www.iFourWinns.com

I was wondering if those plugs that are on the manifold and the engine need to be opened to let out the water after every use or is this just done when you are winterizing your boat. I run in salt water and the engine is a volvo penta 5.7 which is run on fresh water through the muffs 15 to 20 minutes after every use. Has anyone used the closed cooling system and if so is that the best way to go? Also been looking at that Nutra Salt system anyone have that installed on their boat. Thanks for your replies.

One would think that clsoed cooling would be a better option since you are boating in salt water. At the very least, I would suggest running Salt-Away, or a similar product, through the system if you aren't already doing so when flushing with the muffs.
As I recall, there are some other threads on the Neutra Salt system. I also looked into that option when I had my Funship docked at a marina for the summer as I wasn't able to flush the outdrive with the muffs. In the end, I ended up flushing the block by running Salt-Away using the hose connector.

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2002 Funship 214
VP 5.7 GX Si
2003 Tahoe

Jafo,
I am a Fresh water boater with open cooling. I did drain after nearly every use my first season. I realized quickly that with the MPD, I was also draining the water pump, thus leaving it dry for the next start. After less than one season before the raw water pump failed, I stopped draining unless flushing after changing bodies of water, or prior to filling with AF in the fall. Hope that helps!

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.

Thanks guys I definitely have my answer! Priceless information thanks for your help and one day I wish I can help others as you have done for me. This forum is the greatest thing since sliced bread!

As long as you flush with freshwater and no cold temps are forecast, you are fine. Probably have less corrosion with water in there than air. Mine sits in salt water 6 months out of the year, not flushed till end of season, the one thing you will want to check is the risers and manifolds at about the 3-5 season mark. Mine were starting to clog after about 5 seasons in salt. Freshwater flushing or Neutra Salt should help, but I'd still check em to be on the safe side....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I will have to figure out how to check the manifolds and risers. I know the boat runs cool when it's on.

For one thing if you start to see rust stains coming from the joint between the manifolds and the risers, that means water is leaking out and it can also be leaking into the exhaust passage which is not good. So if you see that, it's time. They way you check em is to drain the manifolds first, then remove the risers (4 bolts) and inspect. You are looking for rust build up and chunks, clogging, and rust and deterioration of the sealing surface on the manifolds and risers.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Ok thanks for the info I will definitely check that out what happens if you see a little water leaking?

since if you see it on the outside, it could be leaking on the inside, which could put water (salt) in a cylinder which is BAD. Time then to take it apart and check. Sometimes all you have to do is change the gaskets....

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Ok thanks for letting me know about the possible cylinder damage, seems like the riser is not something to just let go until the next trip.

Joe - that's true....
Mine gave out and caused some significant damage to one of my cylinders and several valves. I ended up having to rebuild the top end of the engine.

_________________
2002 Funship 214
VP 5.7 GX Si
2003 Tahoe

This is a big subject and every one his a different ways of doing things, which is not a bad thing. Thought the years, what I have learned is this and I am still ponding some things about it.

Always buy a boat with a closed cooling system, more so with salt water use. First, and of course, you don't want salt water running thought your engine. Also, even in fresh water, with an open system with the engine not running. The water level in the engine will go down, now letting air in. The air will induce rust to the engine. For the same reason, in winterizing, don't drain the raw water side of the cooling system down. Run the antifreeze though it, it will take up space letting less air in. In the past, I would just drain it down not thinking rust could be forming.

There was another post on Neutra Salt, someone said that he would use it after every use. When he had it service after 5 or 6 years of use. They told him that the manifolds likes almost new.