www.iFourWinns.com

Wondering what you guys are putting in your engines?

I have a 97 7.4 VP gm big block.

Operations manual calls for SAE30 service grade SG and CE.

Is there a newer API service letters since this engine is 13 years old they must of made some better stuff since then.

I find the oil they sell at the dealers or marinas to be a little overpriced.

Thanks for the info

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97 258 vista 7.4 VP/DP......... 2008 GMC Yukon XL Denali


96 sundowner 5.7 vp/sx (SOLD)

You'll get 50 different opinions with a question like that. It's really up to you.

That age of boat probably did not have synthetic in it when new. But who knows what
has been in the engine before you bought it. Synthetic sure would not hurt, but you will
pay top dollar for it. I have always used straight 30W with no problems. But again, it's
your choice ultimately.

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One of 4 Previous (Sold) Boats:
2000 Four Winns 268 Vista

Current Boat: 2004 Chaparral 235 ssi cuddy

Anyone have the # of liters needed in this engine?

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97 258 vista 7.4 VP/DP......... 2008 GMC Yukon XL Denali


96 sundowner 5.7 vp/sx (SOLD)

7.6 liters (8 quarts)
** Capacities are approximate, always use dipstick to determine exact quantity of oil **

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One of 4 Previous (Sold) Boats:
2000 Four Winns 268 Vista

Current Boat: 2004 Chaparral 235 ssi cuddy

I would say of the 50 different opinions, you will probably find that royal purple or mobile 1 30w synthetic are the most popular choices. As Cap'n stated, use the dipstick as you don't want to under- or over-fill the oil.

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'99 Horizon 200

If Mobil 1 had a straight 30W, no doubt it would be the standard marine oil. But they only have multi-weights.

I placed my order yesterday for VP oil (Amsoil), drive lube, filters, etc.

Stand by now for the annual argument about which brand, which weight, "don't change it until you've had it analyzed," BOB, etc., et al., ad nauseum...

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

You don't have to use the VP syn stuff esp in an engine that age....I'd use a heavy duty straight 30 like Chevron Delo 400, Shell Rotella T or Pennzoil Marine...all would be cheaper than the VP syn stuff....

the Chevron and the Rotella are diesel rated oils....if they are good enough for a Cummins or a Powerstroke they for sure are good enough for a maine inboard...

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

So basically any SAE 30 would be good the service grade does not mater?

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97 258 vista 7.4 VP/DP......... 2008 GMC Yukon XL Denali


96 sundowner 5.7 vp/sx (SOLD)

Yep pretty much any good straight 30 will be fine and much better than using a multi-vis 10w-30....I like the heavy duty diesel rated oils as I mentioned above...they hold up well and cost a bit more but not as much as the Volvo syn...in an older engine I do not see the wisdom of syn anyway...and I have read through some Volvo owners manuals...they suggest the use of syn but do not REQUIRE it...so I'd still use the Chevron, Rotella T or Penn Marine if I had a newer Volvo...

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Does everyone remove the vertical drive each year to lube the universal joints?

I have to change the exhaust bellows I guess it would be accessible at the same time?

Not too sure I want to go taking that thing off??? Any reason I should not risk it? Seems pretty straight forward.

For replacing the Dup Props I didn't notice how the were installed when I took them off and the owners manual is not too clear but from what I can see you need to align the blades of both props? Is that correct?

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97 258 vista 7.4 VP/DP......... 2008 GMC Yukon XL Denali


96 sundowner 5.7 vp/sx (SOLD)

Well on any sterndrive I think you should be checking the drive shaft bellows for water, lube the ujoints and gimble bearing (then you can see the grease coming out of the bearing) and take a look at the seal on the input shaft. It's also the only way to lube the driveshaft splines. I do this once a year and it's helped me to avoid problems. Also on the VP Duo Props you need to remove the props once a season and grease the shaft or else they can get corroded on and cause you much grief to remove. I use OMC/Bombardier triple guard grease on the prop shaft, drive shaft and Pennzoil Marine Wheel Bearing grease for the gimble and ujoints. Some later model Volvos do not have grease fittings on the ujoints, a step backwards in my opinion....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I have it removed every year to inspect the bellows and grease the coupler splines, even though I have "maintenance free" U-joints.

On prop alignment, some believe they should be "timed" such that when the blade of one prop is at 12 o'clock, the other prop points to 10:00 & 2:00. The idea is that there will be less disruption (ventilation) in the passing water if two blades don't pass each other while inline with the drive or skeg. I've done some informal comparisons of running with them timed and untimed, and couldn't detect any difference.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Well Rotella T it will be. My auto part dealer had a special on shell products. Its funny the shell bottle says for diesel engines and the mobil and chevron bottles with the same oil and specs says for diesel and gas engines???

On a different note I did not read anything on fogging. Is running the engine with conditioner in it enough?

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97 258 vista 7.4 VP/DP......... 2008 GMC Yukon XL Denali


96 sundowner 5.7 vp/sx (SOLD)