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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 10:23 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Fri Nov 07, 2008 8:33 pm
Posts: 12
I have a 98 Horizon 240 with a 5.7GSi. This past summer I had my boat dry slipped and the marina is supposed to flush the motor after every use. This is in Charleston, SC so it's in saltwater. I'm guessing they only hooked the muffs up to it and didn't run the motor to circulate the fresh water. When I got the boat home and I did a "proper" flush, I was amazed at the dark green crap that came out that later stained my whole driveway rust color. That scared the heck out of me. Is there anything you can do to combat this rust and corrosion in the motor?? My ideas below:

1) Will Zink anodes work on motor parts like the thermostat housing and manifolds?

2) Drain the water out of the motor after each use?

3) Use the VP Nuetra-salt bolt on flush kit?

Thanks
Matt
Charleston, SC


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 3:29 am 
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Joined: Thu May 18, 2006 12:31 pm
Posts: 2108
Location: Chester, UK
Matt,

I also boat in salt water, it was precisely for the reasons you are concerned about that I fitted a closed cooling system to both V8 engined boats i have had; to me, the thought of hot salt water circulating through a cast iron engine was not attractive!

My exhaust/ manifolds are still salt water cooled;I fitted a VP Neutrasalt system from new on my second boat. I just changed the manifold and riser gaskets after 4 years use; there was remarkably little rust in the water jackets, so it clearly does something. For you, this would seem a good option; no need to drain the engine after use and no chance for more salt to diffuse in.

My engine also has the factory fit fresh water flush system; it's basically a T piece fitted on the raw water pump inlet hose; easily retrofitted ( parts are listed on the Doug Russell website)

I did raise the question about engine anodes on another boating forum a few years ago; to a less than enthusiastic response, I must say! VP,Yanmar and others do fit engine anodes to their diesel engines, so they obviously have some merit. Anodes could easily be fitted into the drain plugs on the manifolds should the OEM choose ( they'd probably prefer to sell new manifolds etc !).

Graham


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 9:25 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2008 12:14 pm
Posts: 906
Location: New Hampshire
I fully agree with Graham, the Volvo Neutra-Salt system is great.

As an alternative, to having the system installed, you can purchase the Salt-Away (or other brands) flushing kit. This gives you the salt neutralizer product and a distribution unit that hooks between your hose and the flushing muffs, on your outdrive (or outboard). You just use this when you are doing your system flush after salt water use. You can also use this to spray down the trailer and the boat, after you pull out. This is what we use after we use the boat in the good ol' Atlantic.

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Gordon Arnold
New Hampshire

2003 268 Vista ..................................................................Prior: 97 245 Sundowner
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 04, 2009 3:58 pm 
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Whatever
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Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 8:39 am
Posts: 996
Location: Salt Lake, Utah
The best option is prevention, never get it wet and it will never rust!!

Really, everything is going to corrode an amount and need replacing eventually. I think if you properly flush with muffs after each use in salt water your going to be ok, if your really worried about it, then get a closed cooling system.
I know that salt water speeds up the process, but a certain amount of destruction takes place in fresh water as well, and water chemistry of each lake will affect as well.

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