www.iFourWinns.com

As not to still acguy's topic, I started my own. Ive got a a question, Im pretty sure my gauge works, but I was wondering if "up" on the trim gauge actually means the drive is all the way up, or just as high as FW wanted the boat to run on the water?

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1990 Horizon 200
5.7L OMC Cobra 260HP

Typically up truly means up. They leave it up to you to figure out the best trim angle for different running profiles.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Ok. because "up" does not mean all the way up for me. Down is good, but the gauge goes up, but will stay on "up" while I continue to raise the drive. Think this is because of the trim sensor?

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1990 Horizon 200
5.7L OMC Cobra 260HP

Since the sender is adjustable in the drive itself you can actually set it to be how you prefer it. I personally set mine so that then the gage shows in the exact middle the drive is parallel to the bottom of the boat. I trim by feel and full up or full down on the gage may not be exactly where the drive is, but at least I know level is always the same.

By the way, I don't think they are completely accurate all the time anyway. Some times when I trim up or down the gage doesn't move while the drive is moving.

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Terry
Current: 07 Crownline 255 CCR cuddy - 350 Mag MPI/B3 "Casi Cielo"

Previous:97 245 Sundowner 5.7GI/SX

Tow vehicle: 1986 GMC 2500 Camper Special 454/TH400

I like the way mine came from the factory - it gives me a pretty accurate reading through the "operating" range; once I raise it above that, I just listen for the upper limiter. I couldn't care less if the top of the gauge corresponds to the upper limit, I only care about the bottom third of the gauge.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I agree with Mike; I adjust mine so that when the drive is as far down as it can go, the gauge reads zero; on my boat, the useful range is only a few degrees above that full down position. Once its up beyond the useable range, there's no reason to have a display telling you that , as the noise from the U/Js tell you it's raised too much !

Graham

How do I adjust it?

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1990 Horizon 200
5.7L OMC Cobra 260HP

Sorry, for your drive I don't know. I expect LouC will be along shortly to advise!

Graham

How do you adjust it on the 4.3 Volvo SX drive? Mine is stuck at the very top of the gauge and not moving at all.

Thanks

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2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4

It's the 2" round circular thing on the starboard side of the gimbal ring. The actuator fits into the end of the pivot pin. 2 bolts/ semi circular washers hold the sender in place., the holes in the sender are elongated to allow for adjustment. If it isn't right at either end of the adjustment range, it will need to be removed and refitted with the actuator in a different position relative to the pivot bolt. Be very careful when removing it, as the 2 piece actuator on later ones can break.

I have to tell you they do fail on a regular basis!

Graham

Well since I had the mechanic do the gimball and ujoints he either broke it or didnt hook it back up. Sounds like the stern drive has to come off to adjust. I will let him know he needs to fix it, but with Memorial Day weekend upon us, I will get it done after. I can look over my shoulder and hear where the engine is!

Thanks Graham you are a wealth of knowledge!

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2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4

No..........The stern drive doesn't have to come off to adjust or change it. Also, the mechanic would not have had to remove it or adjust it to do the gimbal bearing and U/Js, unless he removed the tilt housing to gain better access to the gimbal bearing, which is in the transom shield ( I boat in salt water, I do that each year, to antifoul the inside of the tilt housing and transom shield; it makes access whan refitting bellows a lot easier as well).

To adjust it, slacken off the two retaining bolts and rotate the time sender housing a bit at a time.

If the range of adjustment isn't there, you have to remove it and refit, there's only quite a narrow operating range on the later senders, so it has to be fitted correctly to have a chance to work.;Remove the 2 bolts and crescent shaped washers. The trim sender housing and actuator should pull out. You can test it by rotating it slowly and seeing if the trim gauge responds. If you're lucky and it still works, all you have to do is rotate the actuator appropriately and refit it; the actuator fits into the splines in the end of the pivot bolt. The hexagon actuator sticks in place sometimes and breaks in 2, as I found out the first time I removed mine, that has the revisted actuator which you'rs probably has. If it does break, it's possible to transfer over that part from a new trim sender, so you don't have to change the whole thing. I did that and also filed down the sides of the actuator to more of a taper ( and refit with plenty of waterproof grease) , so it doesn't get stuck anymore.

Graham

PS there is a connector close to the port exhaust manifold/ rocker cover; a cylindrical black thing. You can pull it apart and use a multimeter set to Ohms to see if the sender is at fault.

Looking for a picture as I am not sure where it is located and my manual is in my garage.

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2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4

If you look at the photo you posted on the 13th May ( in the thread about gimbal bearing noise), its the circular thing vertically above the trim cylinder attachment to the pivot housing, about level with the end of the trim cylinder body.

Graham

Is the red arrow pointing to where you are saying the trim sensor is located?

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2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4