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| Author: | millhaven_nice_guy [ Tue Apr 06, 2010 11:36 am ] |
| Post subject: | Removing Drive? |
I need a quick tutorial on how to remove the drive.... Specifically what to do with the wires, shift linkage, bellows and whatever else. I know there are several bolts to remove. I want to replace the u-joints and inspect the bellows. Is there a gasket required between the drive and the transom assembly? ANybody have a exploded view or procedure from a manual? |
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| Author: | LouC [ Tue Apr 06, 2010 3:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Removing Drive? |
I've done it for a number of years now every season to check things out in the fall and lube the ujoints and splines and check for water in the bellows...I built a stand to hold it and that will save your back because they are heavy--if I recall right yours is a King Cobra cone clutch which is BIG compared to a plain Cobra...so make a stand (take a look in the I/O forum at iboats for some ideas...mine is there.....) Then see if you can get a manual....best bet is ebay...the basic procedure is throttle in neutral put stand under the drive loosen the 6 nuts that hold it on the pivot housing remove on nut on the trim ram rod and push the rod through the drive to relase the rams... them remove the nuts that hold on the drive... pull back and hope it comes off...(it will if the driveshaft splines are not corroded in the coupler) now there could be some differences because this procedure is for the plain dog clutch Cobra... check out this link....does yours look like this? http://www.dougrussell.com/partscatalog ... ,1586,1587 http://www.dougrussell.com/partscatalog ... ,1586,1587 this procedure is for the standard Cobra but its probably similar.... http://support.crowleymarine.com/entrie ... ve-removal |
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| Author: | millhaven_nice_guy [ Tue Apr 06, 2010 4:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Removing Drive? |
Thanks Lou! I actually want to pull the drive of my bowrider which is a Duoprop. I am surprised that more people here haven't replied. I knew you would come through though. I won't need the stand though I plan on using the pallet forks on my tractor! Anybody else with a Duoprop have any suggestions. |
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| Author: | 230 Mike [ Tue Apr 06, 2010 6:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Removing Drive? |
Oh, I also assumed you were talking about the KC. On the DuoProp I haven't taken mine off myself, but I know there isn't a gasket (there is one between the transom and transom shield). Everyone who has done it says they're heavy, so be prepared for that. Take the props off first to reduce the weight and reduce the risk of anything happening to them. If I were doing it I'd also drain it first. I would expect to remove the 6 nuts and pretty much have it come off, other than possible bellows clamps. Not sure if care needs to be taken with trim sender wires. |
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| Author: | acguy [ Tue Apr 06, 2010 6:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Removing Drive? |
Check this one help it's got great pics http://www.boatered.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=108297 As far as parts this is what I get every year when I pull my drive. Gasket P# 3889788 Oring on Drive shaft x2 P# 3852565 These are both volvo part #. Also replace the O'rings for the dip stick and gear lube drain and the vent if you remove any of them. Should be a good start to the info your looking for Mike |
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| Author: | 230 Mike [ Tue Apr 06, 2010 6:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Removing Drive? |
What gasket is that? |
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| Author: | acguy [ Tue Apr 06, 2010 8:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Removing Drive? |
230 Mike wrote: What gasket is that? If you click the link I found and look at the the first pic. The gasket would go between the 2nd and 3rd bolt on the port side. Not exactly sure but I think it has to do with the raw water cooling....But not not 100% sure. |
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| Author: | powellcrazy [ Tue Apr 06, 2010 9:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Removing Drive? |
On my 2000 DPS, there are no gaskets, 2 o-rings. You don't have to worry about the trim sender, that is not part of the drive you are dropping, it is part of the transom unit. I would still think that a drive stand would be beneficial, as you may need casters that will allow to move stand side to side to get alignment when reinstalling as a fork lift or tractor may be hard to get in position. here is mine. 
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| Author: | Graham R [ Wed Apr 07, 2010 2:55 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Removing Drive? |
On a 2001 drive SX/ DPS (actually 1999 on) , the trim ram rods are retained by E-clips, not nuts. The seal is for the raw water inlet. It's meant to be glued in place in the groove; stops it slipping out of place un-noticed as the drive is refitted. You'll also need to disengage the shift cable from the drive; it's retained with a split pin/ washer on the cube nut (shift adjustment is via this cube nut, which is threaded onto the shift cable). Use a new split pin on reasembly. When the trim cylinders are disengaged, tie them up to support them/ avoid undue strain on their hoses. Reassemble all metal to metal parts/ linkages and the trim cylinder rods with plenty of waterproof grease. Ensure the driveshaft bellows is sitting correctly in it's groove in the tilt assembly. Apply a light coat of grease to it's face. Lightly grease the end of the outdrive "nose"; sealing of the outdrive to the driveshaft bellows is attained by the "nose" being pushed into the end of the bellows as the 6 nuts are tightened. Use molybdenum disulphide grease on the splines, engine oil on the 2 driveshaft O rings. VP white sealing compound on the 6 studs, to prevent any corrosion seizing the drive in place. Put the drive in gear; it allows you to move the propshafts; hence input shaft, to get the splines to line up. The 6 nuts are tightened to 25 ft/lbs initially, then to 50 ft/ lbs. This is done in a criss cross pattern, starting with the centre ones (1 + 2). Incidentally, U/Js are not available anymore from VP, only the whole driveshaft assembly (the fitting of which which requires partical outdrive dismantling and possible reshimming). 2 types of U/Js were used, which are not interchangeable; earlier ones used external C-clips on the bearing housing to retain them, later ones used internal circlips in the carrier/ shaft bores.The U/Js on mine (2004) are made by GKN but no part number is present, just "GKN" and "3D"; aftermarket ones may still be available. Graham |
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| Author: | 97_245_sd [ Mon Apr 12, 2010 11:23 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Removing Drive? |
Downloadable VP service manuals (engine and drive) can be found on the iBoats forums: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?p=2360521#post2360521 |
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| Author: | millhaven_nice_guy [ Mon Apr 12, 2010 2:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Removing Drive? |
Thanks for all your responses... I have yet to pull the drive. I haven't had time yet but will be looking at all these posts when i do get around to it. |
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| Author: | 230 Mike [ Mon Apr 12, 2010 4:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Removing Drive? |
Here you go... 
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