon!
Author:  M3eater [ Fri Nov 07, 2008 11:38 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Out drive condition
You drill through the skeg and the skeg kit comes with special through bolts that give a flush fit when installed.

Make sure you prime & paint what's left of yours, prior to the install. And, search around, there are a few different guards available. Notice how the one in the photo (on the VP drive) has a small horizontal fin at the bottom.
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