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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 3:31 pm 
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Minnow

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Ok, here's the deal, I have a rattling noise (light knocking) that increases with RPM's. This noise is produced in forward, reverse and neutral. When I hang head over the stern (drive) the sound does not appear to come from it. When I open engine compartment it is not as strong either. The noise seems to be coming from the center of the boat. That where it is the loudest (When I place my ear against the deck) (floor). oh yea, its a 1998 Sundowner 205 with a VP 5.0 and Cobra SX drive. :?


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 4:37 pm 
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230 Mike
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I'd say, either gimbal bearing or u-joints, conceivably both. They're all turning even in neutral.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2010 10:24 am 
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GIDDY UP

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True dat.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2010 11:02 am 
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Brent87LT1 wrote:
True dat.


+1 Agreed on the diagnosis. Anywhere from $400 to $900 to replace both and all related parts at a dealer/marina. Less if you have the tools and knowledge to do it yourself.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2010 1:07 pm 
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Minnow

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another ? I tried to grease the gimbal (zirk) fitting and put in about 20 pumps. How much grease should this take? Does it come out another end like it would a u-joint?


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2010 4:27 pm 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
When pumping into the gimbal bearing it should reach a point where you feel resistance in the gun. If you don't ever get there, it's probably because the bearing seals are blown out (which happens because someone didn't STOP pumping when they felt the resistance at some point in the past). Normally it shouldn't take more than a few pumps, assuming it's been maintained regularly.

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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 8:42 am 
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Doing some research here as I was going to replace my gimball bearing and bellows (do i need to do u joints too?) as I have some rough sound when engine is on and turning. My buddy thought the power steering pump.

I have never done either and bought the boat last summer and only know the impeller was done.

Boat runs great except for the new sounds when turning. Should I try and grease the gimball over replacing?

Parts List (missing anything?)
Gimball Bearing
Bellows
U-Joints (debating replacing)

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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 12:44 pm 
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Follow up question, when removing the stern drive to do the gimball and bellows, do you have to disconnect the shift cable and have the throttle in forward?

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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 2:25 pm 
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Yes (disconnect), and no ( forward gear); on the VP drive, the cable from the shifter is connected directly to the linkage on the upper unit.

Graham


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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 5:21 pm 
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Any suggestions on what tool (sears?) to use to install the gimball bearing? Graham gave me some advice but not sure I have anything that meets the needs.

Thanks

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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 6:35 pm 
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Whatever
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PDACPA wrote:
Any suggestions on what tool (sears?) to use to install the gimball bearing? Graham gave me some advice but not sure I have anything that meets the needs.

Thanks



Tools to remove drive, 6 pt, 5/8" shallow socket, 3/8" drive. Drive dolly.
ImageImage
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=86983&group_ID=324&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Once drive is off, you will need a bearing puller with slide hammer to pull gimbal bearing out.

Next, you will need special bearing installation tool to press bearing into place. If bearing is damaged during installation and you will be doing job again in no time at all. I made an installation tool out of nylon to "oh so carefully" push bearing into place. You want to only apply force need to install bearing to the outer bearing race. If you push on the inner race bearing damage can occur.

Grease bearing while drive is out to see grease zerk is working properly and bearing is properly lubed. A few pumps on a grease gun should do it, rotate bearing between grease pumps for even coating. You will know when you have enough, it oozes out the cage.

Inspect U-joints, and bellows, if ok, reinstall drive.

replace 6 nuts that hold drive on.

I did all this to my boat 2 years ago
Volvo gimbal bearing $64
bellows $46
U-joints $134 / pcs (qty of 2 needed)

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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 6:56 pm 
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And if you do the greasing each season...those parts can last well over 15 years...my boat has had one gimble replacement and is running on the original ujoints...22 years old...and the only reason why the gimble was replaced was that I had a small leak in the bellows a few years back...we caught it at the end of the season and saved the ujoints...replaced the gimble as a precaution...

this is why I/Os should have a yearly drive pull and inspection...you catch problems before they become big and by keeping up on the greasing you never have a driveshaft rusted into a coupler and a drive that won't come off...it happens more than you might think.....

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PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 9:55 am 
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I didnt know you could grease the gimball without taking the drive off. Bought the boat last year so no idea if it was done or not.

how?

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PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 10:12 am 
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Location: Chester, UK
There's a "zerk" in a recess about half way up the transom shield on the starboard side. Or at least there should be if it or the tube it screws into have not fallen out. If you're not taking the outdrive off, you should have the engine running (out of gear!) as you pump in some grease, to distribute it within the bearing.

Graham


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PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 12:32 pm 
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Can it be seen in this picture?

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