www.iFourWinns.com

328 with volvo dp-s drives and I think it's time to replace the drive bellows. Has anybody ever changed these themselves, and if so how detailed a job is it? I'm pretty handy and don't mind doing most of the maintance myself, just a little nervous when it comes to something as critical as this. Any help?

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Lakebum
2006 378 Vista
Nashville, TN
Current
04 Hustler Cheetah
06 Seadoo sportster 150
Past
06 378 vista
328 vista
240 horizon
21' glastron
20' celebrity

I have not done it myself either. I am interested in the procedure as well.

In the meantime, this is a good source for many Volvo Engine/Drive related topics.

http://www.marineengine.com/discus/mess ... 2487.shtml

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One of 4 Previous (Sold) Boats:
2000 Four Winns 268 Vista

Current Boat: 2004 Chaparral 235 ssi cuddy

I changed my gimble bearing once, along with that did the drive and exhuast bellows. If you dont have an outdrive stand, its definatley a 2 man job, and I think going back on I needed a third set of hands.

Obviously you have to start sometime, but having done it once myself, I would not do it again. It is to time comsuming when you dont do it enough to know the tricks IMO.

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Jeff

'14 Cruisers 380 Express "Simon Sez"
Merc 8.2 Mag MPI 380
DTS B3X, (x2) Axius Premier


(SOLD)
'08 V318
Merc 350 Mag MPI 300
DTS Seacore, B3 (x2)

Very straightforward; you'll need a stand or to make up a trolley of some sort . I recommend you get the VP manual . I know the one for the 1999 " WT" drives is P/N 3850075 because I bought one! Things to look out for are making sure the clamps are put on in the correct position to prevent fouling, making sure the bonding wires are under the clamps properly and to use the correct sealants and gasket cement. Plus new "O" rings on the drive input shaft and a water pipe seal. You'll need a 16mm socket to remove the 6 locknuts to split the drive drom the tilt assembly.. Access to those nuts is a little tight, I use a "Snap-On" 3/8" drive socket with a flexible coupling which works fine ( it's what appears to be in the VP manual photos!).

Graham

I have done the bellows on my old King Cobra drive, Very heavy!!! Last spring I did the bellows, gimbal bearing, o-rings, u-joints, and other odds & ends on current boat with a volvo DPS. I did make a stand for the drive which did make the job easier vs last time. The job can be done without a stand. I gave myself a weekend to do all the work, it didn't take that much time.



I don't think it is a very hard job, and believe that one should do smaller tasks/maintance on boat to be more familar with boat, ect..

It is recomended that the bellows be replaced every other year or so, once they get a small crack, water will get in and damage u-joints and gimbal.

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2000 248 5.7L DP
'92, '94 SXI 750, '08 STX 15F, '12 Ultra LX 300
Videos

Thanks for the feedback, I have checked with a few others and feel confident that I can do it myself. I'll follow up with some feedback after the job is complete.

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Lakebum
2006 378 Vista
Nashville, TN
Current
04 Hustler Cheetah
06 Seadoo sportster 150
Past
06 378 vista
328 vista
240 horizon
21' glastron
20' celebrity

It's not bad at all really. I had someone help me pull it and remount.

Take a lot of pictures and create a how-to!

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Troy
2008 Centurion Avalanche
1994 Four Winns Horizon 180 SE 5.0L OMC Cobra (Sold)
2002 Ford F150 Harley Davidson Edition (http://www.nhtoc.com) 378 hp & 465 tq at rear wheels
2008 Honda Accord EX-L w/Nav

I built a stand out of left over 2x6s and used adjustable casters so I can get the height of the drive just right....nice easy project and saves your back putting it back on.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I have not replaced the bellows on a VOLVO, but I have pulled my DP-SM drive - I just build a 2X4 -- 2X6 -- 4x4 frame and slide the drive along it - no wheels or anything special -- it worked adequately since I did not have to do anything with the drive or move it very far. I had done mercruiser drives about a half dozen times so I did know what to expect.

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DaleG -- West Palm Beach FL
2003 240Horizon -- 5.7Gi -Duoprop

I just remembered something; each time I remove the drive, I also remove the pivot housing. ( disconnect ground wire-1 bolt, remove trim sender- 2 bolts, disconnect water pipe- 1 plastic nut, remove shift cable clamp- 1 bolt and washer and remove the two 1/2" int hex bolts). Primarily I do this so I can get access to antifoul all the nooks and crannies on the transom shield, plus inside the pivot housing. This also means that access to the transom end of the bellows and the clamp/ ground wire clip is much improved when I change them. I can also grease the pivot housing bearing pads and pins (it pivots on the heads of the bolts)

edit; if the convoluted exhaust bellows are fitted, they also have to be disconnected from the pivot housing; they are retained in the housing by a big, bronze internal circlip; long nosed priers can be used to remove it.

Graham