www.iFourWinns.com

Hello - I have a 248 Vista with a Volvo 5.7 GS motor. I went to replace the impeller today, but ran into a snag.

I removed all three screws from the cover, but can't seem to figure out how to get it off. There seems to be a bracket holding the pump but I can't see where to unbolt it or get the housing off.

Is there a trick I am missing?

I will try to post a picture of the pump.



Thanks!

There is a bracket holding the impeller housing in place. It's held on by two bolts, IIRC, its a 10mm bolt head.

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2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

Fire - Are the bolts to the front somewhere or on the back? I felt all around and couldn't feel any bolts to remove, but maybe I missed something.

I will give things another look on Sat. Thanks.

The bolts for the bracket on mine are almost behind the top hose on the impeller housing. Just do some feeling around. Also take another look there should be 4 screws hold the cover on to get at the impeller if you have the same setup as I do.

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2001 328 Vista "Nauta Dream 2"
AB Inflatable 10AL "Little Dreamer"
2000 248 Vista
1997 225 Sundowner


Mike

See part #3 at http://tinyurl.com/2dnh5co . This probably isn't your exact engine, but it's a similar 5.7 and you should have a bracket that looks very much like that. Part #7 is a rubber tip that just rides in between the two tubes on the impeller housing.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

That rubber tip on the bracket obscures the 4th bolt !

I found the bracket a real pain to remove/ refit, as access to the 2 bolts can be awkward on the earlier brackets, depending on the boat engine compartment. I did post some time ago about a mod I made to the bracket on mine; basically cutting it so one part stays permanently attached to the block. Another piece of steel attached to that part, the other half of the bracket is attached to the other end if that second piece of steel. Actually, the second piece of steel is dowelled and has studs ( pointing forwards) that the pump end of the bracket locates on.

So, all I have to do is remove 2 easily accessable nuts and the pump end of the bracket just lifts off .

Graham

ps M5 or the equivalent US thread stainless cap heads are easier to remove/ refit than the standard bolts.

pps I recommend you glue the rubber tip onto the end of the bracket, as it is easy to lose it !

On a similar note, does anyone know what the consequences of not having the rubber boot on the bracket would be? When I purchased my boat and went to replace the impeller, there was a bunch of sticky black goo all over the end of the bracket and the pump housing. I left it for two years, but finally got tired of getting it all over my tools and hands when I serviced it, so I cleaned it all off assuming the previous owner was using this to reduce wear or something.

Now I just have the metal bracket but no rubber boot. I haven't seen any wear or heard any rattle. Just thought I'd check to see if anyone has had a bad experiance not using a rubber.............boot!

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2001 Four Winns Horizon 180LE, VP 4.3GL/SX
2006 Ford F-150 Extended Cab 4x4, 5.4L

On my 5.0...you dont have to take the bracket off. I simply take out the 4 bolts and use a rubber mallet to tap on the housing while I pull it forward...works like a charm.

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Current Boat:
2004 Sea Ray 320 Sundancer "Nauti Luvin'"

Previous Boats:
1999 298 Vista "Seas The Day"
2008 H200SS "Nauti Luv"
2006 Tahoe Q4

The bracket is there to stop the pump rotating, the rubber part just cushions the bronze pump housing from the steel bracket. Each time the engine is started the rotation of the impellor will push the pump onto the steel; the rubber hoses will dampen this movement to some extent as well though.

Later pumps are easier as they have an additional lug cast on the pump body and a bent rod type retainer, the end of the rod locates into the lug to stop the pump body rotating.

Graham

I'd recommend replacing that tip. Not a crisis situation though.

Graham, do you have any pics of that bracket mod? I've thought about doing something similar but would like to see how you did it. On the 230/240, there's lots of room in front of the engine to do an impeller change, but it sits rather far down relative to the floor - so its a bit back-breaking changing the impeller, mostly because of that bracket.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Mike,

I should be finishing off the boat this weekend before it goes in the water next Thurdsday or friday; I'll try to take some photos, if this rain will ever stop!

Graham

Quick update - I tried again, and this time found the bolts. They were painted over so very tough to see.

It seems almost impossible to get the bolts off without removing the hoses. Is that what needs to be done? I didn't have time to mess with it, just took a glance.

Is there any tricks? Remove the hoses from the pump? or from the other end?


Thanks in advance guys, I know I have been a pain recently with all the questions.



Thanks,

Which bolts? The ones holding the housing cover on, or the retaining bar in place? If the latter, just use a 6" extension and you'll be fine.

_________________
2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

I have the 5.7 and here is a photo looking down. My hoses are always off when I change the impeller in the spring due to the shop that winterizes, disconnects them all and it does make getting at the pump housing easier. I changed all of my painted bolts holding the housing on to stainless allen head type (just not in this photo) bolts to make it easier on me. I always have to wiggle the housing pretty hard to get it to break loose before pulling it off and you can see the black bar on mine that keeps the housing from rotating. A little different design from the photo that Mike posted.

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2008 H210SS VP 5.7 Gi/SX
2011 Ford F150 FX4 EB

An observation; The bolts in the photo are a lot longer than on the earlier pumps, which are ca 1/2" long. Also, the pump inlet/ outlet stubs are cast in/ bronze, whereas on the earlier ones they are plastic; either an interference fit, or bonded to the pump body.

Graham