www.iFourWinns.com

I had problems with the search function and finding what I want to know.
Do you change your outdrive oil Yearly or Every other year? We use the boat about 15-25 hours a year. Most of our time is spent floating on a fairly small lake.
Thanks for the input.

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Troy
2008 Centurion Avalanche
1994 Four Winns Horizon 180 SE 5.0L OMC Cobra (Sold)
2002 Ford F150 Harley Davidson Edition (http://www.nhtoc.com) 378 hp & 465 tq at rear wheels
2008 Honda Accord EX-L w/Nav

I change mine every year. Always did on my old boat and did on the new one as well. Don't want any moisture sitting in there over the winter months. For the pirce of the oil it is worth it.

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1998 Baja Boss 252 7.4L MPI Bravo 1 (SOLD)
2007 FW H200SS 5.0GXI (Sold)
2004 Chevy Silverado 2500 Crew 6.0L (tow vehicle)
1991 FW 170 Freedom 4.3L (SOLD)

Recommended is once per year, at winterizing time (get out any potential water, prior to freezing).

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Gordon Arnold
New Hampshire

2003 268 Vista ..................................................................Prior: 97 245 Sundowner

Once per year, and prior to the last run of the year. That way I know I didn't f- it up too badly incase I have issues the next spring. My used outdrive oil is the same viscosity as the rear on my riding lawn mower, so it gets "reused" each season. I do the same with the synthetic motor oil into my riding and push mower.
Afterall, my boat is "over" maintained, so why be so wasteful about expensive oil.

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

I have always done this yearly, but after much surffing on this subject, I have found that many don't.

I don't think I am going to do it every year any more. I now believe that the only reason for changing yearly is to find water in the oil, and then get the leak fixed. This can be done by taking dipstick out and looking at oil after drive has run for some time, you either have milky oil or not.
I am not putting enough hours on motor/outdrive to justify spending cash on oil that does not get used. This is a personal choice, but this goes along the lines of when to change the motor oil in any motor, be a boat or auto. I don't believe in the 'change every 3000 miles' any more, its only profiting the oil company's. I have come to this after sending out a oil sample to a lab for analysis and seeing that I can go 10k miles before any oil breakdown, and this is using dino oil. I do run volvo synthetic in the boat motor and outdrive, so its going to be an every other year change for me.

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2000 248 5.7L DP
'92, '94 SXI 750, '08 STX 15F, '12 Ultra LX 300
Videos

Thanks Guys, I'm still up in the air about changing the oil. I don't use the boat alot but don't want to tear anything up.
I agree yearly is better but money is tight and the oil in the drive now looks like the day I put it in, so if I can push it a year then it would make it a little easier on us.
decisions decisions.
Anyone else have thoughts on this matter.

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Troy
2008 Centurion Avalanche
1994 Four Winns Horizon 180 SE 5.0L OMC Cobra (Sold)
2002 Ford F150 Harley Davidson Edition (http://www.nhtoc.com) 378 hp & 465 tq at rear wheels
2008 Honda Accord EX-L w/Nav

It is ultimately your decision. I'd prefer to change it and know that the fluid came out without a milky color (indicating water intrusion). I'd much rather pay little to know ahead of time than to pay a lot once it is too late. But that is just my take.

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Paul
2007 Four Winns Horizon 220
Mercruiser 350 Mag MPI w/ Bravo III Drive
2004 Ford Explorer Limited (V8-AWD)
Pomme de Terre Lake (Southwest Missouri)

I can agree and disagree that stretching service out will save you money. I am very adamant about tracking my funds. As a do-it-yourself 'er, I spend $150 per year doing my annual service (Change motor oil, filter, outdrive oil, and winterization). This equals 2% of my annual cost for the boat. There are other ways I could save more money than that without the potential of screwing up a weekend (or whole season) with a damaged motor.

Along the same subject, I have a .xlr spreadsheet that has all my maint and cost information. I use it for calculating total fuel cost, as well as tracking and budgeting maintenance. One day I was curious how much my boat actually cost per operating hour, so I created this to find out. If you'd like me to E-mail you that for your own use, just pm me with your E-mail address and I can send it.

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

It's fairly important to change the drive oil if you leave it in the water for long periods of time. Presumably you have more chance of water intrusion.

If you're not going to change the drive oil every year (and I don't), Then at the end of the season when you change your engine oil, drain a little out of the drive and inspect closely for water contamination. It's pretty obvious if water is getting there....

If you don't have any, then top it off and plan to change it at the end of the next season.



Regards,

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1987 Four Winns Liberator 211, formerly OMC 460 King Kobra powered, replaced in 2006 by a 1997 Mercruiser 454/Bravo III

Thanks for all the reply's. I will probably change the oil just to be safe. Better safe than sorry, right.

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Troy
2008 Centurion Avalanche
1994 Four Winns Horizon 180 SE 5.0L OMC Cobra (Sold)
2002 Ford F150 Harley Davidson Edition (http://www.nhtoc.com) 378 hp & 465 tq at rear wheels
2008 Honda Accord EX-L w/Nav