www.iFourWinns.com

Maybe someone has some ideas (I did a search and found one thread on topic but need more ideas).

Used the boat quite a bit the past two weekends. Heading back to the marina and in a no wake, engine suddenly dies. Turn the key, nothing happens. Hit the blower accessory and it comes on. Figure ok, battery is working. Look under helm and the ignition fuse (15a) is blown. Pull it out and stick another in. Turn the key the engine starts and then dies. Same fuse blows. Check the safety cut off and all wires on the ignition module. All seems tight, no corrosion or worn wires. Another fuse, engine starts and then cuts off. So I lay under there with the boat in neutral and a new fuse and turn the key. Engine starts and I see the little spark as the fuse blows. This was fuse 5 or 6 and a little puff of smoke. So I stop and get a fisherman to tow me to the nearest dock. Once at the dock (maybe half hour or so),I check the engine, batteries, wiring, etc and see nothing. I put another fuse in and the engine fires and runs perfect. Drive back to the marina (15 min some idle some at 25mph or so) and put it on the trailer. After dinner, I go clean it up and hook up the hose and flush the engine and fire it up with the hose running. Let it run for a while and again, works fine.

I checked the ground to the engine (per a post) and it feels tight. I could not see it, but will investigate some more tonight. I looked at all the wiring that I could see and nothing appears burnt, or rubbing on a screw or anything. All spade wiring connectors on ignition look ok and are tight. This happened once before when my starter went bad, and I have a brand new starter and ran for months without the issue.

Anyone have any ideas on what to look at? Could the ignition module (correct term?) (where the key goes) have a short?

Thanks

_________________
2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4

When a wire corrodes it'll increase resistance. This leads to the wire starting to overheat. Eventually that leads to the load being pulled high enough to cause a fuse to blow. That and the resistance is usually higher when the wire is hot. To have it 'go away' after a while seems like a strong indicator for it being an overheated wire somewhere.

Debugging electrical gremlins is a huge pain in the ass. Start by eyeing up both the positive and negative wires to the engine and ignition. Be on the lookout for any signs of corrosion or brittle-ness to the wires. Be especially mindful of anywhere the insulation could get cracked. Corrosion at the connections is hard enough to see, but it can happen in-line within the wire too, but usually only when the insulation on it is damaged (or the boat was submerged).

Did your old starter die because it was staying engaged, and thus overheating? It can be really hard to hear if a starter is stuck running. But the solenoids in them can get stuck and cause the starter to stay running. Feel the starter wires to make sure they're not overheating.

_________________
-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

Thanks for the info Bill.

The old starter started to fail and became an issue when it got wet due to a plug being forgotten. I suspect the saltwater caused it to get stuck and probably overheated the wires and popped the fuse. Mechanic put a new starter in and it has not been an issue since. The fuse popping is few and far between but happens. Mechanic did not say there was any issue with the wires. I replaced the starter 2 weeks after getting the old one wet.

I will check them to be sure and the engine ground (feels tight but cannot see due to location.

_________________
2010 Sea Hunt Triton 220 "Big Whiskey"
2003 FW Freedom 180 Volvo Penta 4.3GL/SX-M "It'll Do Four Now" (Sold)
2012 Avalanche LTZ 4X4

Bill,

If the wire is corroded, as you wrote the resistance increases, there's basically less conductor there. So, at the end of the corroded wire connected to the load the voltage will have dropped. That means that, yes, it may overheat, but the actual current passing through it and anything in series with it will decrease. ( I = V/ R etc). Then, as it heats up the resistance will decrease ( most metals increase conductivity/ decrease resistance as they heat up, as the electrons can move easier).

Graham