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Drive bellows https://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=3135 |
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Author: | Lakebum [ Thu Apr 02, 2009 8:41 am ] |
Post subject: | Drive bellows |
328 with volvo dp-s drives and I think it's time to replace the drive bellows. Has anybody ever changed these themselves, and if so how detailed a job is it? I'm pretty handy and don't mind doing most of the maintance myself, just a little nervous when it comes to something as critical as this. Any help? |
Author: | Cap'n Morgan [ Thu Apr 02, 2009 9:03 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Drive bellows |
I have not done it myself either. I am interested in the procedure as well. In the meantime, this is a good source for many Volvo Engine/Drive related topics. http://www.marineengine.com/discus/mess ... 2487.shtml |
Author: | jsimon [ Thu Apr 02, 2009 11:43 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Drive bellows |
I changed my gimble bearing once, along with that did the drive and exhuast bellows. If you dont have an outdrive stand, its definatley a 2 man job, and I think going back on I needed a third set of hands. Obviously you have to start sometime, but having done it once myself, I would not do it again. It is to time comsuming when you dont do it enough to know the tricks IMO. |
Author: | Graham R [ Thu Apr 02, 2009 1:14 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Drive bellows |
Very straightforward; you'll need a stand or to make up a trolley of some sort . I recommend you get the VP manual . I know the one for the 1999 " WT" drives is P/N 3850075 because I bought one! Things to look out for are making sure the clamps are put on in the correct position to prevent fouling, making sure the bonding wires are under the clamps properly and to use the correct sealants and gasket cement. Plus new "O" rings on the drive input shaft and a water pipe seal. You'll need a 16mm socket to remove the 6 locknuts to split the drive drom the tilt assembly.. Access to those nuts is a little tight, I use a "Snap-On" 3/8" drive socket with a flexible coupling which works fine ( it's what appears to be in the VP manual photos!). Graham |
Author: | Lakebum [ Sun Apr 05, 2009 5:49 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Drive bellows |
Thanks for the feedback, I have checked with a few others and feel confident that I can do it myself. I'll follow up with some feedback after the job is complete. |
Author: | mkivbren [ Mon Apr 06, 2009 9:15 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Drive bellows |
It's not bad at all really. I had someone help me pull it and remount. |
Author: | 1NiceHarley [ Tue Apr 07, 2009 12:54 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Drive bellows |
Take a lot of pictures and create a how-to! ![]() |
Author: | LouC [ Tue Apr 07, 2009 5:04 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Drive bellows |
I built a stand out of left over 2x6s and used adjustable casters so I can get the height of the drive just right....nice easy project and saves your back putting it back on. |
Author: | DaleG [ Mon Apr 20, 2009 9:01 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Drive bellows |
I have not replaced the bellows on a VOLVO, but I have pulled my DP-SM drive - I just build a 2X4 -- 2X6 -- 4x4 frame and slide the drive along it - no wheels or anything special -- it worked adequately since I did not have to do anything with the drive or move it very far. I had done mercruiser drives about a half dozen times so I did know what to expect. |
Author: | Graham R [ Mon Apr 20, 2009 10:36 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Drive bellows |
I just remembered something; each time I remove the drive, I also remove the pivot housing. ( disconnect ground wire-1 bolt, remove trim sender- 2 bolts, disconnect water pipe- 1 plastic nut, remove shift cable clamp- 1 bolt and washer and remove the two 1/2" int hex bolts). Primarily I do this so I can get access to antifoul all the nooks and crannies on the transom shield, plus inside the pivot housing. This also means that access to the transom end of the bellows and the clamp/ ground wire clip is much improved when I change them. I can also grease the pivot housing bearing pads and pins (it pivots on the heads of the bolts) edit; if the convoluted exhaust bellows are fitted, they also have to be disconnected from the pivot housing; they are retained in the housing by a big, bronze internal circlip; long nosed priers can be used to remove it. Graham |
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