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 Post subject: Water Pump in XDP drive?
PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 7:23 am 
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Goldfish

Joined: Tue Sep 08, 2009 11:34 am
Posts: 31
Hi all,

I have a 2006 vista 258 with a 5.7OSXi & XDP (fresh water cooled). I am getting ready to
winterize the motor/drive soon. From what I can see, It looks like the ONLY raw water pump is on
the motor. Is there a water pump in the outdrive?

When the boat is Pulled out of the water can I just run the motor on the flush port then put
antifreeze in throught the flush port then drain the block?

Am I missing something? If not that sound easy.

Oh yeah I'm also going to:

change engine oil & filter
change drive oil
winterize water system
fog motor
change fuel filter
remove batterys
coat motor with wd40

If any one can add to the list please let me know. Thanks

Mark W


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 7:32 am 
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268 Vista

Joined: Tue May 16, 2006 9:49 am
Posts: 4989
Location: West Michigan
Looks okay. I would remove fogging the engine and the WD-40 spray down from your list. No need to fog a fuel injected engine.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 8:10 am 
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Joined: Thu May 18, 2006 12:31 pm
Posts: 2108
Location: Chester, UK
Mark,

There is no water pump in the XDP drive. To avoid any confusion, when you write "fresh water cooled" do you mean that the engine has a heat exchanger, or that it is directly cooled by you running it in fresh (= "raw") water? Very often, when people indicate an engine is "fresh water cooled", they mean it has closed cooling.

If it does have a heat exchanger, the engine and inlet manifold are protected by an antifreeze mix, it is only the exhaust manifolds and risers that are not; in which case, it would only be the exhaust manifold plugs that need removing. Plus the anode in the heat exchanger needs checking/ replacing if more than 30% worn.

If it is a raw water cooled engine, as well as what you have indicated you'd need to drain the manifolds/ risers, plus the owners manual indicates the coolant hose to the fuel pump module should be removed, to allow it to drain. It's not clear if this is also the case on a closed cooling engine; I imagine it would be as that must get cooled by raw water rather than the hot antifreeze mix !. Also, there are 3 anodes on the XDP drive that need checking/ replacing if more than 30% worn..

After 3 years use, if it's still the original one the impellor in the raw water pump should be changed as a precaution. If the old one looks OK, keep it and the old "O" ring as spares on the boat.

WD40 tends to make things sticky and attract dirt; if you really want to spray something on the engine/ wiring, something like Boeshield T-9 is better as it leaves a non greasy film.

Graham


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 10:50 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2007 6:35 am
Posts: 359
Location: Live Manchester England, Boat Aberystwyth, Wales, UK
Graham R wrote:
WD40 tends to make things sticky and attract dirt; if you really want to spray something on the engine/ wiring, something like Boeshield T-9 is better as it leaves a non greasy film.


Graham
Is this stuff available in the UK?

(Sorry for the thread side track)

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"If we improve with age I'm now excellent"

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Lexus RX300


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 11:35 am 
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Location: Chester, UK
It is, I've seen in on E-bay, but if you source it irom the Ebay UK you'd pay about £20 an aerosol from a marine seller plus P&P! It's about 12$ in the US, about £8! There is a seller in the US on Ebay who will send it abroad for about $5 or 6.

I bought mine in Florida the last time I was there!

Maybe there's an aircraft maintenence company at Manchester airport that have it cheaper; it was designed by Boeing apparently!

Graham


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 11:48 am 
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Goldfish

Joined: Tue Sep 08, 2009 11:34 am
Posts: 31
Thanks guys.....Yes it has a heat exchanger. I won't use the the wd-40. I will
get Boeshield T-9. I got a new impeller and will replace that in the spring.

I shouldn't fog the motor? Here in NJ thay(the marina's) fog everything. I had
4 strok outboards and I didn't fog them.....so it make sense. :D

Should I take the outdrive off for the winter? How do you take it off?
I don't see any bolts that look like it would take the drive off.

Thanks I love this sight!!!


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 12:00 pm 
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268 Vista

Joined: Tue May 16, 2006 9:49 am
Posts: 4989
Location: West Michigan
mwitkowski wrote:

Should I take the outdrive off for the winter? How do you take it off?
I don't see any bolts that look like it would take the drive off.



Why in heavens name would you want to take the drive off for the winter??
To service it , and put it back on , yes, if needed.

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One of 4 Previous (Sold) Boats:
2000 Four Winns 268 Vista
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Current Boat: 2004 Chaparral 235 ssi cuddy
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Last edited by Cap'n Morgan on Fri Oct 09, 2009 2:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 2:19 pm 
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Location: Chester, UK
Presumably like the DPS, the XDP should have the UJs. gimbal bearing, alignment checked yearly; the only way to do that properly is to remove it, plus it allows a thorough inspection of the bellows, which are prone to failure on the XDP from what I can gather.

Graham


Last edited by Graham R on Sat Oct 10, 2009 3:15 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 5:24 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
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Location: Long Island NY
It's best to follow the procedure in the manual as far as fogging goes...I always fog my old carb motor...but the newer FI motors require a different procedure...if you have closed cooling it's much easier to winterize...
I recommend always checking the bellows for water and the drive oil for water...these things if neglected will cost thousands and the fixes are not that expensive...

One thing that should be kept in mind is that any sterndrive boat is by nature very maintenance intensive...yes the engine itself is simpler than an outboard but everything else is more complex and in need of frequent maintenance...we are spoiled by modern cars that need little maintenance...

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 5:38 pm 
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Location: Chester, UK
Lou,

Well summarised !

Graham


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 7:24 am 
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Location: Long Island NY
Thanks Graham
BTW if you can get Corrosion X or Fluid Film over there they would be just as good as Boeshield....
I used the Corrosion X HD (much thicker fluid than any of the above) on my trailer springs...ubolts...etc and that stuff really hangs in there...but too messy and drippy to spray on the engine...

The most important thing to spray...which you can't really see...is the whole bottom surface of the oil pan...these are just painted steel so the pan and timing chain cover do rust through if there is water always in the bilge...I sprayed em good a number of times......

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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