www.iFourWinns.com

It's well after the fact now, but can anyone tell me if it was critical that I open the drain plugs on a Volvo Penta 5.7GiE last fall? I ran AF through the engine, but I'm concerned that I may have missed this step when winterizing for my first time.

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Paul Dauwer
Bunch of Time
Hingham, MA

2004 Vista 268 - VP 5.7iE

Whether or not it's critical depends on who you talk to. I went through this same thing last fall when winterizing for the first time and the responses varied from "it's a critical, if you don't do anything else at least pull the plugs" to "don't worry about it, if you flush with AF and have pink coming out the back you're fine". The VP winterization guide says to pull the thermostat, reassemble the housing, and run pink with the engine running...it even says draining the block is not necessary providing you pull the therostat when flushing the engine with AF.

In the end I ended up pulling the drain plugs and then manually filling the system with AF through the cooling hoses. Fired it up yesterday and all appears to be fine. I'd say look over your engine and make sure you see nothing obviously wrong. Then put it on muffs and fire it up while keeping a close eye on it. Let it run for about 15 minutes or so while watching the engine and your guages. I think those 15 minutes with it running will let you know if you're safe or not.

I'm sure Lou or Capt Morgan will chime in and they're much more experienced than me on this. They may be able to offer some additional insight.

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'01 Vista 298

I did try it that way the first time, and what I found was that not too much AF got into the block. Fortunately I checked the block drains and found that out before the block froze. I know some people have done this without problems, but here in salt water land thermostats get stick and they do not always close all the way. That makes the engine take longer to warm up, which makes the thermo not open for a while. Then you don't get a full shot of AF in the block. Now if you removed the thermo as Volvo said, it might work fine.
Back to my first experience, I just drained the block and manifolds and back filled them, and I've done it that way ever since. Yes it takes a bit longer, but then no worries.
I would not be against doing this method with closed cooling, but on a raw water cooled sterndrive, unless you remove the thermo you are taking a chance. To paraphrase Clint "do ya feel lucky?"....
The other drawback to this method, is sometimes seen on engines with an engine mounted impeller. The AF/water mix is more dense than just water. Unless your impeller is in top shape, it may not pull the AF/water mix all the way up the engine from the drive water intakes. That can overheat the engine and burn the impeller and ruin your day. It's possible to rig up one of those winterizing tanks with a baitwell or large bilge pump, to pressurize the AF/water mix to the muffs, and that could help. On an engine with closed cooling this would work fine.


I also like to take the plugs out each season because then they don't get rusted in place. I put some marine grease or OMC gasket sealer on em to make sure they always come out...

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I always have. Its amazing how much water the block can hold. I then take off the hoses on the thermostat housing and back fill the block full of antifreeze. I then quick remove each drain plug to be sure pink comes out, which it does.

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2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

I hope this is not considered a hijack, but I would like a few opinions about winterizing. I have always drained all the water from the engines entirely and left them dry. If there is a down side to this method, I am not sure how to go about filling the engines with RV antifreeze. Dan

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Current Boat: 1994 278 Four Winns Vista

There's a lot of debate on this point, but really properly draining is the safest way to winterize. You add antifreeze to keep out air, which does reduce corrosion. I don't know for sure if this would make any difference on a boat used in freshwater. I do add antifreeze and I think it helps in boats used in brackish or salt water. After draining, you replace the drain plugs and then reconnect the bottom of the big hose on the front water circulation pump, you fill the block and heads through that hose till AF comes out the thermo neck on the engine, then reconnect the top end of that hose. Then you fill the manifolds through the hose that goes to the thermo housing, till you hear AF run out the exhaust (this is why you must use no tox AF, regular AF is very toxic to animals). Then you disconnect the raw water intake and fill it till AF comes out the water intakes (may not work on a Volvo or Bravo because the impeller on the engine may stop it from running back through the hose to the transom). The basic idea is that corrosion (iron oxide) requires oxygen to take place. Fill up the engine with AF with corrosion inhibitors, you remove the oxygen. But just draining, really is fine.....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II